s 



ill!' 



'""11 




<^^^ 



LAKE GEORGE: 



Its Scenes and Characteristics, with Glimpses 
of the Olden Times. 



TO WIIICII IS ADDED SOME ACCOUNT OF TrCOXDEKOoA, WITH 
A DESCr.lPTIOX OF THE KOUTE TO 



Schroon Lake and the Adirondacks, 



"WITH AX APPENDIX, 
COXTAiyiXG XOTES OX LAKE ClIAHPLAIN. 



mW) 3lln5tetinn5, 
By B. F. De Costa. 




^ - NEW YORK: 


ANSON D 


. F. RANDOLPH, 


770 


BllOADWAY. 




1868. 



t\6^ 



Entered according to an Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by 

li. F. De Costa, 

[n tlio Clerk's Omccof the District Court of the United States, for the 
Southern District of New York. 



^^■L 



Preface 



This book is designed to convey, in a compact form, 
all tliat general readers may desire to know about 
Lake George. 

The author was originally attracted to the subject by 
its rare charms, and afterwards persuaded to throw his 
thoughts into the present shape, for the reason that a 
book of this kind was actually needed ; especially as 
Lake George has suffered so much at the hands of 
magazine Avriters and others, who have done little more 
than to transcribe popular errors. 

In preparing this work the author has sifted out the 
legends from the facts, which, in the history of this Lake, 
are quite as romantic as any fiction, and has endeavored 
to base his statements on original authorities. 

That no lake in America has greater clamis to consid- 
eration, is abundantly proved by the increasing throngs 
of visitors who assemble at the Lake every summer. 
Th:s IS i-)re-eminently " Health's cheerful haunt." The 
i:)ure air, the lovely scenes, and the numberless localities 
consecrated by song and story, form an attraction to 
which few persons could be insensible. 



IV. r K E F A C E . 

The tourist at the Lake will find this work a complete 
guide, and by following the author's suggestions he will 
gain an introduction to every point of interest. 

The concluding chapter is chiefly the work of one of 
the author's friends. It will afford all the information 
needed in regard to the new stage-route to Schroon Lake 
and the Adirondacks, which connects Lake George with 
that entire region. 

The author acknowledges his indebtedness to various 
persons for valuable suggestions and historical information ; 
and among others to Mr. John Gilmary Shea; but 
especially to Mr. William Kelbt, who has proved inde- 
fatigable in his efforts to search out and verify facts in the 
history of Lake George. 

Thanks are also due to Mr. S. K. Stoddard, of Glen's 
Falls, N. Y., for the use of valuable photographic views of 
the Lake — views which deserve to be generally known, 
and which are executed, like all the works of this enthu- 
siastic photographer, with great fidelity and skill. 

Stuyvesant Square, 

New York, 18G8. 



Contents 



Chapter T L'Overture. 

Chapter II Down the Lake. 

Chapter III. . . . The Lake in the Seasons. 

Chapter IV Among the Islands. 

Chapter Y In General. 

Chapter VI Colonial Days. 

Chapter VII Colonial Days. 

Chapter VIII. . . . Revolutionary Scenes. 

Chapter IX Ticonderoga. 

Chapter X Schroon Lake and the 

Adirondacks. 



Lake George. 



L'OVEHTURE 



CHAPTER I . 

Scones must be beautiful, which, daily vicwcti, 

Please daily, and whose novelty survives 

Long knowledge and the scrutiny of years,— Cowper. 

Situation — Extent — Glen's Falls — First View— Pros- 
pect Mountain — Clack Mountain— The Bolton View 
— Historic Associations. 

??^IRST we must speak of the situa- 
«^/tion of Lake George, which lies 
-^''at the head of a valley of the St. 
Lawrence extending southward 
through Vermont and New York, 
and reaching nearly to the Hud- 
son Eiver. It is about thirty-five 
miles long, and from one mile to 
four miles wide. The broadest 
part is found about eight miles 
from Ticonderoga, while it at- 
tains its greatest depth at a point 
four miles farther north. It is 
two hundred and forty feet above the level of Lake 
Champlain, the receptacle of its surplus water, which 




8 L ' O V E K T U R E . 

l:wo-4t«ftclred and forty feet ftbove the level of Lake 
6iiam|3lai«5 the reeei^tacle of its surplus water, whieh 
passes through a creek, and flows over two picturesque 
falls. Surrounded on all sides, except at the outlet, by 
beautiful hills, and mountains of primitive rock, it 
receives from their springs and brooks an unfailing 
supply of water that is sufficiently sparkling and pure 
to justify the name — St. Sacrament — which the lake 
originally received. 

At some remote period, this whole region was swept 
over by a great deluge Avhich left the country far and 
wide covered with loose earth and gravel, and gave to 
the lake a floor of beautiful white sand. This, in 
connection with the crystal purity of the water, 
renders objects visible at a considerable depth. 

Only a small portion of the lake is seen at a single 
view. There is no broad and striking expanse of wa- 
ter. This lake (like Como and Windermere) assumes 
more of the character of a noble river flanked by high- 
lands. Winding sweetly on its way among the ver- 
dant hills, it gradually unfolds its wealth of beauty, 
surprising and delighting the tourist at every advance 
by some new and exquisite scene. 

In approaching the lake from Albany, the tourist 
takes the Saratoga railroad, and, passing north, alights 
at Moreau station, whence he goes on fourteen miles 
by coach, or else he continues on to AVhitehall to take 
tlie steamer for Ticonderoga, and approaches the lake 
from the north. Most persons, however, prefer the 



L ' O V E K T U R E . 9 

round trip, thus going by one route and returning by 
the other. 

In taking the first-mentioned route, the traveller will 
do well to secure a seat upon the top of the coach, and 
thus be the better prepared to get the full benefit of 
the journey. The first four miles take him over a 
somewhat soft and hilly read to the thriving village of 
Glen's Falls, leaving Fort Edward in the distance on 
the right. Descending the hill at that place, a full 
view of the Falls of the Hudson bursts upon the sight. 
The river makes a descent of about sixty feet, in a 
succession of falls. When the stream is full the sight 
is magnificient and one that well repays the trouble 
of a journey. The bed and walls of the river are 
composed of blue, fossilifercus limestone, and the 
scenery is bold and striking. The admirers of Cooper 
must not fail to explore the falls and visit the cave 
under the rocks below, where the novelist lays the most 
thrilling scenes depicted in The Last of the Mohicans. 
It was in this cave that Hayv. ard and Cora found ref- 
uge ; where David struck his pitch-pipe, and sang the 
" Isle of "White " to the chiming of the music of the 
falls. 

Leaving Glen's Falls, the coach rolls on through a 
beautiful undulating region, whose scenery cannot fail 
to charm the eye. Soon after leaving Glen's Falls, 
French Mountain rises to view ; and, after passing the 
Notch, at about three miles from the lake, is seen tlie 
monument to Colonel Williams, v,ho was killed in the 



lO 



L OVERTURE. 



Battle of Lake George, foiiglit on this spot, Sept. 8, 
1755. This monument was erected by the Ahimni 
of WiUiams College, upon the rough boulder upon 
which, it is said, Williams stood when he received his 
death-wound.^ A little further on may be seen " Bloody 
Pond," where Baron Dieskau's troops halted after 




BLOODY POND. 



their defeat, and where, at sunset, they were again at- 
tacked, and routed with much slaughter, and, it is said, 
mingled their blood with the water of tliis shallow 
pond, which in the season is covered with beautiful 
white lilies. 



(1) — Col. William;? was buried near where lie fell. His f^rave was 
opened about thirty years ago, and not long since his pkuU was in the 
possession of a physician in youth Carolina. 



L O V E K T U K E . II 

About half a mile from the village of Caldwell, the 
south, or upper end of Lake George, comes in sight, 
glittermg among the verdant hills like a sea of glass. 
This view is one of extreme beauty, jet in the course 
of his rambles down the lake, the traveller will 
obtain others that are finer. 

In order to obtain an extended view of the lake, it 
is necessary to climb some one of the mountains on the 
border. A fine view may be had from the eminence 
called Rattlesnake Cobble, which rises south of 
the village of Caldwell. A mountain road leaves the 
highway opposite the Fort William Henry Hotel, and 
winds around the base of the mountain, through a fine 
wood, enabling the tourist to walk easily half way up 
the ascent. lie then leaves the road and moves 
directl}^ toward the summit, and, in the absence of a 
path, climbs over fallen trees, ledges and loose rocks, 
which task a strong man's strength. On the top of 
the Cobble there is an open space in the w^ocds, which 
forms a beautiful out-look upon the lake. Here the 
village of Caldwell is seen directly below our feet, 
while half of the lake, dotted with green isles, and 
fenced in by mountains, stretches away before the 
sight until lost in the haze, out of which Black Moun- 
tain looms, aj^parently barring the way. The view 
from this point is one that delights the eye ; and 
though the neighboring and much loftier Prospect 
Mountain, with its beaten i:)ath, is oftener climbed, it 
can afford no such satisfactory view of the lake. The 



12 L ' O V E R T U 11 E . 

glim2:)se gained from that mountain may be far more 
grand, but it is certainly not superior in beauty. In- 
deed, at the present time, the view from the wpcx of 
Prospect Mountain is wholly obstructed by the trees. 
It is found, when reached, to be a place 

" Where to the north, pine trees in prospect ri.se; 
Where to the east, pine trees assail the skies; 
Where to the west, pine trees obstruct the view: 
Where to the south, pine trees forever grew! " 

In fact the climber sees nothing else. Yet, by de- 
scending a few rods, he will find an opening where 
lie may get a tolerable glimpse of the country towards 
the east iand south. 

Three hours will suffice for the trip up Cobble Hill, 
which may be safely achieved, notwithstanding the 
stories that he will hear about snakes ; while to 
ascend Prospect Mountain will ordinarily consume the 
greater portion of a day. But no one should leave the 
lake without ascending both. Nor would it be alto- 
gether unprofitable to climb the French Mountain, on 
the east side of the lake, above which the traveller 
first beholds the morning sun. 

A still more lovely view may be had at Bolton, ten 
miles down the lake, from an eminence also called 
Prospect Mountain, where the air 

" l^irably and swcetl}'^ recommends itself 
Unto our gentle senses." 

The Bolton view has a wider range, and is more com- 



L o V i: r. T U K E . 



13 



prehensive than that at the head of the lake, in addition 
to being more attractive. Here we take our second 
lesson in the geography of the lake, and, overlooking 
the Narrows, (which in early times was called the First 
Narrows, to distinguish them from the NarroAvs at the 
outlet), we get a glimpse of the region beyond. 
Seen from this point, the lake loses the crowded 
aspect which it wears while we are upon its shores, 
and the islands appear reduced in size. Black Moun- 
tain, however, affords a view which, for grandeur, 
eclipses everything else. 

About three miles north of Fourteen Mile Island, 
in a small clearing, stands an old house used in the 
winter by the Black Mountain lumbermen. This is 
the point of departure in making the ascent. Taking 
one of the rough roads used in winter in liauling logs, 
we follow it for about three miles, which brings us 
to a pond, situated a mile from the summit, and which 
in the summer is flecked with lilies. At this point we 
turn to the left and clamber on as best we may. Up 
we go along the dry bed of winter torrents, and over 
loose debris and huge rocks magnificently embossed 
with rich lichens. Here and there in a crevice may 
be found a spring at which we can quench our thirst, 
while beautiful harebells delight the eye. This 
mountain does not afford any opportunities for the 
study of Alpine flora, though the botanist may occa- 
sionally find the sand- wort ( Greenlandica arcnaria), 
which bears a pretty white flower worth preserving. 



14 L OVEKTUllE. 

This, like all mountains, is very deceptive. In a 
transparent atmosphere its summit does iiot appear 
very distant, yet as we go forward, it recedes and 
beckons us on and up, while occasionally w^e lose sight 
of it altogether. It is very provoking sometimes to 
be obliged to scramble for two hours over the rocks 
to reach a point that you expected to reach in a few 
minutes. Yet the journey is not without its rich 
compensations, and, as we mount up, we find our- 
selves slowly rising into a new world. Finally, we 
stand on the bare and desolate peak of Black Moun- 
tain, where the eye sweeps the entire horizon, and sees 
the green hills everywhere rolling like billows, while 
the lake reposes in the vale below, mute and 
motionless as a silver sea. This is a place eminently 
calculated to inspire lof^y sentiments. With the poet 
one may say : 

"There as thou standst 
The haunts of men below thee, and around 
The mountain summits, thy expanding heart 
Eliall feel a kindred Avith that loftier ■vvorJd 
To which thou art translated, and partake 
The enlargement of thy vision." 

Here, hoAvever, few persons rise in their inspiration 
above the need of bodily nourishment, as the remains 
cf numerous bottles abundantly testify. 

From this elevation the scene is one of great variety. 
Besides the lake at our feet, Chamjilain stretches away 
toward the north ; in the south may be seen the 
Hudson, glittering like a silver thread ; hi the north- 



L OVEKTURE. I5 

west are the Adirondacks ; and away iu the east arc 
the Green Mountains, with Camel's Hump. It is 
interesting to watch the steamer Minnehaha runnir.g 
up the lake from Ticonderoga, winding her vray 
among the numerous islands, and leaving a trail cf 
light on the surface of the calm lake. 

In visiting Black Mountain, strangers should take 
a guide and start early in the day, or else prepare to 
spend the night somewhere on its side. 

But, although so much has been said of the moun- 
tain-views, we must not forget the beautiful walks that 
a]*e to be found among the wild old woods on the hill- 
sides and along the shores. In the language of 
another, we may say: 

" Isor is the stately scene without 

Its sweet, secluded treasures, 
Where hearts that there the crowd may liud 

Their own exclusive pleasures; 
Deep, charming shades for pensive thought, 

The hours to Avear away in, 
And vaulted isles of whispering pines, 

For lover's feet to stray in." 

Long ago the beauty of Lake George began to 
attract the attention of travellers, many cf v/hom were 
foreigners. It yras even then the general oiDinion, 
that no lake exceeded it in loveliness. By some visi- 
tors, it was called '• the Como of America," and others 
compared it to the lakes of Westmoreland and some 
cf the Scotch lakes ; wliile all agreed that it must 
eventually become a popular resort. The prediction 



l6 l'O Y E Tl T UPt E. 

has been more than justified by the thousands of 
tourists who now annually visit Lake George. 

This lake is adorned with no ivied ruin or lordly 
hall. Besides Caldwell, (a summer convenience, 
more for use than ornament,) there are only four 
villages, — Bolton, Dresden, Hague, and Ticon- 
deroga. Here and there the boatman finds a farm- 
house or cottage, but he may sail for miles among 
certain districts, without seeing a sign of human life. 
And yet there is no lack of antiquity. Among the 
lofty hills he will find peaks that were laid bare before 
Eden bloomed, towers more ancient than Babel, and 
nature-carved crags that rejoiced in the sun's warm 
rays before Memnon began to sing. 

As with the scenery so with its historic associations, 
in which no lake can be richer. There is hardly a 
spot, cither on land or water, that has not been the 
scene of some warlike exploit or heroic adventure. 
Forming in colonial times a part of the great highway 
between Canada and New York, it was often the 
chosen battle-ground of the French and English, who, 
in connection with hostile Indian tribes, waged a bar- 
barous war on each other. Often was the lake trav- 
ersed by the soldier, the savage, and the monk. Hither 
came the brave Montcalm, the pious Father Joques, 
the good Roubaud, Eigaud, St. Ours, and Courcelles, 
together with Abercrombie, Howe, Lord Amherst, 
Putnam, Rogers the Ranger, Johnson, Williams, 
" King Ilcndrick," and Stark, and a multitude of 



LOVERTUKE, 



17 



Others who are invested with historic renown. The 
story of their deeds contains all the elements of ro- 
mance. Cooper in his novels has invested the lake 
with a thrilling interest, but the literal history is 
ofttimes stranger than the overwrought fiction. 

It is also interesting to be reminded of the fact that 
the French pushed their discoveries in this direction 
in early times, and that Champlain, who heard of the 
Hudson River through the Indians, started on his way 
thither, intending to go by Lake St. Sacrament, about 
the same time that Hendrick Hudson was sailing up 
to Albany, which was four years before the Dutch 
took possession of New York, and eleven years before 
the English Puritans landed on Plymouth Rock. 

In times of peace the Indian hunted the deer which 
abounded in the woods, or, gliding over the waters in 
his canoe, darted his spear at the trout. But when 
the signal for war was given, the lake became alive 
with armed men all eager for the fight. Then those 
sweet and tranquil scenes upon which the tourist now 
delights to gaze were obscured by the smoke of battle, 
and the solitudes echoed with the rattle of the musket 
and the boom of artillery. Rogers and Putnam both 
traversed the lake, with cannon mounted on their 
boats, which scattered the Indian canoes in fragments 
on the water ; and in the winter they traversed the ice 
on skates, and, after the fight, carried their wounded 
home on sleds. The imaginative mind can easily 
re-animate the lake with the splendid armies of 



l8 L O V E R T U R E. 

Abercrombie, Amherst, and Montcalm, numbering 
from nine to sixteen thousand men each, and sailing 
in boats and batteaux, marshalled in beautiful array, 
with all the pomp and circumstance of war. How 
peaceful it appears to-day at the head of the lake 
around tlie ruins of Fort George, and the gi-ass-grown 




FORT GEORGE 



site of Fort William Henry ! Yet here, through long 
and bloody wars, the cross of St. George waved 
defiance to the Lilies of France. Here forts and pali- 
sades went up, opposing trenches were dug, and mines 
S23rung. Here the iron-mouthed cannon from the 
narrow embrasures of Munro, belched out death by 
day, while the huge bomb with its fiery trail came 
shrieking from the camp of Montcalm by night. 
Here, too, was the scene of the massacre of the Eng- 
lish by the French Indians of St. Francis. But now 



L O V E K T U K E . 



19 



all signs of bloodshed and strife liave passed away. 
The hapless victims are forever at rest ; and the de- 
scendants of the Abenakis, from the ancient village of 
their fathers, now unconsciously pitch their summer 
tents, and pursue the harmless trade of the basket- 
maker, over their sfraves. 




DOWN T HE LAKE 



CHAPTER II. 



The crowded steamer leaves the village pier; 
Its paddles splash; it flaunts a gaudy flag: 
And brazen music loudens into noise. 

The Start — French Mountain — The Islands — Bolton 

— The Narrows — Tongue Mountain — Black Moun- 
tain — Buck Mountain — Sabbath Day Point — Hague 

— Friends' Point — Anthony's Nose — Rogers' Slide 

— Prisoners' Island. 

HE tourist, in order to view the 
lake, will find it necessary to 
pass over its entire length in 
the steamer, which runs regu- 
larly to Ticonderoga, going 
down in the morning and 
returning in the afternoon. 

Leaving the little quay at 
Fort William Henry Hotel, the 
Minnehaha glides out into the 
centre of the lake, leaving 
behind a long line of foam. 
The high, wood-crowned moun- 
tain on the east side is 
French Mountain. It terminates in the beautiful 
point of land called Plum's Point. Two miles down 




DOWN THE LAKE. 21 

the lake, on the west side, close to the shore, is the 
first island which we pass. It is called Tea Island, 




TEA ISLAND. 

and is a perfect gem. In 1828 a "Tea-house"^ was 
kept there to accommodate visitors, which fact accounts 
for its j^resent name. 

About two miles farther on is Diamond Island. An 
account of its early use by Burgoyne, as a military 
depot, and of the defeat of Colonel Brown at this 
place, will be found in the chapters relating to the 
history of the lake. When the country was first set- 
tled, the island was overrun with rattlesnakes. One 
writer says, that the people seldom ventured upon it. 
Anbury- writes, on very good authority, that, before the 
Revolution, " A batteau, in sailing up the lake, over- 
set near Diamond Island, and, among other things, it 

(1) — Stewart's Trav., Vol. i., p. 121. 

(2) — Anbury's Trav., Vol. i., p. 385. 



22 D O AV N THE LAKE. 

contained several hogs, which swam to the shore, as 
did the Canadians, who were rowing. The latter, 
apprehensive of the rattlesnakes, climbed up trees for 
the night, and the next morning, observing a batteau, 
they hailed the people in it who took them in." It is 
called Diamond Island on account of the beautiful 
quartz crystals obtained here. Silliman, who was here 
in 1819, says : " The crystals are hardly surpassed by 
any in the world for transparency and perfection of 
form. They are, as usual, the six-sided prism, and are 
frequently terminated at both ends by six-sided pyra- 
mids. These last, of course, must be found loose, or, 
at least, not adhering to any rock ; those which are 
l)roken off have necessarily only one pyramid."^ 

Writing at this time, he says : " There is a solitary 
miserable cottage upon this island, from which we saw 
the smoke ascending ; — a w^oman who lives in it, is 
facetiously called, ^ The Lady of the Lake,' but, prob- 
ably, no Malcolm Grceme and Ehoderick Dhu w^ill 
ever contend on her account."^ 

In 1821 he visited the lake again, when he remarks 
of Diamond Island : '' This small island, scarcely cov- 
ering the area of a common kitchen garden, is inhab- 
ited by a family who occupy a small but comfortable 
house, and constantly explore the rocks for crystals. 
. . . At present, they are scarcely obtained at all, 
except by breaking the rocks."^ 

(1) — Silliman'6Trav.,p. ICS. (2)-ib. p. 152. (3) — ib. p. IGS. 



DOWN THE LAKE. 23 

Near by, on the shore, there was a place called 
Diamond Point, where crystals were also obtained by 
the same man — an Indian named Samj^son Paul. 
It is said that he once killed an immense panther 
at this place, as the animal was coming out of the lake 
benumbed with cold. The little bay beyond this 
point is Montcalm's Bay. 

Beyond Plum's Point is Dunham's Bay, where 
some say Colonel Brown landed after his defeat at 
Diamond Island. One mile beyond, are the Three 
Sisters, though properly there are only two islands ; 
and a little way east is Long Island, where Rogers 
camped one winter's night in 1758, after having been 
defeated by the French. In the bay, farther to the 
right, is the hotel called " Trout Pavilion," one resort 
of those who are fond of fine fish. As we pass on to 
Bolton, which is ten miles from Caldwell, we leave on 
the west side the islands called The Tln-ee Brothers. 
To the right is a large and heavily wooded island, 
called Dome Island, on account of its resemblance to 
a dome. 

West of Dome Island is Recluse Island,^ a lovely 
spot, commanding a fine view of the lake in all direc- 
tions. This island is owned by Rufus Wattles, Esq., 



(1) — This is the island which, in January of 1838, was reported as 
sunk by an earthquake, and which, consequently, became so famous 
in the newspapers. It stands to-day as fair as ever, and will last as 
long as the lake, it being nothing less than a part of the lake's bed, 
which was lifted up into its present position during that dim antiq- 
uity to Avhich the formation of this region must be referred. 



24 I) O W N T II E LAKE. 

of New York, who has here erected the only privnte 
residence yet to be found on the islands of the lake. 
It is a neat cottage, embowered among the trees, where 
a genial hospitality is gracefally dispensed. 

On the sides of this island, facing the Narrows and 
Bolton, are the remains of some earthworks, which 
v/ere probably erected by Abercrombie's forces, who, 
in 17o8, were stationed on the lake. Near by, is an 
islet, often called Sloop Island, or Ship Island. In 
sailing down the lake, it appears in the distance like a 
small ship imder sail. In 1851, it was visited by 
Parodi, the famous singer, who erected a rude cross, 
which still remains. Hence the island has sometimes 
been called by her name. 

The steamer now heads in for the landing at Bolton, 
three-fourths of a mile distant, and one of the most 
charming parts of the lake. After touching at the 
landing, the Minnehaha starts for Fourteen Mile Isl- 
and, which is four miles from Bolton, and located at 
the foot of Shelving Rock, on the right of the entrance 
to the Narrows. As we pass towards tliis spot, we 
leave Green Island on the left, beyond which, in the 
mouth of Northwest Bay, is the spot called, (wuth 
little taste or reason,) Hog Island. Directly in front 
is that beautiful elevation, called, from its shape. 
Tongue Mountain, and which, for a distance of six 
miles, forms the east side of Northwest Bay. As we 
approach Fourteen Mile Island, we get a just view of 
the Narrows. At this point the sides of the lake 



DOWN THE LAKE, 



25 



approach each other, and the space between is nearly 
filled up with clusters of islands, of rarious shapes and 
sizes, so that the steamer is obliged to wind carefully 
At a distance no passage can be seen, and 



through 





■«k^. 



T II E X A R K O W S . 

the islands, covered with foliage, resemble a tongue of 
land, stretching across the lake, forming what often 
appears like an impassible barrier. At first, we look 
in vain for islands and a passage through. So it was 
on our last trip down the lake ; but, on a nearer 
approach, the passage v/idened, and the little rifts in 
the woods, here and there, opened like celestial gates. 
Then 

" The shaggy mound no longer stood 
Emerging from entangled wood ; 
But, -vvavc-encircled, seemed to float, 
Like castle girdled with its moat: 
Yet broader floods extending still 
Divide them from the parent hill. 
Till each, retiring, claims to be. 
An islet in an inland sea." 

But before going through, we stop at the landing, 
and have time to observe the beauty of the place and 



26 DOWN THE LAKE. 

its rare adaptation as a summer resort. This site has 
advantages that are found nowhere else on the lake, 
and travellers who have the time will find it much to 
their advantage to spend some days here. Note also 
the group of islands called the Hen and Chickens, 
which lie near the east shore. On the west side, close 
by Tongue Mountain, is an island, the character of 
which may be gathered from its name, — Flea Island. 
In passing through the Narrows, we find ourselves 
in the very heart of the lake, surrounded on every 
side by scenes that delight the eye. Black Mountain 
looms up directly before us. According to baromet- 
rical calculations, it is 2,878 feet above tide water, and 
is the highest mountain near the lake. It is banded 
around its sides with alternate lines of maple, pine, and 
birch, which thin out by degrees as they rise, until, 
two-thirds of the way up, the bare rocks chiefly ap- 
pear, sentinelled here and there by a few dead trunks, 
while the top of the mountain stands out completely 
divested of verdure, and dark, threatening, and bare. 
The view from the summit is one of much grand- 
cur. It is readily ascended with the aid of a 
guide. Around its scarred and rifted sides, often 
swept by fire, we see the work of time and weather, 
which 

•' Down the lake in masses, threw 
Crags, knolls, and mounds confusedly hurl'd. 
The fragments of an earlier world." 

The next islands to be noted are the Hatchet Isl- 
ands, so called, from an Indian hatchet once found 



D O AV N THE LAKE. 27 

there. On the west, in the curyecl side of Tongue 
Mountain, close to the shore, nearer than the steamer 
usually goes, is a double echo, the sounds made there 
being repeated from two distinct quarters at the same 
instant. 

On the west shore, farther on, is Half- Way Island, 
which marks the centre of the lake, being half way to 
Ticonderoga. Beyond Black Mountain, is next seen 
the Sugar Loaf, a spur of the former mountain, which 
now loses the symmetrical and imposmg aspect that it 
23resented from the Narrovrs, and seems to sink down, 
at the same time taking the appearance of a formless 
mass of rock, scooped out into deep ravines. Some 
persons fancy that in this vicinity they are able to 
detect a form in the north part of the mountain, which 
resembles an elephant's back, and hence it has some- 
times been called Elephant's Eidge. Along the base 
of this mountain, may be seen the Floating Battery 
Islands. Opposite the Eidge is Harbor Island, the 
scene of Montcalm's first skirmish with the Encflish. 
Next to it is Yicar's Island. On the right appears the 
little hamlet of Dresden, nestling in Bosom Bay. On 
the west is Buck Mountain, about eight hundred feet 
high, the side of which towards the Lake forms a sort 
of palisade. At one time, the deer were extremely 
plenty in this entire neighborhood. In 1802, Dr. 
Dwight, the grave divine, joined in the hunt, and cap- 
tured a deer in the lake. The deer are usually hunted 
by dogs and driven into the water, where they are 



28 D O 'SV N THE LAKE. 

captured or killed. Buck Mountain received its name 
from the fact, that a buck, pursued by a hunter and 
his dogs, leaped from the precipice overhanging the 
lake, and was literally impaled alive on a sharp-pointed 
tree projecting below. Silliman, when on the lake, 
saw the man who drove the buck. Chasing the ani- 
mal out of the woods, toward the open place which 
looks down at such a tremendous height upon the lake 
below, he believed that, with the help of his hounds, 
he was sure of his game. From afar, 

" The hunter marked that mouutain high, 
The lone lake's western boundarj', 
And deemed the stag must turn to bay. 
Where that huge rampart barred the way : 
Already, glorying in his prize, 
Measured his antlers with his eyes; 
For the death-wound and dcath-halloo, 
Muster'd his breath, his whinyard drew." 

But he was disappointed at last, for the poor beast, 
now driven to desperation, had less fear of the preci- 
jHce than of the dogs, and, reaching the brink, sprang 
forward into the air, and descending, met his cruel 
fate upon a sharp tree below. 

As w^e sail on. Black Mountain rises behind us, and 
begins to assume the symmetry and commanding 
height which it completely loses while the traveller is 
sailing under its brow. The next place, on the west 
side of the lake, is the projecting tongue of land 
known as Sabbath Day Point. This name was given 
to the spot at an early day, though for what reason it 



DOAYN THE LAKE. 29 

is impossible now to say. Perhaps it was on account 
of the general aspect of peace which usually prevails. 
Magazine writers and others^ say, that the place was 
so called by Abercrombie, in 1758, when, as they aver, 
he halted here on Sunday morning to refresh his 
troops, before jDroceeding to attack Ticonderoga. But 
a reference to the almanac shows that it was on a 
Wednesday, and not on a Sunday, that he landed here. 
Nor, as others say, was the name given by Lord Am- 
herst the year following. In fact, the French officers 
of Montcalm's army, in their official reports, dated 
one year before Abercrombie came to the lake, 
call the place Sabbath Day Point, a name by which it 
was at that time generally known by both the French 
and English. 



''0^mi 



SABBATH DAY POINT. 

During the Revolution, it is said, a fight occurred 
here between some Mihtia and a party of Tories and 
Indians. The Americans gained the victory, the 
killed and wounded of the enemy numbering about 
forty. The view uj^ the lake from this point is one 
of rare beauty. And look — Black Mountain is now 

(1) — See Lossing's Field Book, Vol, i. 



30 D O W N T II E L A K !•: . 

fully itself once more, lifting up its dark, but grace- 
fully defined peak in sliarj^ contrast with tlie deep 
blue sky, wliile all the surrounding parts of the land- 
scape, which form the accessories of this mountain, sink 
into their true and subordinate positions. Throughout 
the entire central portion of the lake. Black Mountain 
seems to travel with the tourist, and presents itself 
in the midst of every new view. The student of 
nature will be amply repaid by watching its various 
aspects. 

The point opposite Sabbath Day Point, is Bluff 
Point, beyond which, on the east shore, are the Odell 
Islands ; while on the west, about the same distance, 
may be seen the Scotch Bonnet. Two miles to the 
north of the Bonnet, is the little village of Hague, 
where the steamer stops for passengers. Sailing on 
from Hague, we pass Cook's Island and then Friends' 
Point, where two scouting-parties belonging to the 
same force, once met, and in the darkness of the night 
came near firing upon one another. Two miles be- 
low Hague, on the east shore, will be seen Anthony's 
Nose, a bold and lofty hill, with rocks jutting out into 
the lake. There are three other places in the State 
that bear the name of the Old Saint, who, evidently, 
for some reason not so clear, was a great favorite. 
One is on the Hudson, forming the southern limit of 
the Highlands, and two others are situated on the 
Mohawk. At this point may be found the deejiest 
water of the lake. A fisherman in his boat once 



D O AV N THE LAKE. 3 1 

narrowly escaped drowning in the huge wavco caused 
by a rock that fell into the lake from Anthony's Nose. 
In the hill opposite, the guides used to point out a 
dozen mortars in a solid rock, which, they avered, were 
made by the Indians for the purpose of pounding corn. 
Two miles farther down, on the west shore, is 
Rogers' Slide. This is a steep, smooth precipice of 




ROGERS' SLIDE. 



naked rock, incliijing at a sharp angle, in the face of 
the mountain. It forms a prominent object from the 
lake, and, in 1757, was called " Bald Mountain," by 
Father Roubaud, in his Relation. At the foot of the 
Slide the water is quite deep. It received its present 
name, it is alleged, from the fact that Rogers the 
Ranger w^as once surprised here by the Indians, and 
made his escape on the ice. The latest version of the 
story runs somewhat as follows : 

In the winter of 1758 Rogers was surprised by 
some Indians, while out on a scout, and put to flight. 



32 DOWN THE LAKE. 

Shod with snow-shoes, he ehicled pursuit, and, coming 
to this spot, saved his lixc by. an ingenious device. 
Descending the mountain, until he came to the edge 
of the precipice, he threw his haversack down upon 
the ice, unbuckled his snow-shoes, and, without mov- 
ing them, turned himself about, and put them on his 
feet again, with the heels in front. He then retreated 
by the way he came, until he reached the southern 
brow of the rock, where he found a ravine, down 
which he escaped, and sped away on the ice towards 
Fort George. The Indians, in the meanwhile, came 
to the spot, and, seeing the double set of tracks, con- 
cluded that they were made by two persons who had 
thrown themselves down the cliff, rather than to fall 
into their hands. But, on looking about, they saw 
Rogers disappearing in the distance on the ice, and, 
believing that he slid down the cliff, concluded that he 
was under the special protection of the Great Spirit. 
They then gave up the chase. 

So runs the latest version of the story. But, in 
1802, the clifi* was called Rogers' Rock, not Rogers' 
Slide. The best account Dwight could get at that 
time, was, that he escaped down a valley, and that the 
Indians supposed he fell off the precipice. Dwight's 
guide told him that one Colonel Cochrane and several 
others escaped in the same way, and that years after, 
when surveying the land, he showed his companions a 
bullet, fired at him on this occasion, lodged in a tree. 
The earliest account, however, simply says, that there 



L>ONVN THE LAKE. 33 

was a tradition that a man once escaped from the 
savages in some such way. But what is worse, 
Rogers, who is very prolix where his own adventures 
are concerned, says nothing whatever about the 
affair in his journal ; which most persons will accept 
as good proof that it never occurred. 

Rogers was a New-Hampshire man, whose brutal 
character is illustrated by his deeds. After the French 
war he went to England, and while there dined in 
company with some officers, who agreed, over their 
wine, that the person who could tell the greatest 
falsehood should have his bill paid by the others. 
^Ylien Rogers' turn came, he told the company that 
liis father was shot by a friend, who mistook him for a 
bear ; that his mother was followed in the snow, on a 
stormy day, by a hunter, who supposed he was follow- 
ing the tracks of a panther : and that when a small 
boy, he travelled on foot in the woods, ten miles, with 
birch brooms on his shoulder, having nothing to guide 
him but marks on the trees. Judgment was at once 
uproariously given in his favor by the company.^ 

Roarers returned to America when the Revolution 
broke out, but was suspected by "Washington as a 
spy, and could get no employment. He eventually 
obtained a commission from the English commander, 
and raised a company of Tory Rangers, which, on 
Long Island and elsewhere, proved more or less a 
scourge. He was proscribed by the New-Hampshire 

(1)— New Hampshire Coll., Vol. i., p. 240. 



34 DOWN THE LAKE. 

Legislature, who decreed a divorce for his wife. 
Neither the time, place, nor the manner of his death 
is given. 

But while thus dwelling upon the story of Rogers, 
we have been nearing the foot of the lake, whose 
waters, at this point, begin to shoal. It decreases 
in depth until the outlet is reached, where the 
water, now somewhat discolored by clay, passes 
through a narrow creek, and tumbles over the falls, 
on its way to Lake Champlain, making a descent of 
about two hundred and forty feet in the course of four 
miles. At this end of the lake there is nothing of 
special interest to detain the traveller, before proceed- 
ing to Ticonderoga ; though he will, of course, notice 
the little island called Prisoners' Island, where, tra- 
dition says, the French sometimes confined their pris- 
oners, and from which a party once escaped by wading 
across a shallow place to the main land, on the west 
shore. 

The French called this island Isle au Mouton} It 
jDrobably made a convenient sheep-fold. Schuyler 
and Martin, who, in 1758, were returned by Aber- 
crombie as Montcalm's prisoners on the expiration of 
their parole, were received on this island by the 
advanced guard of the French. 

(1) — Col. Doc, Vol. X. p. 759. 



THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS 



C II A r T E R III. 

O me, my pleasant rambles by the lake, 

My sweet, mild, fresh three-quarters of a year, 

My one Oasis in the dust and drouth 

Of city life. — Tennyson, 

Spring — Summer — Boating — Echoes — Progressive 
Change — Sunrise — Sunset — Autumn — Black Moun- 
tain — Jefferson — Indian Summer — Winter — Ice. 



*^Q^ 



^i-^~^yh^y- 



^^JmM. 



HOEVER desires to know Lake 
Georsre thorouffhlv, will find it 
necessary to study all its varied 
moods, which are as changeable 
t^^ as the sky. Yet it has certain 

general characteristics in each of the four 
seasons. The early spring is, perhaps, 
the least interesting season of the year. 
When the snow disappears, the ravages 
of winter become apparent. The woods 
everywhere have a black and sodden look. The 
caks, which retain their dusky foliage much longer 
than the other trees, and part with their leaves 
as reluctantly as the belle loses her charms, are 
now completely stripped ; and the woods, except 




6 THE I- A K E IX T HE SEASONS. 



where the evergreen pine appears, wear an aspect 
of extreme poverty and desolation. The action of the 
frost is revealed even on the rocks. 

Eventually, the warm-breathing air of the south 
comes, and the vegetable kingdom feels the thrill of a 
new life. Imperceptibly, the tone of the landscape is 
changed, and the hills, and islands, and shores, are 
suffused with a pale, delicate emerald green. At this 
time, a day of genial, sunny weather causes a sudden 
growth of verdure that will transform the whole lake. 
Then the water, which previously had reflected the 
leafless trees and cheerless hills, is lighted up with 
beauty, and in the sunlight gleams with the richest 
hues. Joy and gladness then seem to fill the very 
air. At this period the showers on the lake are very 
fine. 

But spring soon gives away to summer, which 
rapidly shoots up into its green prime, when the 
country is thronged with visitors from every part of 
the United States. Lake George at this time pre- 
sents the most lovely picture. The majority of tran- 
sient visitors congregate at Caldwell, and here, all day 
long, the water is covered with boats containing parties 
engaged in fishing, rowing, and in excursions to the 
islands. We need not go abroad on Italian lakes, or 
sail in Venetian gondolas, in order to witness pictur- 
esque scenes. Often on Lake George the boating 
parties, arrayed in bright costumes, reflected on the 
waves, with the accessories of green hills, blue skies, 



THE LAKE IX THE SEASONS. 37 

and siDarkling water, form scenes that never fail to 
delight the artist's eye. There is no end of song and 
merry-making. Under the shadow of French Moun- 
tain, from the summit of which, in the spring of 1757, 
Rigaud reconnoitred Fort William Henry, will be 
found a remarkably good echo, which, in a calm day, 
will repeat with great fidelity all the variations of the 
bugle or flute. Visitors often row to this spot. It 
is easily found, and then 

• • • " Many a Jaugli and many a shout 
The busy echoes toss about, 
Till joyous with the merry rout 
The hills are pealing." 

To describe a day of summer-time here, would be a 
difficult task. From dawn until evening the lake is 
the subject of progressive change, and is continually 
going on from glory to glory. Sunrise often presents 
a scene of rare beauty. In the course of the night the 
mist accumulates among the hills and on the surface 
of the lake, and the first act of Old Sol, is to drive it 
away. This is a gradual work. As a range of moun- 
tains extends along the east side of the lake, we first 
view the light in the sky overhead, which gleams with 
red and gold. But as the day advances, French 
Mountain doffs its nightcap, and the sunbeams, burst- 
ing through the tree-tops, charge down the declivities 
upon the fleecy fog, like angelic spears. Unable to 
withstand the assault, the misty battalions break and 
fly. In due time the work is thoroughly finished, and 



38 THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. 

" Now llarninpf up the heavens, ll:c potent sun 
Melts into limpid air the liigh-raited clouds 
And morning logs, that hovered round the hills 
In parti-colored bands; till wide unveiled 
The face of Nature shines, from where eartli seems 
Far-strctchcd around to meet the bending sphere." 

As the day wears on, it is delightful to lounge 
around the lake, watching its changeful mood, as its 
surface is rippled by the wind, or shaded by some 
passing cloud. About noon the air will often be 
charged with a fine haze, which gives greater apparent 
depth and distance to the view. There is then a 
wide scope for the imagination, and, under its influence, 
the mountains seem to increase in height, presenting 
at the same time a softer outline. Everything in the 
distance is seen through a strongly refracted light, 
so that it is often difficult to tell where shore and water 
meet ; while some of the little transfigured islands 
appear as if rising towards the sky. To the landscape 
painter, the lake at such times affords a rare study. 
A gentle breeze, however, is always sufficient to dispel 
these effects. Late in the afternoon, the sun swings 
around on the west side of the lake, when the hills 
gradually extend their shadows along its entire length, 
except at Bolton, ten miles down, where the range 
descends, and allows the King of Day to fling his 
beams with full force across the water upon the oppo- 
site mountains. The sunset is enjoyed to its fullest 
extent by the passengers who come up the lake at this 
hour from Ticonderoga ; while the view, looking down 



THE LAKE IX THE SEASONS. 39 

from Caldwell, is much finer than in the morning. 
There lie the mountains towards the north, eight miles 
distant, vested in purple, each rock and crag a gleam- 
ing gem, while the roseate sky, barred with rich purple 
and green, is mirrored on the smooth lake, which, 
when jDloughed by the homeward-bound Minnehaha, 
glitters like a sea of gold. 

Erelong the sun sinks to rest, and the splendor 
fades, leaving only a deep purple glow, which gives 
Avay to a black pall. Before it is too late, however, 
the visitor must take a boat and row out into the 
middle of the lake, to observe the richness of the 
shadows on the water, and the color of the surrounding 
hills. Then all that is unsightly is obscured, and the 
rich green of field and wood becomes wonderfully 
softened, and yet intensified, in the gloaming light, 
which is now reflected wholly from above by the 
canoi:)y of deep blue. At this time the reflection of 
the green hills gives the water a beauty that the 
artist strives in vain to convey, especially when it is 
marked by those trails of light that follow in the track 
of some belated boat or Indian canoe. But finally 
the twilight dies away, the mountains are reduced to 
dusky, indistinguishable forms, and the lake is left to 
the meek-eyed stars, which, here and there, sow a 
jewel in the wave. 

But after all that can be said about summer, autumn 
is the most beautiful portion of the year, though 
few visitors linger to enjoy its glories. At this season. 



40 THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. 

Dame Nature, like an old coquette, puts on her most 
gorgeous robes, and strives to appear young. How 
magnificent the hues ! The mountains appear all 
aflame with glory. Sunsets and rainbows appear to 
have fallen down upon them, and all their borders 
seem covered with rich Cashmere shawls. 

There is a radical difference between the American 
and European autumn. Indeed, Tacitus speaks of 
some old Germans who knew nothing at all about it. 
Autumn in England and on the continent appears 
tame, while in America it is the true carnival time. 
The splendor of our autumn is to be accounted for by 
the fact that in America we have a far greater variety 
of forest trees. In France, for instance, there are 
only about forty species that grow to the height of 
thirty feet, while in America there are no less than 
one hundred and forty. Around Lake George there 
is the usual variety, so that the hills blaze, and yet, 
like the Burning Bush, are not consumed. Here and 
there may sometimes be found only a few varieties, 
and then, as Moir says cf the English forests in 
autumn, 

" The faded woods a yelloio livery wear." 

The west side of Black Mountain appears from a 
distance to have only some maples and birches (the 
latter predominating) besides the jiines ; hence it is 
chiefly marked around its side with zones of green acd 
yellow. But elsewhere there is no lack cf color, the 



THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. 4I 

crimson and scarlet being of tlie deepest and most 
exquisite hue. Jefferson visited the lake in June, 1791, 
accompanied by Mr. Madison, while Washington was 
on a southern tour, and improved a part of his vaca- 
tion in the use of his rod and gun, at the same time 
giving some attention to natural history, a science in 
which he excelled, and w hich, but for the claims of his 
country, would probably have occupied a much larger 
portion of his life. Writing about the botany of the 
lake, he said of the trees : " Those either unknown 
or rare in Virginia, were the sugar-maple, in great 
abundance ; the silver fir, the white pine, pitcli pine, 
spruce pine, a shrub with decumbent stems which 
they call juniper, an aralea, very different from the 
mundiflora, with very large clusters of flowers, more 
thickly set on branches, of a deeper red, and a high 
pink fragrance. It is the richest shrub I have seen. 
The honeysuckle of the gardens grows wild on the 
banks of Lake George ; the paper birch, an aspen 
with a velvet leaf, a shrub willow with downy catkins, 
a wild gooseberry, and a wild cherry with a single 
fruit (not in the bunch cherry), and strawberries in 
abundance."^ 

These are some of the trees and shrubs not found in 
Virginia, but they form a small portion of the flora of 
the lake, which the philosopher admired quite as much 
as the magnificent pickerel and trout. And when the 

(1) — Jcflbrson's Works, Vol, iii. p. 2G5. 



42 THE LAKi: IN THE SEASONS. 

leaves ripen,^ the forests display every conceivable 
color. It is tlieu a rare pleasure to watch the reflec- 
tions cf the mountains on the water* Of course, the 
weather will not always serve our purpose. Cold, 
disagreeable days come, when we are fitly reminded 
of the words of Ossian : " Arise, winds of autumn, 
arise : blow along the heath ! streams of the mountain, 
rear ! roar, tempests, in the grove of my oaks ! " 

Still, there are not wanting beautiful days when the 
sky and air are in harmony with the resplendent 
hues of the forest, and when the lake appears like 
Gome sweet scene of enchantment. Then the little 
rich, russet-colored isles, nestling in the shining lake, 
look like apples of gold in pictures of silver, while the 
tall, maple-crowned hill, looming up in the distance, 
ceems a pyramid of fire. Whoever takes two or three 
of these glorious days for a trip down the lake, will 
Gtore up in the portfolio of his mind a succession of 
beautiful scenes that will last for life. 

And when autumn declines, and the magnificent 
foliage has disappeared, then comes the Indian Sum- 
mer ; though many persons unacquainted with its char- 
acteristics place it earlier in the season. It usually 
occurs about All Saints' Day, November 1st, and by 
some of the French who visited the lake it was know^n 
as the Summer of All Saints. On the continent of 
Europe it is called the Summer- Close, and in Eng- 

(1)— Tho frost has uotliiug to do with changing the color of the 
leaves in autumn. 



THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. 43 

land, Martia-mass Summer, as the peasantry look for 
it about St. Martin's Day, which falls on November 
11th. This season is marked by a reddish, hazy, 
quiet atmosphere, and a slight rise in the temperature. 
In the autumn the haze is not always seen around the 
lake. After the September and October rains the 
sky is sometimes attended by a wondrous clearness and 
depth. We may always measure the purity of the 
air by the clearness of the reflections in the water. 
Yv'hen the air is perfectly free from mist, the maple 
torch flames as brightly in the water of the lake at your 
feet as on the reeky cliflT above your head. But during 
the Indian Summer, the lake is always veiled in mist. 
Longfellow happily describes it in Evangeline : 

" Such was the advent of autumu. Thcii followed that beautiful 

eeasou 
Called by the pious Acadian peasants, the Summer of All Saints. 
Filled AAas the air with a dreamy and magical light ; and the laudfccpo 
Lay as if created in all the freshnets of childhood. 
Tcacc eecmed to reign npon earth, and the rostlcfs heart of the ocean 
AVas for a moment consoled. All sounds were in harmony blended. 
A'oices of children at play, the crowing of cocks in the barn-yards, 
AVhir of wings in the drowsy air, and the cooing of pigeons, 
All were subdued and low as the murmurs of love, and the great sun 
Looked with the eye of love through the golden vapors around him." 

Many persons suppose that the Indian Summer is 
distinguished only by a rise in the temperature ; and 
when, as is sometimes the case, Old Sol falls back into 
one of his July dreams, they tell us that the Indian 
Summer has come. But we must observe more care- 
fully, as the season brings no obtrusive phenomena. 
We hailed it once on Lake Georo;e, near Sabbath 



44 THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. 

Day Point. For several days tlie weather had been 
nnpropitious, but at last there came a day when earth 
seemed caught up into heaven. Then the landscape 
was bathed in a warm, rich haze, and mountain and 
valley, and field and upland, still crimsoned with a 
few autumnal tints, shone with a subdued but royal 
splendor. The lake was covered with a fine veil of 
mist, while overhead, the sky was as blue as sapphire. 
The insects, invigorated by the genial warmth, had 
come forth to add another hour to their brief day of 
life, and were gaily chirping among the branches, or 
skimming along the calm surface of the lake, unmind- 
ful of the morrow's frost. Occasionally on the shore 
could be heard the voice of a trudfifincj farmer driviuj? 
the patient ox ; but these were all the sounds that 
broke the stillness. Black Mountain towered above 
the lake, having an almost supernatural aspect, Vv^hilc 
the whole landscape appeared invested with a vague, 
dreamy life, so that there was an almost irresistible 
temptation to accept the transcendental definition of 
the universe as " a projection of God in the uncon- 
scious." It was the Indian Summer. And days like 
these are fev/ and brief; yet if they vanish like a beau- 
tiful dream, they give us a lovely night. As Whittier 
writes : 

" From gold to gmy, 

Our mild sweet day 
Of Indian Summer fades too soon ; 

liut tenderly, 

O'er lake and lea, 
lIan<TP, Avliito and calm, Iho Hunter's Moon." 



THE. LAKE IN THE SEASONS. 45 

Winter is a northern word that was first used to 
denote the period of windy weather. It now stands 
for different tilings in different latitudes. How unlike 
is winter at the equator and the poles. In one case 
it is the season of night and frost, and in the other, of 
sunshine and flowers, and eternal spring. In some 
regions, lying within the torrid zone, winter surpasses 
all other portions of the year in loveliness. There 
the traveller fails to witness the grand march of the 
seasons ; there he sees no changeful autumn and no 
general decay. Kature undergoes an imperceptible 
renovation, and is alwa}' s in her green prime, though, 
at certain seasons of the year, the heat increases, and 
the leaves seem to droop. At such times the air is 
often stifling, and the entire animal creation feels a 
sense of oppression. Erelong, however, the clouds 
gather, the blinding flash comes, followed by the 
thunder's peal, and then the sky sends down the wel- 
come rain. But soon the tempest dies away, and the 
sun looks out upon the reviving earth and smiles. 
And this is winter. Here in the tropics 

" The seasons alter : Loary-hcaded frosts 
Fall in the fresh lap of the crimson rose, 
And on Old Iliem's thin and icy crown 
An odorous chaplct of sweet summer buds 
Is as in mockery set." 

But at Lake George, as the reader may surmise, 
the seasons follow in their appointed course. Early 
in November the trees are nearly laid bare, while 



46 THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. 

fleets of crisped leaves, rich and varied in their hues, 
are launched by the wind u^Don the shimmering lake, 
where they voyage for a brief time like mimic argo- 
sies and gay gondolas, and then sink to the bottom 
with Montcalm's boats and Abercrcmbie's batteaux. 
Then the farmers bring home from the field the remains 
of their crojDS, and prepare for the cold weather, which 
is a season of isolation ; while the boys improve the 
occasion to lay in their stores of nuts, and beat about 
the woods with their guns in search of game. About 
Christmas the lake is frozen over, and by New Year's 
day its surface is transformed into a solid marble high- 
way. In the meanwhile the snow has fallen, and the 
mountains — vested in October with such magnificent 
robes — are sheeted in white from base to summit. 
The sleigh-bells resound along the roads and on the 
lake, a slippery course where all may enter free. The 
wood-cutter improves this season to get wood and 
timber from the islands, which the sharply-shed oxen 
draw home on sleds. In the sheltered coves the 
skater enjoys his sport without fear, as the intense 
cold which prevails in this season gives a great 
thickness of ice. It is a merry season. Go forth 
upon the banks of the lake, and you will hear 
the joyous shout and see the blazing bonfire. As 
Percival says: 

" Below mo rings the lake, 
The stiirs above me burn ; 
Away the skaters break, 
And glide, and wheel, and turn." 



T II r I. A K E IN T II i: SEASONS. 47 

The water at this time rises nearly two feet above 
the summer level, which fact is duly registered upon 
the rocks. 

In March the ice begins to soften and break up, but 
it does not dissolve so rai:»idly as on Lake Champlain, 
where its sudden disappearance leads some cf the 
farmer-folk to imagine that it sinks to the bottom. 
Before the ice parts, and indeed at intervals during 
the whole winter, it gives out loud reports. This, 
however, is not peculiar to Lake George. Souther 
speaks of it in his journal, under date of Feb. 1, 
1814. He says the noise was "neither like thunder 
nor the sound of wind, but a long, moaning, mel- 
ancholy sound, rising and dying away, beyond 
measure mournful." He adds, as we can well 
believe, that to any one crossing the ice, " it is 
inexpressibly awful and appalling." So Wordsworth 
writes : 

" From under Estlnvaito's splitting fields of ice 
Tho pent-up air, struggling to Irco itself, 
Gave out to meadow, ground, and hill, a loud 
rrotracted yelling, like the noise of v.olves 
Howling iu troops along the Bothnia main." 

This resemblance to the howling of wolves has been 
noticed by others. Southey, in his journal above 
quoted, says that his children suggested the idea Avhen 
they heard it. Whoever would judge for himself 
must not be content with a brief summer trip to the 



48 THE L A K ]■: in the seasons, 

lake, but must live here all the year round. The 
artist, at least, might possibly conclude about Lake 
George as Philii^ Hamerton did of Loch Awe : 

" I passed Loch Awe as tourists do, 
Catching glimpses here and there. 
Of the scenes \vc posted through; 

"With companions full of caro 
About the comforts of the inns, 
And about to-morrow's fare. 

Thus the soul, to try it, wins 

Glimpses of its Paradise. 

' Twas a judgment for my sins : 

Yet a judgment making wise. 

For I went another year 

To work alone, and settled there." 



AMONG THE ISLANDS. 



C 11 A P T E K IT. 

To burst all link of habit — then to wander far away, 
On from island unto island, at the gateways of the day. 

— Tennyson. 

Atlantis — St. Braxdox — Loch Aave — Lake George — 
Exploring — Scouting — Recluse — Dome Island — 
Camping Out — Tennyson's " Islet " — Exploring — 
Mirage — Boating — Virgil — Locii Katrine — Shelv- 
ing Rock Fall. 



HE subject of islands lias pos- 
sessed a peculiar charm in all 
, ages of the world. It was 
on an island that the ancients 
located the abode of happy 
departed spirits. Their dreams 
of that favored place w^ere col- 
. ored by the rose. The Odyssey, 
describing the fabled Atlantis, 
- says : " There the life of mortals 
must be easy ; there is no snow> 
nor winter, nor much rain, but ocean is ever sending 
up the shrilly-breathing zephyrus to refresh man." In 
those days islands were not always stationary. Delos, 




50 AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

celebrated as the birthplace of Apollo, once floated 
under the sea. And later, St. Brandon was a flying 
island, which gyrated somewhere west of the Canaries. 
It figured in all the maps at the time of Columbus, and 
was retained on a French chart in 1755. This imagin- 
ary island was named after a Scotch abbot of the sixth 
century, who undertook to find the Islands of Paradise. 
Several expeditions went in search of the Abbot's isle, 
one party sailing from Spain in 1721. It was gener- 
ally believed to be the retreat of their lost King 
Roderigo. There, also, was located the garden of 
Armida, where Rinaldo remained enchanted. 

But we can readily excuse the enchantment. Ki- 
naldo would have been enchanted almost anywhere 
among the islands of Lake George, which are unsur- 
passed for beauty. They vary in size, some being no 
larger than that island of Shakspeare, which the jest- 
ing sailor consigned to the Duke's pocket, while others 
cover a considerable extent. Occasionally they afford 
standing-room for no more than a single tree, though 
at other times su2:)porting a good sized forest. They 
occur singly, in pairs, and in groups, and are scattered 
all through the lake. At the Narrows they nearly 
block up the passage. But how shall we account for 
the islands ? 

The peasants around Loch Awe, as we are told by 
Philip Ilamerton,^ lield that the islands in that lake 

(1) — Sec Isles of Loch Awe. 



AMONG THE ISLANDS. 51 

were the crests of pastoral hills which rose in Arca- 
dian valleys ages long ago. One Bera, a coarse 
Diana, owned the vale, and it was her nightly dnty to 
cover a spring, in the neighboring mountain, w^itli a 
huge stone. This precaution being neglected, it would 
result in the overflow of the spring and the inundation 
of the valley. But on one occasion Bera left the 
spring uncovered. The next morning, to her utter 
dismay, a fearful cataract burst forth and submerged 
the valley, leaving the lesser hills with their tops just 
above the flood. And 

" So was the peaceful valley of the Awe 
Flooded aud drowned forever. Ask no more." 

This tradition tells us of a geological fact, and 
equally indicates the origin of the Isles of both Lake 
George and Loch Awe. Wliere our lake now lies 
was once an empty valley, barred with low hills built 
of the primitive rock, with which the valley is floored. 
When the rain period set in — ages long ago — the 
streams ran down the sides of the naked hills and 
filled up the valley. At first the islands were 

" Barren rocks 

Glittering -with white quartz crystals here and there, 
Scattered like spots of snoAv upon the hills; " 

but, eventually, what the geologist calls the " drift " 
period dawned, and a mighty deluge then swejDt over 
the whole country, rising above the tops of the highest 
mountains, and covering hill and valley with deposits 



52 AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

of loose earth, gravel, and sand. When the flood 
passed away, and the lake was drained doAvn to its 
former level, the islands emerged again, though the 
most of them were now covered with a deep soil, from 
which sj^rang the green groves of beech, and oak, and 
pine. But for the barrier at the lower end of the 
lake, the space it occupies would have become a 
rich, populated valley. But now we see 

" The town unbuilt, the mountain barriers closed. 
And ail tlie concave valley Avith its park, 
Embattled ball, and avenues of oal<. 
And hundred farms, a sheet of silent water." 

On the whole, however, no one is a loser. Lakes like 
Lake George have frequently been called the eyes of 
the landscape; and surely the utilitarian could not 
have the heart to put them out. 

The work of exploring the islands is one that might 
well occupy the most of an ordinary vacation, though 
it is not a work that would compensate the class of 
persons who incline to lounge away the summer on 
the piazza of the hotel. Good views may be had 
from his easy-going carriage, even by the invalid, but 
to see and know the islands thoroughly, we must use 
a pair of oars. For the most part they remain sub- 
stantially as they were two hundred years ago, and it 
is not a difficult task for the tourist, with the records 
of the olden times before him, to " conjure up again 
the evanished shapes . . ; people these isles, this 
rock; and cause, by might of spirit and power, the 



A M O N a THE ISLANDS. 53 

old times to flit by, clearly and truly." He will 
thus live over the past in the society of Father 
Roubaud, Chevalier St. Ours, Montcalm, Rogers, 
Putnam, and scores of other brave and adventurous 
spirits. 

Between the years 1755 and 17 GO, scouting among 
the islands was almost a distinct branch of the military 
profession, and the " Rangers," as they were called, 
proceeded from point to point, in small parties, camp- 
ing and fighting as they went. The traces of their 
stockades and camps have in most cases passed away, 
5^et we can row from isle to isle, and follow them in 
their adventures with the utmost certainty. 

From the pivotal positions afforded by the islands, 
we may obtain the best views of the scenery. On the 
north shore of Recluse Island, the view is had in its 
perfection. Tongue Mountain rises a little to the left ; 
directly in front, the Narrows partially unbar their 
beautiful gates ; Shelving Rock and Dome Island — the 
latter rejoicing in its green crown — lift themselves on 
the right; while Black Mountain looms grandly in the 
distance. Nothing could be more exquisite than the 
view which is here enjoyed, and the j^roprietor of the 
island has shown the most excellent taste in buUding 
his summer cottage on this romantic spot. 

Dome Island, mentioned above with Green Island, 
stands higher above the water than all the rest. The 
latter is heavily wooded with beech, birch, hemlock, 
pine, and other trees, and offers a splendid site for a 



54 



AMONG T II li; ISLANDS 



summer home, where, through the loop-holes in the 
dense wood, the eye is delighted with the ever-chang- 
ing beauty of the lake. Yet in the centre of the 
island it would be easy for one to imagine himself in 
the heart of some forest thousands of miles away ; and 
the lover of solitude is as secluded and free from intru- 
sion as Cicero, when meditating among the wild old 
woods of the Island of Astura, on the shore of the 
Tyrrhenian Sea. 

On any of the islands in the central parts of the 
lake, the fisherman or the artist will find most excel- 




UNDER CANVASS. 

lent spots to pitch his summer tent. If the weather 
should not always prove propitious, it will at least 
appear that 

" A 8umraer night in greenwood spent, 
Were but to-morrow's merriment." 

Even in a pelting storm the woodsman will find a safe 



AMONG THE ISLANDS. 55 

covert, and from his seat at the cosy camp-fire he can 
look out on tlie misty lake, blistered by the rain, with 
entire unconcern. The islands here are quite unlike 
that pictured by Tennyson, in his poem of the '• Islet." 
The little singer's wife could not say : 

" For iu all that exquisite isle, my dear, 
There is but one bird with a musical throat, 
And his compass is but of a single note, 
That it makes me weary to hear." 

It is the charm of the islands that there is no 
monotony. The lake is a kaleidoscope that is never 
at rest. It speaks eloquently of mutation in both 
sunshine and storm; and here it is easy to believe, 
with the Ettrick Shepherd, that there is no such thing 
as bad weather. Whoever, therefore, wishes to enjoy 
himself to the utmost, should take to his oars, and go 
forth a sort of Yasco de Gama upon this island sea, 
and explore the islands in their order, taking from 
each, as he passes, a tithe of arrow or spear-heads as 
souvenirs of the voyage. He will find, as he goes on, 
that nearly every island is a lifting up of the lake's 
floor, which slopes away from the rock-strewn strand 
into the clear sunlit depths below, the home of the bass 
and pike. Sometimes, v»hen a mirage invests the lake, 
they seem to mock approach ; and on a windy da}', 
when the waves break on the rocks, they are liable to 
knock a hole in the bottom of your boat ; but, plumed 
as they are with green trees, they usually wave a wel- 
come from afar, and invite the weary to repose under 
the shade of wide-spread natural tents. 



56 AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

Nothing could be more cliarming than to idle for a 
day on Lake George. For this purpose, a sail-boat is 
not always desirable. The breeze is sometimes too 
fickle to be trusted. The dead calm is often followed 
by the fitful gust or heavy squall, which rushes down 
from hill-side and mountain. On the whole it is better 
for those unused to sails to depend upon cars, since 
while these last, a good boat is safe in any weather. 
Whoever takes the time to row around the lake will 
feel amply rewarded. Whenever he tires of the oar, 
numberless sweet retreats will invite him to rest. If 
a brief summer shower overtakes him, he can find 
temporary protection under the shaggy pines and jutting 
cliffs ; and when the sun looks out, he may, at times, 
view the most magnificent rainbows spanning the lake 
from shore to shore. If weary of gazing, the fishing- 
rod awaits the disciple of Izaak Walton, who will soon 
find that the lake keeps some of its sweetest thoughts 
"expressed in trout." If his strength fails, the pass- 
ing steamer will take him on board, and tow his boat 
home. And if he should find himself belated some 
night, he will have no cause to complain of the moon- 
light or the stars ; while every farm-house on the shore 
will prove as hospitable as a hotel. 

In voyaging amid these beautiful islands, one 
familiar with the early records will wonder that the 
scenery made so little impression upon those who 
traversed the lake. The loveliness of the scenery is 
never alluded to, and from such accounts as those of 



AMONG THE ISLANDS. 57 

Father Roubaud, it would be easy to conclude that 
the writer w^as sailing on a common pond. The men 
of those days were completely absorbed in thoughts of 
war and trade, and from their pens Lake St. Sacra- 
ment does not gain the poorest tribute. And yet 
writers like Bancroft now often pause in the midst of 
grave, historical narrations, to portray, here and there, 
some charming scene which has riveted their attention 
and caused an exclamation of surprise. How beauti- 
fully does he speak of the crystal waves, the breezy 
isles, and the mountains stepping down to the shores. 
He says, " Peacefully rest the waters of Lake George 
between their rampart of highlands. Jn their pellucid 
depths, the cliffs, and the hills, and the trees trace their 
image, and the beautiful region speaks to the heart, 
teaching affection for nature."^ And yet this " affection 
for nature," as we have already remarked, was some- 
thing rare in early times. There seems to be a period 
in the history of all nations, when the finest exhi- 
bitions of nature have no power to excite admiration. 
We find that the lovely lakes of England, Ireland and 
Scotland, were wholly unappreciated by the best of 
the old writers. Even the early English poets are 
dumb on the subject of Windermere, Loch Awe, and 
Killarney. During the fifteenth, sixteenth, and seven- 
teenth centuries, those beautiful regions were well 
known, but they had no message for the most culti- 

(1) — Hist., Vol. iv. p. 259. 



58 AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

vated minds. It was so with the Italian Lakes even 
in the Augustan Age. Virgil, who was horn near the 
shores of Como, only says : 

" Our spacious lakes; thco, Larius [Como]; and next 
Bcrnacus, with tempestuous billows vex't.''i 

And yet the lakes have no lack of admirers 7iow ; 
while at Lake George the tide of travel is increasing 
every year. Men of taste who have frittered away 
much time at the hackneyed watering-places scattered 
throughout the country, often feel like the author of 
the following lines, who says, 

" O timid heart! with thy glad throbs 

Some self-reproach is blended, 

At the long years that died before, 

The sight of scene so splendid." 

One does not know, when on the lake, what feature 
to admire most. It is a feast of beauty all the way 
through. Willis declares that in this respect, as well 
as others, it excels Loch Katrine. Speaking on this 
point he says, " Loch Katrine at the Trosachs, is a 
miniature likeness of Lake George. It is the only 
lake in Europe that has at all the same style and 
degree of beauty. . . . Loch Katrine can scarcely be 
called picturesque, except at the Trosachs, while Lake 
George throughout all the mazes of its . . islands, 
preserves the same wild . . character of beauty." 
Indeed, one always feels that the last view is the best. 

(l) — Gcorg.ii., 1.159. 



AMONG THE ISLANDS. 59 

We have spoken of camping out on the islands, but 
this mode of life is not imperative. On Fourteen 
JVIile Island, op^DOsite Uolton, is a good hotel, sur- 
rounded by many attractions. Near by is the sweet- 
est waterfall to be found around the lake. It is easily 
reached in boating. Shelving Rock Fall is situated 
on a small stream which empties into Shelving Rock 
Bay, about a mile south of Fourteen Mile Island. It 
is found a few rods from the beach, and all its accesso- 
ries have been arranged by nature with admirable 
artistic effect. Shelving Rock Fall is not a Niagara, 
even in miniature, — and in the White Mountain 
region, where numberless cascades lea^D down the hill- 
sides, and bound from crag to crag, our little fall would 
be passed without notice ; yet it is a j^erfect gem, and at 
Lake George, where cascades are not numerous, it is 
fully aj^preciated. Silently flowing out from its covert 
of dark green foliage, the stream glides along its stony 
bed until it meets a large boulder, when it divides into 
two parts and springs foaming down the declivity, 
uniting again before reaching its basin below, from 
whence it flows, singing and shimmering towards the 
tranquil lake. This is one of the most charming spots 
on the lake for a j^icnic, and well rejiays the tourist 
for the time spent on a trip among the islands. 




IN GENERAL. 

CHATTER V . 

The Old Man of the Fort — Rattlesnakes — Relics— • 
Jacques Courtois — Lake Deposits — An Old Vessel 
— Indian Graves — A Nepistingue Burial — Fisii — 
Fishing — Shooting — Squirrels — Geology — Gems. 

ANTIQUITIES in general is a 
subject that must not be omitted 
in the account of Lake George, 
especially at the present time, 
when there is a revived interest 
in everything ancient, and when 
so many individuals are glad to 
enter upon "the constant service 
of the antique world." This depart- 
ment is interesting, if not very exten- 
sive, and has always engaged the 
attention of some one of the odd 
characters that haunt the lake. 

About the year 1830, there was a person of this 
sort at Caldwell. He was known by visitors as " The 
Old Man of the Fort," and his name sometimes made 
its way into the metropolitan papers. He came origi- 
nally from Massachusetts, and had known the lake 




IN GE NE R AL. 6l 

during forty-five of his seventy-six years of existence. 
*' Old Dick," as he was often called, knew just where 
to find the rattlesnakes, which were very jDlentiful on 
Cobble Hill and Black Mountain, though they are 
rare enough now. He carried on quite a thriving 
trade in rattlesnakes, and used to practice the difficult 
art of extracting their fangs. He often travelled up 
and down the lake on the steamboat, where he kept a 
box of snakes for exhibition. On his box was the 
following inscription : "■ In this box ar a Rattell Snaick 
Hoo was Kecht on Blak Mounting. He is seven 
years old last Guly. Admittance sixpents site, chil- 
dren half 2^rice or nothen." The latter clause he 
thought extremely witty. 

The Old Man of the Fort has left no successor, yet 
there are several persons known as rattlesnake hunters ; 
one of whom usually gets up quite a little stock of 
antiquities every year to dispose of to the summer 
visitors. There is but very little doubt about the 
genuine character of these specimens. A diligent 
search would result in the discovery of many objects 
of interest. The grounds around the village of Cald-- 
well are full of mementos of the past. Scarcely a foot 
of soil can be upturned without bringing to light some 
relic of the French and English wars. In excavating 
for cellars, the laborer's spade uncovers the grave of 
both soldier and savage, who often found promiscuous 
sepulture. Around Fort George may be dug up frag- 
ments of bombshell, together with a variety of souve- 



62 I N G E N E R A L . 

nirs of a similar character, collecticns of which may be 
seen in the museums of the hotels. The site of what 
is called the Old French Burying-Ground is still 
pointed out near the foot of Rattlesnake Cobble. The 
ground has frequently been examined by those inter- 
ested in the antiquities of the lake, and the owner was 
finally obliged to prohibit investigations. At one time 
there was a stone standing on this spot inscribed, 
"Jacques Courtois, 1755."^ A brief biography, indeed. 
It indicates that he lived and died. lie was, perhaps, 
attached to Dieskau's army in some capacity, and 
came from sunny France to America with many high 
anticipations. Wealth, honor, and renown, all floated 
before his eyes, but he found, like multitudes of his 
countrymen, only a bloody grave. 

There are numberless treasures in the lake, where 
they are at present likely to remain. During the 
French war and the war of the Eevolution, hundreds 
of boats, batteaux, and small craft, were destroyed in a 
single day. Some were burned and others sunk. 
Many vessels, loaded with war material, went down 
in deep water, where the diver would to-day find 
whole batteries of rusty cannon, and muskets without 
number. Within a recent period the fisherman has 
seen here and there, at the bottom of the lake, bat- 

(1) — April 11, 1754. six French deserters came to Albany from Ni- 
agara, by the way of Oswepfo. Among them was "Jean liaptiste do 
Cortois" (French Comte). It is jjossible that this is the same person. 
The French deserters often enlisted in English regiments. Col. Doc. 
vi. p. 832. 



IN GENERAL. 6^ 

teaux, apparently filled with barrels, while others say 
they have seen cannon. Ai'tillery, shot, and shell 
were frequently secreted in the lake, as well as on the 
land, by both the French and English, and much of 
this material remains where it was deposited. Aber- 
crombie sunk a large vessel of one hundred tons, near 
Fort William Henry, to keep her from falling into the 
hands of the enemy. This vessel was afterwards 
raised, and emploj'cd by Lord Amherst in 1759. The 
hull of a large vessel is still seen in fair, calm weather, 
and appears to be nearly full of cobble-stones, prob- 
ably ballast. There the old craft has lain for an 
entire century, 

" Docked in the sand 
Vailing her high top lower than her ribs 
To kiss her burial." 

The spot where this hulk may be seen is near the 
steamboat-landing, and can be found only when the 
lake is perfectly calm and the sky clear. Many years 
ago one of the residents of Caldwell undertook to raise 
the interesting relic, but failed, being able to get up 
only a portion of the timber of the bows. It is impos- 
sible to say what vessel this was, or w^hether it was 
built by the French or English. Perhaps it is the 
remains of the " Halifax," a vessel that Lord Amherst 
took with him in his expedition against Ticonderoga, 
in 1759. It is not too late to save what is still left, 
yet the keel of this old craft will never plough the 
lake a^ain. Near Hao^ue, on the shore of the lake, 



64 IN GENERAL. 

may be seen the remains of the steamer John Jay, 
which was destroyed by fire. On this occasion several 
lives were lost. 

Around the lake may be found numerous relics of 
the Indians, such as stone knives, hatchets, and arrow- 
heads. On Recluse Island a number of the latter 
have been picked up, together with fragments of the 
material from which they are made, which shows that 
the place was once the site of an Indian dwelling, 
and that 

" There the ancient arroAv-makcr 
Made his arrow-heads of sandstone — 
Arrow-heads of chalcedony — 
Arrow-heads of flint and jasper, 
Smoothed and sharpened at the edges, 
Hard and polished, keen and costly." 

Indian graves, except near battle-grounds, are not 
often found, though here and there on the hill-sides 
bordering the lake, and on the islands, may be seen 
what visitors sometimes imagine to be mounds, denot- 
ing places of sepulture. Theste are formed by the 
upturning of trees during the winter gales. Cart-loads 
of earth frequently adhere to the roots of large trees, 
and when they fall, it assumes the oblong shape of 
graves. In course of time the trunk of the tree decays, 
and nature neatly turfs over the mound, which has 
every appearance of being the work of man.^ These 

(1) — In the summer of last year (1867), the author saw a party of 
antiquarians opening one of the^e mounds. A large stone lay at 
each end, fully persuading them that the mound covered an Indian 
grave. Of course nothing Avas found. 



INGENERAL. 65 

mounds may be found in all stages of progress among 
the islands of the lake. Nevertheless, genuine Indian 
graves still exist. There must be one somewhere on 
the shore of the lake, near Montcalm's Bay, which the 
antiquary would deem a rare prize. It is the grave 
of a warrior who was killed in a fight at that place in 
1757, on the evening before Montcalm arrived in front 
of Fort William Henry. The account of the burial is 
given by Father Roubaud, missionary of the Abenakis. 
He says : 

" The morning had scarcely begun to dawn, when a 
party of the Nepistingue tribe proceeded with the 
funeral rites of their brother, killed during the action 
of the preceding night, and who died in the errors of 
paganism. His obsequies w^ere celebrated with all 
pomp and savage splendor. The dead body had been 
arrayed in all its ornaments, or rather overloaded with 
all the trinkets that the most unusual degree of pride 
would be able to employ, under circumstances so sad 
in themselves. Collars of porcelain, silver bracelets, 
pendants for the ears and nose, magnificent dresses, 
all had been lavished on him. They had even called 
in the aid of paint and vermilion, to cover up under 
these brilliant colors, the pallid hue of death, and to 
give to his countenance an air of life, which in reality 
it did not possess. They had not been forgetful of 
any of the decorations of an Indian warrior. A gor- 
get or neck-piece, bound with red ribbon, hung negli- 
gently on his breast ; his gun resting on his arm, the 



IN GENERAL. 67 

The fishermen must remember, however, tha^ the 
fish of the lake are protected by speciaL legislation. 
The law of 1812 proliibited the use of either seine or 
spear in taking fish in the lake or its tributaries. 
The law of 1824 was still more stringent, prohibiting 
angling, also, between September 1 and December 
15. The law of 1853 stands as follows, though the 
amendment of 1855 makes an exception as regards 
those small fish which are taken for bait : 

" It shall not be lawful for any person or persons to 
draw any seine, set any net, or spear any fish, in the 
waters of Lake George, or at or in the outlets or 
mouths of any brook, or creek entering into the same, 
at any season of the year ; or to use any means or 
devices, angling excepted, to take or procure any fish 
in or from the waters of said lake, brooks, or creeks, 
at any season of the year ; or to take any bass in said 
waters, or any of them between the first days of April 
and July in any year, in any manner, or by or under 
any device or pretence whatever."^ 

The hunter will not find himself without employ- 
ment at the lake. During the fall and winter he may 
find an abundance of deer in the vicinity of Tongue 
Mountain. They are often driven into the lake and 
captured. In the right season there is always work 
to be done on land, with such members of the feathered 
tribe as the woodcock, the partridge, and the quail, 

(1)— Kcv. Stat., Clmp. 506. 



68 IN GENERAL. 

while.on the lake he can watch his opi3ortunity for a 
shot at the wild ducks. Besides the game-birds, the 
naturalist will find no small variety, and may bag 
excellent specimens of the gull, which always appears 
lonesome here on the lake; also the hawk, the loon, 
and, at times, the king of birds, the eagle. 

At this place, whoever may be on the watch, will 
sometimes have an opportunity of seeing the squirrels 
travel, exaggerated accounts cf whose performances 
on the water frequently get into popular works on 
natural history. On such occasions they go in search 
of food. A writer who hunted at the lake, at a 
somewhat recent period, gives the following account. 
He says : 

"In the month of September, 1851, I arrived at 
Lake George, where I found that the gray and black 
squirrels had been travelling for several days, and 
were still moving. Early one morning I discovered 
three or four at several distances, swimming from the 
western to the eastern shore of the lake, which at that 
time was as smooth as glass. I watched them as long 
as I could see the ripples the water made, and sujd- 
posed that they succeeded in crossing the lake, which 

at this point was more than a mile wide I 

found many of both black and grey squirrels iloating 
or lying along the shore of the lake, droAvned. Per- 
sons frequently went after them in boats, and on 
putting down the oar before them, they would run up 
into the boat almost exhausted, where they were 



IN GENERAL. 69 

secured alive. 1 saw several that had been so taken 
at Lake George."^ 

The geologist will find abundant opportunities for 
study at Lake George, while the mineralogist can reap 
quite a harvest. The crystals of Diamond Island have 
already been spoken of in another place. At Rogers 
Slide may be found handsome garnets, resinite, cocco- 
lite, pyroxene, sphene, calcareous spar, and graphite ; 
and, near by, tourmaline. The discovery of the latter 
mineral, in its amorphous condition, when it resembles 
anthracite, once caused some of the residents in the 
vicinity of the lake to believe that they had found a 
valuable bed of coal. A slight knowledge of geology 
would have taught them the impossibility of finding 
coal in j^nma^y rock; yet this discovery, led to a 
dispute, and ended in some unprofitable litigation. 

Hematite occurs in the primitive rock at Anthony's 
Nose, which reddens with it in spots. Feldspar, epi- 
dote, and graphite also occur in Ticonderoga. 

The sands of Lake George are particularly fine, 
and have a large interest apart from the beauty which 
they frequently give to the beach. Sand is the dust 
of the ages — the powdered foundation of the elder 
world. When obtained in its purest state it is com- 
posed of simple silex. But on the shores of the lake it 
is mixed with other materials. On the beach at Cald- 
well, a loadstone thrust into the sand will sometimes 

(1) — DeVoc's Market Assistant, p. 123. 



70 IN GENERAL. 

be drawn forth, covered, more or less, with a fine, 
glossy, black, magnetic iron-sand. There is also to be 
found limjiid quartz, powdered garnet, and epidote. 
Wlien mixed together, spread out loosely on a white 
paper, and viewed with a magnifying glass, the}'^ appear 
to very good advantage, and then if the lens should 
happen to be of great power, one might imagine that 
he had found a prize. Speaking of this sand, Silliman 
says : " It is indeed somewhat difficult to believe, that 
the garnet, and epidote, and probably coccolite, often 
rich in their colors, and highly translucent, are not 
ruby and chrysoberyl. It would be worth while," he 
adds, "to examine these sands more particularly, to 
ascertain if there may not be gems among them, as 
the gems of Ceylon and Brazil, and the hyacinths of 
Expaily in France are found among the alluvial ruin, 
. . . All similar sands should be examined with an 
attentive eye."^ 

A pinch of sand which the author once took home 
from Sabbath Day Point, and examined under an 
achromatic microscope of high power, affi^rded a rare 
exhibition. When brought into focus, and illuminated 
by the aid of a condenser, the effect was magical. A 
turn of the milled screw, and — presto! — the dull and, 
to the naked eye, almost colorless dust becomes an 
outspread heap of sparkling gems. One would think 
that he had suddenly come into the cave of some 

(1) — Silliman'sTour, Vol.i. p. 172. 



IN GENERAL. 



71 



genii, so great is the profusion of epiclote, garnet, 
amethyst, and crystal quartz. The rich colors of 
these minute fragments combine to form a beautiful 
exhibition, though one cannot help regretting the 
destruction of rich minerals involved in its produc- 
tion. 

But the reader must not be kept longer from the 
consideration of the romantic history of Lake George. 




^,vf-><^f^J.A.,, 



COLONIAL DAYS. 

But SCO, tlio haughty liouschold troops advance ! 
The dread of Europe and the pride of France. 

CHAPTER VI. 

ChAMPLAIN — JOGUES — COURCELLES — NiCIIOLSON'S EXPE- 
DITION— TiIE Battle or Lake George — Bloody Pond 
— The Retreat — Fort William Henry — Scouting — 
Loudon — Rigaud's Expedition — Father Roubaud — 
Montcalm — The Massacre. 




I HE existence of Lake George was 
first made known to Europeans 
by the French. In July, 1G09, 
ChampLain ascended the St. Law- 
rence, in company with a party 
of Hurons and Algonquins, and 
sailed across the lake which now 
'^ bears his name. He had joined 
these Indians in an expedition 
agamst the hostile Iroquois, for the 
purpose of gaining their good will. As 
they proceeded on the way, the Indians 
described the country to be traversed, 
and the region which was inhabited by their enemies. 
Champlain says, " The Indians told me . . . that we 



COLONIAL DAYS. 73 

must joass by a waterfall, vjJiich I afleru-ards saiv^ and 
then enter another lake three or four leagues long." 
That lake was Lake George, the outlet of which, at 
Ticoncleroga, forms a beautiful fall. This bold explorer 
never saw the lake itself.- Encountering their enemies 
near Crown Point, whither they had come to meet 
them, the Hurons and their confederates gained an 
easy victory by means of the arquebus cf Champlain, 
and returned with ten or twelve prisoners. 

The first white man who is known to have seen ^ 
Lake George was Father Jogues.^ ^^ay 29, 1C4G, he J 
was on his way to the Mohawk country, to perfect a 
treaty. Attended by Jean Bourdon, the engineer, who 
was one of the principal residents of Quebec, he ar- 
rived in a canoe at the outlet of the lake on the eve of 
the festival of Corpiis Ckrisii,* and named it Lac du 
Sl Sacremont,^ Lake of the Blessed Sacrament. By 

(1) — Doc. His. N. Y., Vol. iii. p. 5. 

(2) — Charlevoix has been quoted by various authors, as saying that 
Champlain passed the rapids and sailed up Lake St. Sacrament; yet 
Charlevoix says nothing of the kind. His account of the matter 
indicates precisely the contrary. 

(3) — Isaac Jogues, a member of the Society of Jesus, was born in 
Orleans, France, in 1607, and fell a martyr to the Faith in 1646, being 
cruelly murdered by the Mohawks, among whom he Avas laboring as 
a missionary. He was the first Roman Catholic missionary to enter 
the State of New York. When he left Canada to go on his mission, 
he had a presentiment of his coming fate, saying, Iho, ixcc redibo. 

(4)_ A. festival kept on the Thursday following Trinity Sunday, in 
commemoration of the supposed Kcal Tresenco of Christ in tho 
Sacrament. 

(5) — In giving it this name, the reference was not to the purity of 
the water. It was wholly in honor of the festival. See Relations des 
Jesuites, 1G46, p. 15. 



74 COLONIAL DAYS. 

the Iroquois it had been known as^ Andiartarocte,^ 
which meant the Tail of the Lake, i. e. the place where 
Lake Champlain closes. The next day they continued 
their course southward, on foot, " with great fatigue, 
for they had to carry on their backs their bundles and 
baggage." The Algonquin guides were forced to leave 
a great portion of their baggage on the border of the 
lake. 

They reached their destination, accomplished their 
object, and June IG started on their return. The Re- 
lation says : " They travelled several days by land, not 
without trouble, for they had, like Arabian horses, to 
carry their victuals and baggage, the brooks being the 
only taverns to be met with. Arriving on the border 
of Lake St. Sacrament, tliey made canoes, or small 
boats, with bark ; and setting out in them, they pad- 
dled and sailed until the twenty-seventh of the same 
month of June, and then landed at the first French 
habitation."^ 



(1) — Father Bruyas in liis MS. work on Mohawk HacUcals, Bays: 
" Ganniatare, a, lake: Ganniatariakte, I pass it with something." 
Potier, in his Huron Grammar, mentions un and ncl as convertible. 
Hence the form Canrfiia^aj'e. Garocto means, " Go quickly." The 
name " Ilorikan " — Silvery Water — has no authority, and is simply 
a fancy of Cooper's. 

(2) — Itclation 164:G, p. 18. Father Jogucs has been represented (see 
Brodhead's New York, p. 423) as returning by the " same route " that 
he came. The authority given is Father Tanner's curious Latin work, 
compiled chiefly from the Eclations. On this point he is c'early 
wrong, as well as in regard to the date of Father Jogues' return, 
which was on the 17th, and not the IGth, of June. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 75 

Father Jogues, therefore, was probably the first 
European who sailed upon the waters of the beautiful 
Lake of the Holy Sacrament. 

It is true that others of the Fathers travelled 
in the vicinity about this time. Among them was 
Father Bressani, who was carried away captive by the 
Mohawks in 1G44; but he says nothing in his Rela- 
tion^ about the lake. 

The map published by the Jesuits in 1G64, indeed, 
has a dotted trail from the south end of Lake St. 
Sacrament to the Mohawk villages ; yet the absurd 
form given to the lake shows that whoever made the 
map had never sailed upon its waters. The trail laid 
down was probably the course j^ursued by the Indians. 
Father Poncet,^ who was made a prisoner by the 
Iroquois in 1G52, is silent respecting the lake. Father 
LeMoyne, who wrote four years later, maintains the 
same reticence. 

January 30, IGGG, the French operations became 
active, and Courcelles, Governor of Canada, left Fort 
St. Theresa to attack the Mohawks near the banks of 
the Hudson, but he returned February 12, without in- 
flicting much injury upon the enemy. Later in the 
year, about the 1st of July, Sorel marched on the same 
errand, and while on his way met a deputation of 
Indians who were going to Montreal to effect a peace. 
Accordingly he returned, and on the 12tli of the 

(1) — Col. Doc, ix. 46. Relations des Jesuites, 1665, VoJ. iii. p. 6. 

(2) — ib., 1653, Vol. p. 11. 



76 COLONIAL DAYS. 

month a treaty was made with the Oneidas, it being 
agreed to " open a trade and commerce by the Lake 
du Saint Sacrement."^ 

September 14, Tracy, then Viceroy of Canada, find- 
ing the Mohawks extremely troublesome, sent the 
Governor, Courcelles, with a considerable force, to 
destroy their forts and villages. Tracy himself joined 
the expedition. Considerable success attended their 
efforts, though both the Viceroy and the Governor 
were disabled by hardship, and were carried back 
the most of the distance by their men, reaching Mon- 
treal in fifty-three days from the time they set out. 
The route taken by these expeditions is not noted 
with accuracy, yet it is highly probable that they 
passed over Lake St. Sacrament. 

In 1668 Fathers Fremin, Pierron, and Bruyas 
went up Lake Champlain, and passed south from 
Ticonderoga by land. Near by the Indians showed 
them a place where some water-dwellers exchanged 
flints for tobacco. We give a translation of the 
account as narrated by the Fathers themselves. They 
say: 

" We arrived at three-fourths of a league from the 
rapids, where Lake St. Sacrament empties. We 
halted at this place without knowing the reason, 
except that we saw our Indians pick up at the water's 
edge, gun-flints almost completely cut. We did not 

(1) — Col. Doc; Vol. ix. p.4G; iii.p.l2S. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 77 

then give it any attention, but we subsequently learned 
the mystery, for our Iroquois told us that they never 
failed to halt at that place to pay homage to a nation 
of invisible men, who dwelt there at the bottom of the 
water, and were engaged in preparing gim-flints almost 
ready for use, for those who passed, provided they 
rendered them their obeisance by offering them some 
tobacco. If they gave much they gave the stones 
liberall3\ These water-men join canoes like the 
Iroquois ; and when their great chief plunges into 
the water to enter his palace, he makes such a loud 
noise that it fills with terror the minds of all those 
who are not aware of his great genius."^ 

The Indians conversed on the subject very seriously ; 
but the good Fathers explain that these stones, so 
useful in striking fire, were thrown up by the waves 
during the storms, and that the invisibles aforesaid 
have nothing to do with the matter. 

The reverend Father says in the Relation, that while 
he stopped on an island on Lake Champlain, the rest 
went forward, the boatmen " landing at the end of the 
Lake du St. Sacrement, and preparing for the portage. 
Each one loads himself with baggage and canoes, in 
which, re-embarking, [in Lake St. Sacrament] at last, 
after some paddle-strokes, we left them, joyful to have 
reached the end of the lake, whence there remained 
thirty leagues to make by land." 

(l) — E€lations des Jesuitcs, 1368. Vol. iii. p. 5. 



78 ' COLONIAL 1) A Y S . 

The language of the Eelation is here a little obscure, 
but he probably means that only a part of the Indians 
re-embarked. We are, however, informed that the 
Iroquois kept a regular guard at this point. They 
remenibered the expedition of Tracy two years before, 
and "all the country of the Iroquois was then in 
apprehension of a new army, so that fourteen men 
were continually on the watch at the end of the lake 
to discover the march of the army and give prompt 
news to all the nation, that they might set ambushes 
in the woods to attack and cut us in pieces. But 
instead of enemies," says the Father, " we were angels 
of peace ; and they, instead of lions, were servants, 
and helped us to carry our packages. We marched 
in their company by small days' journeys."^ 

We find nothing further of interest, until Waite and 
Jennings crossed the lake on their way to Canada, to 
negotiate for the return of the English, who were 
taken prisoners by the French and Indians at Hatfield 
and Deerfield, Massachusetts, September 19, 1677. 
Under date of December 13, following, it is said : 
" Securing, with some difficulty, an Indian guide on 
whom they could rely, they proceeded to Lake George, 
where, finding a canoe, they crossed to the outlet of 
that lake in three ds^s."- From thence they went on 
to St. John's, ond at once found a part of the pris- 
oners. 

(\) — Relations des Jesuites, 1G38. Vol. iii. p. (J. 

(2) — Attack on Ilatfiokl and Deerfield. Bradlord Club, p. 32. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 79 

In 1G90, hostilities being threatened between the 
French and English, the former at Montreal, Bancroft 
says, were frequently alarmed by reports that the 
Indians and colonists were building canoes and de- 
scending Lake St. Sacrament. But on June 21, of 
the next year, the English moved in earnest, and 
Major John Schuyler left Albany to attack Fort La- 
praire. Ilis force consisted of two hundred and sixty 
whites and friendly Indians, of which number no less 
than sixty-eight were killed and wounded before Iris 
return. ^ 

His expedition attracted much attention at the time, 
but resulted in little real good. During this expe- 
dition he sent scouting-parties out on Lake St. Sa- 
crament, as it was then universally called, who ranged 
uj) and down its waters.^ The expedition of Colonel 
Philip Schuyler to the same place, the following year, 
does not appear to have gone nearer the lake than 
Ticonderoga. 

In 1692 Menteth, who commanded six hundred 
French, moved during the winter against the Mohawks 
living south of the Hudson, and defeated them with 
considerable loss. It is not so clear that he crossed 
the lake on his way south, yet he returned that way. 
The French report says, under date of March 2 : 
" Came to sleep at Lake St. Sacrament ; several of 
the Indians left us to hunt, and as they alone were 

(1) — Col. Doc, Vol. iii. p. 800. 



( 



8o COLONIAL DAYS. 

master of the jn-isoners, whom they did not guard very 
strictly, many of them escaped/' 

The next morning they moved on, and on the 4th 
they arrived at the place where they had previously 
deposited a quantity of provisions, which they found 
spoiled. This caused a "universal and most rigid 
fast." Some of the party boiled their moccasins with 
a few potatoes to satisfy their hunger. They reached 
Montreal on March 17.^ 

Queen Anne's war commenced in 1702, and con- 
tinued until 1713. During this war the lake was 
used to some extent, and was, on the whole, the favor- 
ite route to Canada. It involved a portage at Ticon- 
deroga, but it was considered by far the most healthy. 
The war, however, went on for about nine years 
before the quiet of the lake was seriously disturbed. 
At that time the colonists prepared to invade Canada, 
and on August 28 Colonel Nicholson marched with 
four thousand men, one half of whom were Germans 
and Indians. Tut he had scarcely reached the site of 
the present village of Caldwell, at the head of Lake 
St. Sacrament, when he heard of the failure of Gen- 
eral Hill's expedition against Quebec, and received 
orders to return to Albany. 

In 1745 hostilities again broke out witli the French, 
who came down by the way of Lake Champlain and 
Fort Edward, in the course of the war destroying 

(1) — ib., Vol.ix. p. 500. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 8l 

Saratoga and capturiug Fort Massachusetts, which 
was situated within the limits of Williamstown, Mass. 

During this war the lake was visited by six hundred 
Dutch and friendly Indians. The former w^ent on a 
scout down the lake in canoes, but did not meet with 
the enemy. Later, the French commander, Devillers, 
sent scouts to the lake, which he calls " Lake St. 
Laurent," who reported that they found camps and 
cabins sufficient to accommodate the above-mentioned 
number of men. The camps appeared as if they had 
not been left more than a month. Yet the war closed 
v/ithout any hostilities on the lake, which was next 
used to some extent by Indian smugglers. About 
this time a party of the Six Nations, who had deserted 
and established themselves near Montreal, seem to 
have monopolized the illicit trading between Albany 
and Montreal.^ On one occasion they saved the life 
of a captive of another tribe, who had been taken to 
Crown Point, and carried him in their canoes across 
Lake St. Sacrament to his home. 

The next year General Johnson, aftewards Sir 
William Johnson, visited the lake with several tribes 
of Indians. He tells us in his account of the Oneidas, 
that this tribe often used a tree as a symbol of stability, 
but that their true symbol is a stone, called Onogci. 
His visit to the lake was marked only by the setting 
up of the Indian signs. He w^rites : " I went on Lake 

(1) — Coldcu's Five NatiouF, Vol. ii. p. 121. 



82 COLONIAL DAYS. 

St. Sacrament in 174G, when, to show the enemy the 
strength of our Indian alliance, I desired each nation 
to affix their symbol to a tree, to alarm the French. 
The Oneidas," he says, " put up a stone, which they 
painted red."^ 

In the year 1749 Kalm, the Swedish traveller, 
intended to pass down the lake, but was finally obliged 
to go by the way of Whitehall, though he testifies that 
the common route at that time lay over St. Sacrament, 
which indicates that the lake was well known. 

We find no record of anything of much interest in 
connection with the lake from this time forward, until 
the year 1755, when, on the 28th of August, General 
Johnson built a military road, and, marching to the 
lake, encamped at its head with a small army, designed 
to operate against Crown Point, and repel the aggres- 
sions of the French, who were now preparing to assert 
their claims to a large part of the country. Immedi- 
ately on his arrival he changed the name of the lake, 
and ordered that it should in the future be known as 
Lake George, '' not only," as he raid, " in honor of 
his Majesty, but to ascertain his undoubted dominion." 
This change was one that must ever be regretted, 
sinc3 no more beautiful or appropriate name could be 
suggested than that given by the devout Father JogucF-, 
by which it was known for more than a century. 
" Lake Jogucs," would be preferable to Lake George. 

(1) — Doc. His., Vol. iv. p. 271. 



COLONIAL DAYS. S;^ 

lYlien Johnson reached the lake he found the whole 
country covered with primeval woods, where, he says, 
though not wath exact truth, " no house was ever 
before built, not a spot of land cleared." And while 
he was here engaged in making preparations to 
advance, the French general, Dieskau, made his 
appearance near the southern spur of French Moun- 
tain, with an army of two thousand men, a portion of 
Vvhom were Indians. 

A council of war was held on the morning of Sep- 
tember 8, when it w^as resolved to send a force to 
meet the enemy. General Johnson at first proposed 
a somewhat small number of men for this service ; 
but the old Mohawk sachem, " King Hendrick," a 
firm friend of the English, declared that the force was 
insufficient. " If they are to fight," said the chief, 
" they are too few ; if to be killed, they are too many." 
Again, when Johnson proposed to divide the force into 
three parties, he took three sticks, and said : " Put 
these together and you cannot break them : take them 
one by one, and you can break them easily." Thus 
the question was settled, and Colonel Williams was 
placed in command of twelve hundred men, among 
whom was a body of Mohawk Indians under Hen- 
drick. 

Colonel Williams met the enemy at a brook four 
miles east of the lake, where the road to Glen's Falls 
now passes, and was unfortunately drawn into an 
ambush laid in the form of a half moon. The enemy 



\ 



84 COLONIAL DAYS. 

at once opened a galling fire, inider which the English 
force was mowed down like grass. The aged Hen- 
drick, who rode horseback and directed the movements 
of his men, fell from his saddle, mortally wonnded ; and 
Colonel Williams was killed by a bullet, while stand- 
ing on or near a rock, (which is still pointed out,) 
giving his orders. Colonel Whiting immediately suc- 
ceeded to the command, and ordered the troops to fall 
back to the main body at the lake, from whence rein- 
forcements had already been sent to their aid. This 
movement was accomplished with coolness, notwith- 
standing the previous blunder. 

Dieskau rapidly followed, and at eleven o'clock 
reached the eminence where the slight earthwork 
called Fort Gage Avas afterwards built. Hoyt, who 
conversed with several soldiers engaged in the battle, 
gives an account of their impressions when they saw 
the disciplined Frenchmen appearing on the hill : 
" The regulars advanced in a column of platoons, then 
a novelty to provincial troops, and as the day was fine, 
their polished arms glittered through the tops of the 
intervening trees like masses of icicle, multiplying 
their number ten-fold."^ 

Johnson's camp was situated near the site of the 
ruins of Fort George, where he had formed a slight 
breastwork of logs, and was somewhat prepared to 
meet him. After a brief delay the enemy attache:! 

(i) — Antiquarian licsoaichcy, p. 27G. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 85 

with much fury, and the battle raged for a period of 
five hours. Dieskau's Indians, however, feared the 
artillery of the English, and the French were unable, 
with all their exertions, to carry the j^osition. Finally 
they gave up the attempt and retreated, the English 
jumping over the breastworks and pursuing for some 
distance. At sunset the remnant of the French army 
halted near the scene of the mornins: eno-aoement, and 
w^hile refreshing themselves there, were suddenly 
attacked by two hundred New-Hampshire men from 
Fort Edward, under Captain McGinnis. They were 
at once routed, and fled in dismay, leaving all their 
baggage, w^hile the blood of the slaughtered men 
mingled with the water of a shallow pond, which has 
since been known as " Bloody Pond." 

General Johnson was Avounded early in the engage- 
ment at his camp, and retired to his tent, turning over 
the command to General Lyman, who stocd in the 
most exposed positions, coolly giving his orders and 
cheering on the men, until the victory was secured. 
Still, Johnson did not have the magnanimity even to 
mention Lyman in his despatches, though in his tent 
he admitted the great value of his services. A con- 
spiracy^ was even formed among certain of the officers 
to accuse Lyman of coicardice. The consjjiracy failed, 
but that brave man was kept frcm the enjoyment cf 
his just reward. On the other hand General Johnson 

(1) — lloview of Mil. Opcratious in N. A., 1755-6. Scries B, p. 64. 



86 COLONIAL DAYS. 

obtained great credit, and, in addition to the grant 
of a large sum of money by Parliament, was created 
a baronet. 

In this engagement the intrepid Dieskau was 
wounded^ and taken prisoner. His motto — Valor 
wins — signally failed in this instance. His whole 
army might have been either destroyed or captured, if 
the advantage gained had been followed up. Lyman 
strenuously advocated this policy, but Johnson thought 
it unsafe. 

The troops engaged were chiefly from New England, 
New York furnishing only eight hundred. The loss 
was estimated at about three hundred in killed and 
wounded. The French lost from four to six hun- 
dred. They retreated to Crown Point and aban- 
doned the campaign. 

This was the first battle fought at Lake George. It 
was of great importance, both inasmuch as it rebuked 
the arrogant assumptions of the French, and taught 
them the hopelessness of seeking to divide the common 
interests. The result filled the whole country with 
the wildest joy, and the people everywhere began to 
take heart. 



(1) — He was Avounded twice. Some authorities say that the second 
shot — a severe one in his hips — was given by a renegade French- 
man; while otliers affirm that it was fired by one ofthc Englisli, Avho, 
on approaching the wounded general to make him a prisoner, saw 
liim put his hand in his breast as if to draw a pistol, wlicrcas he was 
simply feeling for liis watch. Dieskau died in Sureune, France, from 
the elTcct of liis wounds, September 8, 1767. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 87 

Before leaving this subject, however, it may be 
projier to notice the spirit displayed by New Yoik, 
then distracted by internal dissensions, and under 
the influence of the wrong leaders. The struggle 
going on was upon !New-York ground, and was mcie 
especially designed for the protection of her people. 
The French power was in the ascendant, and an 
easy route by water was open between Montreal and 
the city of New York. The French fully announced 
their ambitious designs by the estabishment of a fort 
and colony at Crown Point twenty-five years before ; 
and yet the j^eople of New York, who at this time 
numbered not less than 55,000, seemed, on the whole, 
altogether too Avilling to yield their back to the smiter. 
" But," says Smith, in his history of New York, " a 
very different spirit prevailed in the eastern colonies ; 
for, upon the southern defeat, Massachusetts added 
eight hundred, and Connecticut fifteen hundred, men 
to the forces already under General Johnson's com- 
mand."^ And when New York complained that the 
funds granted by Parliament to the Colonies were not 
justly divided, the agent said, among other things, in 
the way of reply, that the New-Englanders had "in a 
measure become the Swiss of the continent, in which 
quality they are not unacceptable."^ In fact, this year 
Massachusetts had every fifth able-bodied man in the 
field. 



(1) — Smith, Vol. ii.26L (2)- 



88 COLONIAL DAYS. 

It is true that the figures have been used to show 
that New York at this time contributed her full quota. 
Yet, in a crisis like that of 1755, there was no time to 
talk of quotas. The knife of the savage was at her 
throat, but there was no popular uprising ; while 
Governor DeLancey, who affected considerable zeal, 
contented himself by sending the home government 
the preposterous story that New York had furnished 
three thousand men for Shirley's expedition to Niag- 
ara. It has been said that if the New-England men 
did the fighting they were 2jaid for it. But if they 
were paid they were not paid by New York. It 
would be every way unjust to view the New-England 
troops as mercenaries. " Come," said Pomeroy, who 
represented the true spirit of New England, " come to 
the help of the Lord against the mighty ; you that 
value your holy religion, and your liberties, will spare 
nothing, even to one half of your estate." 

During the months of October and November, the 
troops were engaged in building a fort on the site now^ 
occupied by the Fort William Henry Hotel. It was 
named in honor of the Duke of Cumberland, brother 
of George III. 

About this time a series of scouting expeditions 
was commenced. They were continued at intervals 
for two or three years. These expeditions were 
chiefly conducted by Rogers and his Rangers. He 
was often accompanied by Israel Putnam, who, in the 
Revolutionary army, ranked next to Washington. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 89 

October 14, Rogers, Putnam, and a soldier named 
Butterfield, embarked from Fort William Henry in a 
birch canoe for Crown Point, then in possession of the 
French. They landed nine miles from the outlet of 
the lake, and then travelled on foot to the vicinity of 
the fort where they lay in ambush. "At length," they 
say, "a fi-enchman Came out Towords us without 
his Gun and Came within fifteen Eods of "Where we 
lay then I with another man Run up to him In order 
to Captivate him — But he Refused To Take Quorter 
so we Kill,d him and Took of his Scalp in plain sight 
of the fort then Run and in plain viev/ about Twenty 
Rods and made our Escape."^ 

Such is the account signed by Rogers and Putnam ; 
yet it is hard to believe that an unarmed man would 
refuse to take quarter, under the circumstances. We 
must rather put it down as one of those barbarous 
acts in which Rockers deliirlited. 

One Captain Doolittle reports that he went on a 
scout to Ticonderoga, October 24, 1755, and that 
" after a tedias march over hills and holes we Indeav- 
oured to Disscover ye french on this side ye Carrying 
Place but Could not hear of any of ye Choping or 
Shooting or Druming we went Down To the lake but 
Could not Disscover them." Crossing over to Ticon- 
deroga he saw the French from a distance " light up ye 
fires and Beat ye Drums there appears to be about 

(1) —Doc. Hist. N. Y., Vol. i. p. 175. 



90 



COLONIAL DAYS 



150 Tents [and] some small Boarden Ilousen." He 
afterwards attempted other observations, but a thick 
fog set in and "our Provision being spent Could 
tarrey no Longer God knows whether we Ever Get 
home if we Do I would Humbly Present these few 
Lines to Gen}. Wm. Johnson."^ This gives a fair 
idea of the literary character of these re])orts. 

October 29, while the autumnal foliage of the lake 
was still in its glory, Robert Rogers and Israel Putnam 
went down the lake on a scout. On the 01st they 
" made a Disco vry of a nomber of fires By night Scit- 




r O R T W I L L I A 31 HENRY IN 1 : 



uated on a Point of Land on ye West Side of ye 
Lake," upon Avhich they landed half a mile distant on 
the same side. The next morning they sent spies, who 
found four tents and some fires, whereupon Rogers 
sent back to Fort William Henry for reinforcements. 
He then took a boat and went down to within twenty- 
five rods of their fires, and discovered " a Small Fort 
with Several Small Log Camps within ye Fort which," 

(1) — Doc. Hist. N. York, Vol. iv. p. 175. 

* The above view was cut by a soldier with a knife on a powder- 
born, now in possession of tlie Maine Historical Society. It is a rudo 
sketch, but doubtless correct. The island is Tea Island. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 9I 

he says, " I Judged to Contain about 1-4 of an acre. 
Said Fort being open towards ye Water The rest 
Picketted." The next morning, Putnam, who had also 
gone over to reconnoitre, returned and reported that 
the enemy's sentry was posted twenty reds from their 
fires. Putnam went forward until he came " so ni<>-h 

o 

that he was fired upon by one of ye Centeries within 
a Rod of him, But unfortunately upon Preparing to 
Fire upon him fell into a Clay Pit and wett his Gun 
made ye Best retreat he was able, hearing ye Enemy 
Close to their Heels."^ Afterwards the French rallied 
and endeavored to bring the English between a cross 
fire on the lake, but the latter detected the ruse, 
launched their batteaux, and opened a fire with the 
swivels or "wall peices," which were mounted on 
board. This had the desired effect, and " divers " of 
the French were killed. Putnam, who at this junc- 
ture was on the shore, was in great danger again, but, 
hurriedly launching his batteau, he joined the rest of 
the party, though not before the enemy, who made him 
a special mark, had " Shot thro' his Blanket in Divers 
Places." Finally, the English " put ym to ye Bush." 
When they " Got fairly into ye Lake," says the 
report, we " Lay upon Our Oars and Inquired after 
the Circomstances of ye Party. Found none Killed, 
but one Wounded which Gave Joy to all of us after 
so LonjTj an Ensjascement which I Judsje was near 2 

(1) — X. York Doc. Hist., Vol. iv. p. 17o. 



92 COLONIAL DAYS. 

Hoiirs."^ Putnam was now in training for the great 
work that he was afterwards to do in the War of the 
Revolution. 

The report of James Connor of Colonel Cockcroft's 
regiment, who went on a scout November 5, shows 
the location of the stockaded fort which was the scene 
of Putnam's adventure. It appears that the French 
had now posted their advance guard on the east side 
of the Narrows. Connor found their fires on the night 
of November 5, when he fell back four miles and 
passed the next night in the mouth of a " little creek " 
on the east side — probably Shelving Fall Creek. 
The next day he went with two men over the hills on 
the east side of the lake, until he came opposite the 
fort on the west side, where the lake was about three 
hundred yards wide. Here they saw the French 
come down to the water and carry up timber on hand- 
spikes to the encampment, where they heard " work- 
men chopping and hammering," and saw "a breastwork 
round their encampment with pickets."^ 

This was probably what is called Friend's Point, 
near Anthony's Nose, at least if their estimate of dis- 
tances is correct. Connor says that he built a fire on 
an island twenty miles from Fort William Henry, 
though, according to his own statement, this island 
must have been south of the Narrows, which are only 



(1) — N. York Doc. Hist., VoL iv. p. 176. 

(2) — N. York Doc. Ilist., Vol. iv. p. 178. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 93 

fourteen miles from the lieacl of the lake. But his 
account is not perfectly clear, and possibly the location 
of the fort in question was at the more advantageous 
})osition afforded by Sabbath Day Point. 

The scouting was carried on by the use of boats 
mitil the lake was frozen over, when it was continued 
by parties going over the ice with snow-shoes and 
sleds. 

In 175G the Earl of Loudon assumed the command 
of the English forces in North America. His plan 
contemplated a general attack upon the Canadas. 
One portion of his army was designed to move against 
Niagara ; another was to attack Fort du Quesne ; a 
third was to cross the country from Cambridge and 
operate on the river Chaudiere, while the fourth was 
to attack Crown Point. In accordance with this plan, 
^ix thousand men were assembled near the head of 
Lake George to attack the latter position. The colo- 
nial authorities gave the command of this force to 
General Winslow, before Loudon reached Xew York ; 
but when this came to his knowledge, he wished to 
supersede Winslow by Abercrombie, who was one of 
the re2:ular officers. Before this and similar disputes 
could be settled, the season passed away, and the 
troops were sent back to Albany and New York. 

It is universally conceded that Loudon was a weak 
and inefficient commander, and totally disqualilied for 
the position in which favoritism jjlaced him. If 
remarkable for anything, it was for his insoWice and 



94 COLONIAL DAYS. 

tyranny, of the which the citizens of New York had 
no small experience. Franklin, in his Autobiog- 
raphy,^ gives us a view of his character. It appears 
that Franklin had occasion to vis-it Lord Loudon's 
office in New York, where he met a Mr. Innis, who 
brought the despatches of Governor Denny from 
Philadelphia, the answer to which he expected the 
next day. Meeting him a fortnight afterwards, Dr. 
Franklin expressed his surprise because he had not 
returned. Mr. Lmis explained that he had called 
every day, but the despatches were not ready. " Is it 
possible," said Franklin, "when he is so great a 
writer ? I see him constantly at his escritoire." 
" Yes," said Innis, " but he is like St. George on the 
signs ; always on horseback, but never rides forward." 

At one time Loudon had no less than fifty thousand 
troops under his command, of which large number 
fifteen thousand were from the Old Bay State, then 
not at all in danger. With this force, an able com- 
mander might have crushed out the entire population 
of Canada ; and yet nothing was done for the country. 
This season, however, there was, as usual, more or 
less scouting, with frequent attacks by the French and 
Indians upon the English teamsters. 

July 7, Eogers, being down the lake with his 
Rangers, took several French prisoners. This hard- 
hearted wretch coolly Fays in his official report, that 

(D — Sparks' Life, p. 219. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 95 

" one of the wounded could not march ; therefore put 
put rai end to him to prevent discovery/'^ The cir- 
cumstances of the case fully prove that this barbarous 
act admitted no justitication. 

July 18, Rogers went into the camp, near Sara- 
toga, " with eight captives and four scalpsJ"^ 

Cut though Loudon did nothing during the summer, 
the cold season was not allowed to pass in quiet. 
March 18, 1757, a force of French and Indians under 
liigaud, attempted to surprise Fort William Henry. 
After a careful examination of the position, Rigaud 
found that, owing to the vigilance of the garrison, it 
Avould be impossible to storm the fort. Accordingly, 
he turned his attention to the destruction of the bat- 
teaux and other vessels, in which attempt he was, at 
first, not very successful. The next day he invested 
the fort on all sides, and called upon the commander 
to surrender, which he refused to do, sayiiig that he 
should defend himself as long as possible. On the 
next night the French again resorted to the U£e of 
fire, and as the English opposed them with only a fev/ 
shot and shells, they succeeded in burning more tlian 
three hundred batteaux, besides three sloops that were 
caught in the ice, and a storehouse filled with provis- 
ions and munitions of war. The absence of wind on 
that niiiiit saved the fort itself from destruction. The 



(1) — Doc. Hist., Vol. iv. p. 185. 

(2) — From the unpublished MS. Journal of the Rev. John Graham, 
Chaplain to the Connecticut troops. 



96 COLONIAL DAYS. 

next two nights tlie snow prevented all operations. 
On the 2 2d a final attempt was made npon a new 
sloop on the stocks, and whose bowsprit touched the 
bastion of the fort. In this they w^ere successful. 
They also burned two other storehouses full of provis- 
ions, the hospital, a saw-mill, and more than twenty 
buildings.^ On the 23d they decamped with a large 
amount of plunder. 

Stark was in the fort at the time, and doubtless 
rendered good service ; but the dramatic story of his 
saving the garrison from surprise, which is told in his 
Life, has no foundation in fact. The French did not 
attempt any assault, nor did they cut holes in the ice 
to dispose of the bodies of their slain, as that narrative 
claims.^ 

Emboldened by Rigaud's success, and influenced by 
the withdrawal of a large portion of the troops from 
the vicinity of the lake, who had been ordered away 
to Louisburg to share in the miserable failure of Lord 
Loudon, the commander-in-chief, Montcalm, deter- 
mined to make one more attempt against Fort William 
Henry. Accordingly, on the 12th of July following, 
an army of nine thousand French and Indians, under 
Montcalm, left Montreal, fully equipped and with a 
formidable train of artillery. 

The best account of the expedition is given by an 
eye-witness, Father Iloubaud; who attended the Abc- 

(1) — Col. Doc, Vol. X. p. 571. 

(2) — Slark's Jlcnioir of John Sl.irk. p. 20. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 97 

liakis Indians as their priest and adviser. He says in 
liis journal:^ "We traversed the length of Lake 
Champlain, where the dexterity of the Indian furnished 
us with an amusing spectacle. Standing up in the 
bow of his canoe, with spear in hand, he darted it with 
wonderful address, and struck the large sturgeons, 
without their little skiffs, which the least irregular 
motion would have overturned, appearing to lean 
in the slightest degree to the right hand or the left. 
. . . The fisherman alone laid aside his paddle, but in 
return he was charged to provide for all the others, 
an office in whose duties he fully succeeded." 

At the end of six days they came in sight of the 
fortifications at Ticonderoga, which place had been 
appointed as a general rendezvous for the forces. As 
the Indians approached the shore, they arranged them- 
selves in the order of battle, each tribe under its own 
ensiixn. " Two hundi^ed canoes thus formed in beau- 
tiful order," he says, "furnished a spectacle that caused 
even the French officers to hasten to the banks." 

While the army lay at Ticonderoga, several prelim- 
inary engagements occurred on Lake George. 

July 21, M. de St. Ours,^ who was scouting at 
Me a la Barque, with ten men, was attacked by five 
English barges, each carrying sixteen men. There 
were also one hundred English on the shore. Yet 
St. Ours made so good a defence that he was able to 

(1) — Kip's Early Jesuit Missions, p, li4. 

(2) — Col. Doc, Vol. X. p. 594. 



98 COLONIAL DAYS. 

escape with the loss of four — three slightly, and one 
mortally, wounded. The English loss, though exag- 
gerated by the French, was probably considerable. 
This took place at Harbor Island, a little south of 
Sabbath Day Point. 

July 23, M. Marin, who had been sent toward 
Fort Edward with one hundred and fifty men, mostly 
Indians, attacked the English outposts, and inflicted 
considerable loss, returning to Ticonderoga in safety, 
with no less than thirty-two scalps.-^ 

July 2G, Colonel John Parker, of the New Jersey 
regiment, was sent down the lake to reconnoitre, with 
a large party of men in boats. He was severely 
defeated, his force being completely cut in pieces. 
The French report says that about four hundred 
Indians, under M. de Carbiere, lay in ambush among 
the islands above Sabbath Day Point, and that when 
Colonel Parker's party had advanced too far to reteat, 
they attacked and defeated them with great slaughter. 
Only two barges escaped, and one hundred and eighty 
of the English w^ere taken prisoners. This w^as 
acknowledged to be a severe disaster.- No less than 
a hundred and thirty-one were killed outright by the 
savages, who pursued them by land and water, merci- 
lessly cutting them down. Only twelve were so fortu- 
nate as to escape both captivity and death. The 
prisoners were treated by the Indians with the most 

(1) — Col. Doc, Vol. X. p. 591. 

(2) — ib., 591. Tenn's Archives, iii. 472. Kip's Early Jesuit?, p. 1.j2, 



I 

I 



COLONIAL DAYS. 99 

horrible barbarity. Father Roubaud, who gives an 
account of their atrocities, hardly dared to raise his 
head, expecting to see the English murdered before 
his eyes. Eventually his fears proved too true, and 
he was obliged to witness a spectacle more horrible 
than anything he had yet seen. lie writes : " My 
tent had been placed in the middle of the camp of the 
Outaouacs. The first object which presented itself to 
my eyes on arriving there, was a large fire, Avliile the 
wooden spits fixed upon the earth gave signs of a 
feast. There v/as indeed one taking place. But, O 
heavens ! what a feast ! The remains of the body of 
an Englishman was there, the skin stripped off, and 
more than one half the flesh gone. A moment after, 
I perceived these inhuman beings eat with famishing 
avidity of this human flesh; I saw them take up this 
detestable broth in large sj^oons, and apparently with- 
out being able to satisfy themselves with it. They 
informed me that they had prepared themselves for 
this feast by drinking from skulls filled with human 
blood, while their smeared faces and stained lips gave 
evidence of the truth of the story. What rendered it 
more sad was, that they had placed very near them 
some ten Englishmen to be spectators of their infamous 
repast." 

The good man was powerless in the midst of these 
barbarities, and his appeals in behalf of the prisoners 

(1) — Kip's Early Jesuits, p. 155. 



lOO COLONIAL DAYS. 

were met by threats or gibes, the savages in one 
instance replying by offering him a piece of broiled 
human flesh. The prisoners were finally taken out of 
their hands by Montcalm, and sent under guard to 
Montreal. 

On the first of August the main body of the army 
finally embarked on Lake George, the Chevalier Levi 
having marched, three days previous, down the west 
side of the lake, with a force of three thousand men, to 
protect those who were to follow on the water. The 
barges moved at two o'clock, P. M., and continued on 
until they left " Bald Mountain," (Rogers Slide) " to 
the north." Afterwards they " doubled a cape," 
(Anthony's Nose) and remained there during a severe 
storm which lasted six hours. They also " tarried a 
short time opposite to the Sugar Loaf." Father 
Roubaud says that they had not gone more than four 
or five leagues before they saw the proofs of their 
victory of the 24th. He writes : " There were the 
abandoned English boats, . . . but the most striking 
spectacle was the great number of the dead bodies of 
the English." Some were lying on the banks, and 
others were floating in the water. 

The next morning at daybreak. Father Roubaud 
reached "the Bay of Ganasouke," (Northwest Bay, 
near Bolton,) and landed near de Levi's camp. At 
10 o'clock de Levi marched forward, and at noon 
IMontcalm moved on in the boats, now with the artil- 
lery in the van. In the evening two boats came down 



COLONIAL DAYS. lOI 

the lake from Fort William Henry, while the fleet 
was quietly winding along the dusky shore of " Sandy 
Bay." The English, perceiving the beat which be- 
longed to the priests, then covered by an avrning, 
steered for it unsuspectingly, as if too see what it was. 
As they approached, a sheep in the boat happened to 
bleat, when they took the alarm and endeavored to 
escape. The silence with which these operations had 
been conducted now ended, and twelve hundi^ed sava- 
ges suddenly flew to the pursuit, uttering the most 
horrid cries. The English first gained the land, 
deserted their boats, and fled to the woods ; but not 
until four of their number had been killed and two 
taken prisoners. Father Roubaud says that when 
the account of the aifair came to Montcalm, he was 
" charmed with the detail," and retired to make his 
plans for the next day. During the night, however, 
the army continued to move on, and reached the bay 
on th3 west side of the lake, near Fort William Henry. 
The artillery did not arrive until daybreak. It con- 
sisted of thirty-two cannon and five mortars, placed 
on platforms and borne on boats. In passing around 
the point, now called Cramer's Point, the batteries 
came in full view of the English, who were saluted by 
a " general discharge," which at " this time was mere 
ceremony, but it announced more serious matters." 

The lake now resounded on all hands with the 
sounds of war, and everything was in motion. Fort 
William Henry, which the French sometimes called 



I02 COLONIAL DAYS. 

Fort George, is described by Father Roubaud as " a 
square, flanked by four bastions ; the curtains were 
strengthened with stakes, the trenches were sunk to 
the depth of eighteen or twenty feet." The walls were 
built of pine trees covered with sand. It mounted 
nineteen cannon and four or live mortars, while the 
garrison consisted of five hundred men. Seventeen 
hundred men occupied a fortified camp on the site of 
the ruins of Fort George. Montcalm landed on the 
west side of the lake, a short distance from the Lake 
House, and planted his batteries about seven hundred 
yards from the fort. He afterwards marched his 
regular troops to a position south of the fort, sending 
LeCorne with seventeen hundred French and Indians 
a little further on, where they could hold the road 
leading to Fort Edward. He then called upon 
Colonel Munroe to surrender, which demand he i^osi- 
tively declined, as he was expecting immediate rein- 
forcements from General "Webb. 

The siege lasted six days, during which time the 
fort was defended with great vigor, though without 
much loss of life on either side. Aid was earnestly 
requested of General AYebb, whose troops were 
anxious to march to the rescue; but that cowardly 
officer finally decided to do nothing, and advised 
Colonel Munroe to surrender, who, seeing the hope- 
lessness of his situation, agreed to capitulate. On the 
morning of August 9, at seven o'clock, a white flag 
was hoisted on the fort, and the surrender was made 



COLONIAL DAYS. 



103 



on the conditions that the garrison and the troops of 
the intrenched camp should march out with the honors 
of war, carrying away arms and baggage, and take 
with them one cannon, out of respect for the gallant 
defence they had made, and be 



sufficient escort to Fort Edward, 
ingly took possession at noon. 



furnished with a 
The French accord- 



Father Roubaud says 
that the terms of capit- 
ulation were submitted 
to the Indian chiefs, and 
that the articles were 
" universally applaud- 
ed." Yet the compact 
was soon violated in 
the most horrible man- 
ner. The Indians were 
thirsting for blood and 
plunder, and even while 
the military ceremony 
of taking possession 
was going on, they 
penetrated through the 
embrasures of the fort 
into the casemates 
■ where the sick re- 
mained who could not march out of the fort with their 
companions. Some of these were among the first vic- 
tims of savage cruelty. Father Roubaud witnessed 




M O X T C A L :M 



I04 COLONIAL DAYS. 

their atrocities. He writes : " I saw one of these bar- 
barians come forth out of the casemates, Avhich nothing 
but the most insatiate avidity for blood could induce 
him to enter, for the infected atmosphere which exhaled 
from it was insupportable. He carried in his hand a 
human head, from which streams of blood were flow- 
ing, and which he paraded as the most valuable prize 
he had been able to seize." " But," he continues, 
" this was only a slight prelude to the tragedy of the 
morrow. Early in the rnorning the Indians began to 
assemble about the intrenchments, demanding of the 
English everything valuable which their greedy eyes 
could perceive. . . Nor were these requirements re- 
jected by the English. They undressed, they stripped 
themselves, to purchase their lives." In the mean- 
while the troops detailed to attend them on the 
march to Fort Edward, arrived and hastily formed, 
and the English began to file out. Says Father 
Eoubaud : " Woe to those who closed the march, or 
the stragglers whom illness or any other reason sepa- 
rated from the main body ! They w ere as good as 
dead, and their lifeless bodies soon covered the ground. 
. . . This butchery, which was at first only the work 
of a few savages, became the signal which transformed 
them into so many ferocious beasts. They discharged 
right and left heavy blows with their hatchets on those 
who came within their reach." 

The number that fell in massacre, which filled the 
public mind with horror, varies greatly. Father Rou- 



I 




COLONIAL DAYS. 



^05 



baud says the number killed did not exceed forty 
or fifty, and adds : " The patience of the English in 
thus being contented to bow their heads to the weapons 
of the executioner, had the effect of shortly stop- 
ping the slaughter ; but," he adds, " this did not 
turn the savages either to reason or equity. With 
fearful cries they engaged themselves in making 
prisoners." 

The most of the accounts of this affair are wild 
exaggerations, the loss by death and captivity being 
placed at from five hundred to fifteen hundred. 
The first victims were the negroes and friendly In- 
dians.^ Speaking of the conduct of the former during 
the siege, one of the gunners wrote that " Our blacks 
behaved better than the whites."- 

It would be difficult to exonerate Montcalm from 
all blame. He might have anticipated the events that 
occurred, and provided a sufficient safeguard. Le 
Corne, indeed, promised much in the way of protec- 
tion to the English, but did little ; and Carver, in his 
journal, mentions one French soldier who repulsed 
the English with abusive language when they appealed 
for protection. Yet it would be unjust to ignore the 
conduct of many of the French officers and soldiers 
who hazarded their own lives to save those of the 
M English. Father Roubaud, the gocd priest of the 



(1) — Iloyt says that one friendly Indian was burned. Ant. Re- 
arches, p. 290. 

(2) — Col. Doc, Vol. vi. p. 1005. 



I06 COLONIAL DAYS. 

Abenakis, was every way true to his profession, and 
labored earnestly to rescue the victims of savage cru- 
elty. Among others, an infant separated from its 
mother, and had fallen into the hands of a relentless 
chief, who threatened it with death, unless ransomed 
by a scalp. This child was saved by the priest, who 
obtained a scalp from the stock of one of his own 
Indians. Father Roubaud, after getting possession of 
the child, carried it in his arms until he secured an 
English woman to act as its nurse. This woman had 
possession of the child but a few hours before its 
mother appeared, and, frantic with joy, clasped it in 
her arms. 

That class of writers who furnish what may be 
called the Apocrypha of history, have delighted in 
wild exaggerations of this event. Drawing their 
material from the crudest sensation accounts of the 
day, they have not hesitated to record as facts the 
most improbable fancies. It is to be regretted that 
these accounts have crept into so many of oiu^ jDopular 
school histories, in one of which, now extensively used, 
Vfe are informed that when Montcalm went away, he 
left the dead bodies of one hundred women shockingly 
mangled and weltering in their blood. The account 
is based upon a supposed letter of Putnam's^ that was 
never written, and is of the same authority as that 
fiivorite but now exploded story of the school-boy, 

(1) — Lossing's Field Book, Vol. i. p. 111. 



COLONIAL DAYS. I07 

which relates Putnam's descent into the wolf's den. 
National enmity has had much to do with these mis- 
representations of Montcalm, who was every way a 
noble and humane man, as well as the ablest general 
of his day in all North America. Yet Smollet, in his 
History of England, did not hesitate to lay upon him 
(in addition to the massacre of Fort William Henry) 
the charge of giving up twenty English soldiers at the 
capture of Oswego, the previous year, to be butchered 
by the Indians. The charge, however, was thoroughly 
refuted at the time by an official investigation. The 
real author of the calamity of Fort AYilliam Henry, 
was Lord Loudon, who left the country exposed to 
the enemy. 

The French delayed at Fort William Henry until 
August 1 6. On the previous night the fort was com- 
pletely destroyed by fire, and while the ruins were 
still wreathed in smoke, Montcalm embarked and 
sailed down the lake. We conclude the account of 
this sad event in the language of Bancroft, who says : 
" The Canadian peasants returned to gather their 
harvests, and the lake resumed its solitude. Nothing 
told that living men had reposed upon its margin, 
but charred rafters of ruins, and here and there, on 
the hill-side, a crucifix among the pines to mark a 



(1) — Bancroft's U. S., Vol. iv. p. 266. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 

CHAPTER VII. \ 

Fathers that like so many Alexanders, 

Have, in these parts, from morn till even fought, 

And sheath'd their swords for lack ol argument. 



y. 



Abercromdie's Expedition — The Preparations — The 
Voyage — The Attack— Defeat — Retreat — Amherst's 
Campaign — Capture of Ticonderoga. 




N THE following year another 
large army assembled at the 



head of the lake for the purpose 
of reducmg Ticonderoga, and 
atoning for the acts of the 
French in the previous year. 
It was commanded by General 
Vbercrombie, who had succeeded 
Lord Loudon. The campaign was 
])lanned with great confidence, and 
w^as inaugurated by scouts and skir- 
mishes. On the 23d of June three 
separate detachments of Rogers' 
Itansrers were sent out on the lake 

o 

to reconnoitre ; and Wednesday 
morning, July 5, at eight o'clock, 
the \\cU-appomted army, now sixteen thousand 
strong, embarked in more than one thousand boats 
and batteaux. The day was one of unusual beauty, 



COLONIAL DAYS. I09 

and scarcely a cloud obscured the sky. The fieet 
was arranged in complete military order. The 
Regulars sailed in the centre, the Provincials on 
the left, and the Light Infantry on the right of 
the advanced guard. The army was composed of 
line and varied material. There was the sturdy, 
brown-faced farmer from Massachusetts and Con- 
necticut, the determined, phlegmatic Dutchman, the 
hardy Englishman, the dashing Green-Mountain 
Boy, and the intrepid Scot. Lord Howe's regiment 
was one of much note, while its young commander 
was the " Lycurgus " of the whole army, being evi- 
dently of much more importance than Abercrombie 
himself. 

The troops moved in high spirits, confident of an 
easy victory. But few more splendid scenes have 
ever been witnessed. The lines of boats adorned 
with streamers and flags, the troops clad in bright 
national colors, the burnished arms, the insignia of 
rank, the placid water, the long banks of oars dipping 
to martial notes, and the bright summer sun shining 
down upon all — formed a display of rare beauty. 
Not the least conspicuous part of tlie pageant was the 
Highland Regiment, of which old Duncan Campbell, 
of Invershaw, was Major. They could not have 
appeared to finer advantage even on their own bright 
Loch Katrine. Moving out from under the shadov/ 
of the French 3Iountain, they sail on towards the 
verdant isles, as if performing some holiday parade, 



no COLONIAL DAYS. 

reminding us of Scott's picture in the Lady of the 
Lake : 

" Now you might see the tartans bravo, 
And plaids and plumage dance and wave; 
Now sec the bonnet sink and rise, 
As his tough oar the rower plies; 
See flashing at each sturdy stroke, 
The wave ascending into smoke; 
See the proud pipers on the bow, 
And mark the gaudy streamers flow 
From their loud chanters down, and sweep 
The furrowed bosom of the deep, 
As rushing through the lake amain, 
They plied the ancient Highland strain." 

The fleet continued on its course all da}'- until dusk, 
when they reached Sabbath Day Point. Here they 
remained until eleven o'clock, waiting for three brig- 
ades and the artillery ; and when these came up all 
moved on. At nine o'clock the next morning, they 
arrived at the foot of the lake, disembarked, and 
marched towards the French outworks. The route 
lay through dense forests ; and being led by unskilful 
guides, the troops fell into some disorder, though still 
able to move on. Lord Howe led the right centre 
column, and when near Trout Brook, encountered the 
party of De Trepazec, less than three hundred in 
number, returning from a scout at Rogers' Slide. The 
French opened fire, and at the first volley Lord 
Howe was killed by a musket-ball. This threw the 
English into still greater confusion, but they rallied 
and attacked the French with such impetuosity, that 
nearly the whole body was either killed, wounded, or 



COLONIAL DAYS. Ill 

made prisoners. De Trepazec bimself was mortally 
wounded. By this engagement the English gained 
nothing, except the forest, in which the principal por- 
tion of the troops passed the night. An officer who 
wrote a letter to a New- York paper, speaks of the 
action as highly discreditable to the English, who 
behaved badly, on the whole, and at one time came 
near being beaten by a mere handful of men. 

The next morning, the 7tli instant, Abercrombie 
withdrew the whole army to the landing-place. Col- 
onel Bradstreet then went forward to rebuild the 
bridges. In the afternoon the main body of the army 
advanced to attack the French works. The assault 
was made with much spirit. Three times the English 
were repulsed, and as often returned to the charge ; 
but '• at the end of four hours, after a series of efforts 
that would have done honor to the soldiers of Ccesar, 
and an exhibition of valor that would have rivalled 
the most romantic days of chivalry," the army, about 
seven o'clock, was ordered to retire, though not before 
the English had fired by mistake upon one of their 
own corps. The night was spent at the landing, and 
Saturday morning the army embarked and rowed 
sadly up the lake, arriving at Fort George on Sunday 
evening, the 9th. No corps suffered more than the 
Highlanders, who, until now, with one exception, — 
the Battle of Fontenoy, in 1745, — had always been 
completely successful. Three times they mounted 
the French works, but not being supported they were 



112 COLONIAL DAYS. 

forced to retire. Gray-haired Duncan Campbell fell 
at the head of his regiment, with John Campbell the 
commander, who was succeeded by Colonel Gordon 
Graham. During the battle, Abercrombie remained 
at a safe distance, and not a single piece of artillery 
was used by the English, who, under a general of 
respectable spirit and capacitj^, would have easily cap- 
tured Ticonderoga. During the day Abercrombie 
ordered a movement against the enemy's left wing ; 
but, after several boats had been sunk by the artillery 
of the French, the attempt was given up. This was a 
point that the most careful writers have failed to notice.^ 

This inglorious campaign was not terminated, how- 
ever, before Colonel Bradstreet marched from the 
lake with twenty-seven hundred men and destroyed 
the French forts at Frontenac. When this had been 
accomplished, Bradstreet returned to the lake, and the 
bulk of Abercrombie's army went into winter quarters 
at Albany, New York, and elsewhere. 

The next year Abercrombie was removed, and Lord 
Amherst was appointed in his place. This able gen- 
eral accomplished the reduction of Ticonderoga with 
but little loss of life. Before the campaign opened, 
Rogers was active on the lake with his Rangers. 
March 3, he left the head of the lake with three hun- 
dred and fifty-eight men, and proceeded on the ice to 
the Narrows, and afterwards went on to Ticonderoga. 
Tlierc he suffered a severe defeat from the French 

(1) — N. Y. Col. Doc, Vol.x. p. 84.1. 



COLONIAL DAYS. 1 13 

and Indians, and returned by the way of Sabbath Day 
Point to Long Island, about five miles from Fort 
William Henry. At this place he encamped on the 
night of the 8th. The next day he went to Fort 
Edward, carrying the wounded on sleds. 

June 21, General Amherst, accompanied by Gen- 
eral Gage, moved to Lake George with a portion of 
the forces, composed of the Royal Highlanders and 
Provincials, who at once busied themselves in strength- 
ening the camp. 

On the 27th, some officers who were fishing at 
Diamond Island were surprised by the French scouts 
and nearly captured. July 1, troops to the number 
of fifteen hundred, under Colonel Montressor, were 
busy building a stone fort,^ afterwards called Fort 
George, having in the meantime erected a temporary 
stockade. July 2, the enemy was extremely bold, 
notwithstanding the prepai^ations of Amherst. On 
that day sixteen of the Jersey Blues had gone out 
fi'om the fort to get brushwood for the ovens, and 
were attacked by two hundred and forty French, who 
killed and scalped six, wounded two, took four pris- 
oners, and only four escaped. The French raised a 
loud halloo, and displayed the scalps in plain sight of 
the fort, and then ran to their canoes, which were only 
two miles from the head of the lake.^ 

July o, the most of the articles buried by Aber- 
crombie, at the close of the previous season, still 

(1) — Knox Jour., Vol. i. p. 378. (2) — X. Y. Mercury, July 9, 1759, 



114 



COLONIAL DAYS. 



remained undiscovered, though the French had found 
and raised a battery of eight pieces sunk in the lake/ 
July 6, the " Ilalifiix Slooj:),"-^ mounting fourteen guns, 
which had been sunk to prevent capture, was success- 
fully raised. July 12, Major Campbell and four hun- 
dred men embarked in batteaux and "proceeded to 
the islands on the lake to drive the enemy from 







OLD nUT— 1758. 



thence," taking a floating battery of one twelve-pound 
gun. The French were driven away, and their "works 
and huts " destroyed and burned. The name of the 



(1) — "On tho 11th. instant was launched here, in 13 Days from 
laying tlio Keel, the Sloop Earl of Ilalilax, 51 Feet Ivcol, about 100 
Tons Burthen, built by the direction of Commodore Loring and Col. 
liagley. Her rigging being fitted, expected she will sail on a cruise 
on tho Lake, in a day or two." Letter from Lake George, Aug. 21, 
1758. 



r 



COLONIAL DAYS. II5 



islands in. question is not given. The French lost one 
canoe and all the men in it. 
, The preparations for the expedition having been 
made with great care, the army, composed of more 
than eleven thousand men, embarked in whaleboats 
and batteaux, on the morning of the 21st of July, 
and moved down the lake in four columns, the sloop 
Halifax sailing in the rear. The soldiers rowed by 
turns. An incredible amount of labor was spent in 
embarking, and some of the boats proved useless. 
One with a hundred barrels of powder sunk before 
leaving the shore ; likewise a raft with two ten-inch 
mortars. 

At ten o'clock the army reached the Narrows, and 
after pausing a short time, moved on with a fresh 
breeze and a hazy sky. At night the expedition 
moored,^ the weather being rough with " a disagreeable 
tumbling sea." The next day was Sunday, July 23, 
but at daylight the fleet proceeded, and in a few hours 
reached the foot of the lake. The army landed with- 
out delay, and marched for Fort Ticonderoga. They 
reached the enemy's intrenchments after some light 
skirmishing, and the troops lay upon their arms all 
night. In the morning, seeing General Amherst 
drawing up his artillery, and finding that he had also 
launched batteaux in the lake, the French abandoned 
their intrenchments, of which the English took pos- 

(1) — rrobably below Sabbath Day Toint. 



/ 



1 16 COLONIAL DAYS. 

session, m the face of a brisk fire, and began prepara- 
tions for a siege ; but at ten o'clock on the night of 
the 26th, some deserters from the French came in, 
announcing that the enemy had evacuated the fort and 
were retreating. Yery soon after the magazine blew 
up and set the wood-work on fire. The flames rapidly 
communicated with the loaded guns and shell, and for 
a time created a continuous fire. The next morning 
a sergeant went into the fort, at the risk of his life, 
and hauled down the French flag. Thus the fort was 
taken with a loss of only thirty or forty in killed 
and wounded, which might have been done the year 
before. 

But Lord Amherst, though a brave and faithful 
officer, failed to take advantage of his success. Instead 
of moving at once against the French, and to the aid 
of Wolfe, he delayed to repair the works at Ticonde- 
roga and Crown Point, and prepare batteaux, until 
more than two months had slipped away, Avlien the 
season was too far advanced to begin operations. The 
French army was not more than one fourth as large 
as his own, and Montcalm never seriously intended to 
hold Ticonderoga, where it was impossible for him to 
receive reinforcements, and yet they were allowed to 
escape down Champlain. Nevertheless, his victory 
brought comparative jDcace to the shores of Lake 
George, and ultimately removed the contest towards 
the Canadas, so that on September 21, Lieutenant- 
Governor DeLancey issued a proclamation calling 



COLONIAL DAYS. II7 

upon the settlers to return once more to their homes, 
where they lived in quiet until the war of the Revo- 
lution. 

In the meanwhile, many of those who had served in 
the wars applied to the colony of New York for grants 
of land around the lake. Amonsf them was Rosfers 
the Ranger, who, with twenty-five others, applied 
for twenty-five thousand acres of land on the west 
side of Lake George, extending from Fort William 
Henry to Tongue Mountain. It may also be noted, 
that here, in 177G, Rogers, being then a Tory, re- 
newed the application to the British authorities, coolly 
proposiug " Rogers' Mount," as the name of the 
grant. 

April 20, 1773, Mr. Samuel Deall, a merchant of 
New York, who was much interested in building mills 
and improving the lands around Ticonderoga, peti- 
tioned for the exclusive right to establish a ferry across 
Lake George, though the right was not granted. He 
was associated in the improvements here with one 
Lieutenant Stoughton, who was drowned on the lake 
near the close of the year 17G7, when his boat went 
to the bottom wdth all its valuable freight. 

About this time the settlers had become quite 
numerous. As early as 1768, Mr. Deall had a small 
vessel on the lake called the " Petty Anger,"^ which 

(1)— This is probably a mistake of the printer. It should read 
" Pctti-auga," — a small vessel or ship. The following extract from 
Duulap's New York, (Vol. ii,, Appen., p. 177,) gives a correct idea 



Il8 COLONIAL DAYS. 

was designed to traverse the lake, "if any freight 
offers worth going over." It was in charge of one 
John Jones, who lived at Fort William Henry. 

The Indians came here in the summer season in 
considerable numbers, feeling that they had a tolerable 
right to the soil. They were not always peaceably 
tolerated, as appears from the following account of 
Levi Beardsley, who says his grandfather, before the 
Revolution, made annual excursions to the great for- 
ests bordering on Lake George, the favorite hunting- 
ground of the Iroquois. He tells that on one occa- 
sion, "coming near a swampy piece of ground, his 
companion remarked that game was plenty in that 
neighborhood, and asked him to walk with him to the 
edge of the swamp, where some one had shot a large 
buck a few days before. They repaired to the spot, 
where his companion pulled away a few pieces of 
rotten wood, that had been thrown on a large Indian, 
who lay there partly stamped in the mud. I have no 
suspicion," he says, " that my grandfather ever shot, 
or encouraged the shooting of Indians, but it is very 
certain, that he occasionally associated with those v/ho 
indulged in this interesting business. Those times 
were perilous," he continues, " and conflicts frequent 
between the white and red man. . . . They were inev- 

of this class of vessels, in one of which Mr, Vantlerbilt bcjjan his 
career as a Staten-Island ferryman : " A perri augur or petty auga, a 
boat -without keel, with two masts and two large sails, the lack of keel 
supplied by ice-boards — all these managed by one man, who was 
likewise helmsman, and very 'frequently drunk." 



COLONIAL DAYS. II9 

itable, and of no uncommon occurrence ; for it was a 
question whether the red man alone should enjoy the 
game of the country."^ 

The handful of military stationed at Ticonderoga, 
were now chiefly useful in preserving the peace 
among the lawless inhabitants of the New-Hamp- 
shire Grants, which extended as far south as the head 
of the lake. Prominent among the New-Hampshire 
men, who, at times, invaded the territory of New 
York, was Colonel Ethan Allen, who often played the 
part of a swaggering brigand. The fortifications were 
now, also, in a bad condition. In 17G8, Fort George 
was practically abandoned. In April, 1773, the fort 
at Crown Point caught fire, and the magazine, contain- 
ing one hundred barrels of powder, blew up, completely 
destroying the works. The minutes of the Council at 
the close of the following September, say that Ticon- 
deroga was in so ruinous a condition, that there was 
no accommodation for more than about fifty men. In 
1774, Governor Try on reported that " only a few men 
were kept at the south end of Lake George to facili- 
tate the transportation of supplies to Ticonderoga 
and Crown Point ;" from which it appears that the 
British authorities were but poorly prepared for the 
events about to take place. 

(1) — Bcardslcy's Kcmiuisccnccs, p. IG. 

(2) — Doc. nist., N. Y., i. p. 518. 




^.^< 



REVOLUTIONAHY SCENES. 



C II A P T E R A" I I I . 



Fort Georgi: — Nordberg — Sciiuyleu — Sickness — 
BuRGOYXE — Invasion op Northern New York — Peace. 

"Wake, soldier, wake ! — tliy wr.r-liorcc waits 
To bear thee to the battle back. 

ASSING on to the year 
1775, we find the country 
in the excitement of a revc- 
hition, which was inaugurat- 
ed at Lake George by an earth- 
quake, which did no harm. But 
the lake at once became the thea- 
tre of exciting events, as it still 
formed a part of the central route 
between Albany and Montreal. Tlie 
English felt the importance of keeping 
possession of this route, and one of 
their journals of that date says, that, 
m event of its being held by the Americans, the 
British troops would be brought around to New York 
by water, as another campaign could not be thrown 
away in " frog-battles " on the lakes. Yet Burgoyne 
ultimately thought diiferently. 




■REVOLUTIONARY SCENES. 121 

The Americans, however, were on the alert, and the 
New-Englanders resolved on the seizure of Ticon- 
deroga, which w^as the key of the whole position. 
This was accomplished by Benedict Arnold and Ethan 
Allen, on the morning of May 10, without the loss of 
a man. And serious efforts w^ere recently made to 
show that a similar exjDloit v/as performed at Fort 
George, two days afterward. One account, which not 
long since appeared, stated that on the reception of 
the news of the Battle of Lexington, one Daniel Parks, 
of Queensbury, raised a band of volunteers, and after- 
wards marched to Fort George, which, together with 
" Fort Gage," was garrisoned by two companies of 
artillery. On his arrival at the fort his demonstra- 
tions were so impressive as to cause the garrison to 
flee down the lake to Diamond Island, where they 
intrenched. The commander, it appears, was left 
behind, and, on surrendering his sword, is repre- 
sented as telling Parks that his neck would "stretch" 
for " this thing." According to the representations 
given, this alleged action of Daniel Parks was quite 
as meritorious as the capture of Ticondercga. But 
though it may seem a pity to spoil a story, we, never- 
theless, have abundant means for proving the account 
a fabrication. 

It has already been shown that the fort was aban- 
doned eight years before this time, while Governor 
Tryon reported that the year previous only a few men 
lived there to forv/ard supplies ; v/hile " Fort Gage," 



122 II EVOLUTIONARY SCENES. 

the little earthwork on a neighboring eminence, which 
was probably erected in 1759 by General Amherst, 
never possessed a garrison or a gun. The position at 
the head of the lake had at this period lost its former 
importance, and therefore it is not reasonable to suj)- 
pose, that while no effort was made to strengthen 
more commanding posts, Fort George had been rein- 
forced by two companies of artillery. Indeed, this 
was a force superior to all the other garrisons com- 
bined. Besides, the intercepted despatches of General 
Carlton to General Gage, show that the total number 
of British troops in Canada at this time numbered 
only seven hundred and twenty-five, including the 
garrisons at Ticonderoga, Skenesborough, and Crown 
Point. The condition of affairs at the lake, prior to 
1775, v/ould constitute a sufficient denial of the story 
of Parks. 

And the documentary evidence of the year 1775, 
goes to show that everything remained unchanged, 
except that fewer persons lived near the fort. May 
12, there were only two persons at the fort, who v/ere 
engaged in the express business. The fort had no 
commander, but the lake had a nominal " Governor"; 
and the apprehension and dismissal of this person has 
furnished the only ground for the romance of Daniel 
Parks. The person thus treated was Mr. John Nord- 
berg,^ formerly an officer in the English army. In 

(1) — Mr, Nordberg Avas a native of Swedeu, nlierc he Avas born iu 
1710. Favoring the rrcncli faction there, lie Avas pergccutcd, andlclt 



REVOLUTIONARY SCENES. I23 

1774, as a reward for his military services, he was 
appointed " Governor " of Lake George, an ofnce 
without duties. The terms of his appointment left 
him at liberty to reside anywhere in America. At the 
period referred to, lie was living, not in Fort George, 
but in a cottage near by, where, being an old man, and 
an invalid, he passed his time after the manner of a 
hermit, gladly esca])iDg from the political discussions 
of the day. And the records show that Mr. Nor db erg 
was actually visited by a party who went through the 
form of an arrest, but afterwards gave him a passport 
to New Lebanon. The person who took this 
responsibility was Captain Bernard Romans, a 



Sweden. lie entered the Critisli service in January, 1758, as one of 
the foreign officers of the Roj-al Americans. He served in the French 
war, receiving two v.ounds. lie afterwards went with liis battalion 
to the West Indies. In 1773 he went to England, being invalidated, 
bat returned to America the next year as Governor of Lake George. 
May the 12th, {not April, as Governor Tryou says, in Col. Doc, Vol. 
viii. p. 597,) ho was apprehended at his cottage and sent away. De- 
cember 15, the I'rovincial Congress gave him liberty to remove to 
England; but it appears that ho remained in New York, Avherc ho 
died October 9, 1782. See Jour.Trov. Congress of N. Y., Vol. i. p. 220. 
We also find the following in Ilenry's travels at Lake Superior, 1771, p. 
231 : " Mr. Norburg, a Russian gentleman, acquainted with metals, and 
holding a commission in the sixtieth regiment, and then in garrieon 
at Michilimackinac, accompanied us on this latter expedition. As we 
rambled, examining the tliods, or loose stones, in search of minerals, 
Mr. Norburg chanced to meet with one, of eight pounds weight, ot a 
blue color, and semi-transparent. This he carried to England, where 
it produced in the proportion of sixty pounds of silver to a hundred 
weight of ore. It was repositcd in the British Bluseum. The eamo 
Mr. Norburg wau ijhortly afterward appointed to the government of 
Lake George." 



124 REVOLUTIONARY SCENES. 

member of the Connecticut Committee appointed to 
take possession of "Ticonderoga and its depen- 
dencies."^ 

Several writers, in giving an account of the action 
of the Connecticut Committee, state that Romans left 
his associates at Bennington, and did not apjoear until 
he came to Ticonderoga, May 14. Mott says in his 
journal : "•' Mr. Romans left us and joined us no more ; 
we were all glad, as he had been a trouble to us, all 
the time he was with us.''" 

It appears that Romans, finding it impossible to 
manage the other members of the Committee, \vitli 
reference to the surprise of Ticonderoga, decided to 
seize Fort George on his own account. This was 
certainly included in the instructions of the Committee, 
and it was the only thing left him to do, as the sur- 
prise of Skenesborough was already provided for. 
Therefore, without consulting any one, he went to 
the head of the lake, took possession cf what time 
and the weather had left of Fort George, and sent 
away Mr. Nordberg to New Lebanon. 

Romans felt that the capture of an abandoned fort 
was not a thing to boast of, and therefore gave no pub- 
licity to his action. It has never even been mentioned 
in connection with tlie capture of Ticonderoga. 

Daniel Parks may have followed in the train of 
Captain Romans, and may also have been a member 
of the garrison, when it was soon after found necessary 

(1) — Sc3 Appendix. I. (2) — Conn. Hist. Col., Vol. i. p. 109. 



It EVOLUTIONARY SCENES. 125 

to maintain a small force at this point ; but tliat he 
raised troops for the capture of what he knew to be a 
ruinous and deserted work, is not to be sup2>osed for a 
moment. Mott says in his Journal, that they sent 
men " to waylay the roads " leading to " Fort Edward 
and Lake George,"^ for the express purpose oi pre- 
venting alarm in what was, on the whole, a Tory 
neighborhood. Indeed, it has not been proved that 
Parks was on the ground at the time in any capacity. 
Still, there is a monument in the burying-ground at 
Sandy Hill w hich states that he was the man to whom 
the British officer surrendered Fort George. But, as 
shown from the above account, the fort had neither 
garrison nor commander. The story is a myth. 

From a document- never before published, we learn 
the outside cost of the work of Captain Romans, 
which probably was less than thirty shillings. The 
document is also of value, in showing what disj^osition 
Avas made of the British prisoners taken at Ticon- 
deroga. 

Soon after Mr. Nordberg's dismissal, the colonial 
authorities found it necessary to establish a small garri- 
son at Lake George, chiefly for the purpose of forward- 
ing supplies to the troops operating on Lake Champlain. 

May 2-}, it was voted by the Continental Congress 
to leave the authorities of Kew York to decide what 
troops should be stationed at Lake George. May 30, 
New York not having raised any troops, Governor 

(1) — Couu. Hist. Coll., Vol. i. p. 169. (2) — See Appendix. II. 



126 REVOLUTIONARY SCENES. 

Trumbull, of Connecticut, ordered one thousand men, 
under Colonel Ilinman, to Ticouderoga, where four 
hundred of them arrived about the middle of June. 
July 1, there were upwards of one hundred men sta- 
tioned at each end of the lake. 

Major General Philip Schuyler, of New York, hav- 
ing been ajipointed to the command of the Northern 
department, went down Lake George, July 17, 
arriving at Ticonderoga the next morning, when he 
formally superseded Colonel Ilinman, who had pre- 
viously displaced Benedict Arnold from the command. 
We may judge of the degree of discipline which was 
maintained at this time by the following extract from 
his letter to Washington. He writes : 

"About ten, last night, I arrived at the landing- 
l)lace, at the north end of Lake George, a post occu- 
pied by a captain and one hundred men. A sentinel 
on being informed I was in the boat, quitted his post 
to go and awaken the guard, consisting of three men, 
in which he had no success. I walked up and came 
to another, a sergeant's guard. Here the sentinel 
challenged, but suffered me to come up to him, the 
whole guard, like the first, in the soundest sleep."^ 

July 24, there were two hundred and thirty-three 
men of Colonel Goose Van Schaick's regiment, at or 
near Fort George. About this time the soldiers at 
Fort George were in a mutinous condition, and 
suffered greatly for the want of blankets, so that 

(1; — Letters to Washington, Vol. i. p. G. 



REYOLLTIONAKY SCENES. I27 

ceveral of tlieir officers, when visitiDg at Albany, 
professed that they did not dare to return without 
them. 

The operations of the Americans this year were 
conducted by Schuyler and Montgomery. The army 
was supplied with food and war material by the trans- 
ports on Lake George. Early in the campaign 
Schuyler was forced by sickness to leave the field, 
and Montgomery captured Fort St. John and Mon- 
treal. In the attack upon Quebec he failed, after a 
siege of three weeks, which ended in an assault that 
cost his own life, and the surrender of a portion of 
the troops who penetrated into the lower town. The 
remaining portion of the invading army wintered at 
Sillery. On the first of April, 1776, Wooster, who 
had succeeded to the command, made another attempt 
upon Quebec, but failed. Soon after the English re- 
ceived reinforcements, and the Americans were obliged 
to retire. 

A more efficient commander being needed in Can- 
ada, General Thomas was appointed, and his army 
was made independent of the department under Schuy- 
ler. He at once moved toward the scene of action, 
hoping to stay the tide of defeat. April 17, he passed 
down the lake, and the next day forty batteaux started, 
carrying five hundred troops. On the 19th, a person 
at the lake, writing, says : " The whole of the troops 
that are now on the lake and here, will amount to 
upwards of fifteen hundred men ; so that I think we 



128 K E V O L U T I O N A n Y SCENES. 

shall make a very respectable figure before Quebec 
Avlien we all arrive." They never arrived ; and Gen- 
eral Thomas died of the small-pox. 

At this time Benjamin Franklin, Samuel Chase, 
and Charles Carroll reached the lake. They had been 
appointed by Congress, as Commissioners, to 2^1'oceed 
to Canada and negotiate with the authorities there. 
They were accompanied in this mission by the Rev. 
John Carroll, afterwards the Roman Catholic Bishop 
of Baltimore. The account of this trip across Lake 
George is given by Charles Carroll in his journal.^ 
Portions of the journal are of sufficient interest to be 
reproduced here : 

"April 19, 177G. We embarked about one o'clock, 
in company with General Schuyler, and landed in 
Montcalm's Bay, about four miles from Lake George. 
After drinking tea we again embarked, and. went 
about three or four miles further; then landed (the 
sun being set) and kindled fires. The longest of the 
boats, made for transportation of troops over Lakes 
George and Champlain, are thirty-six feet in length 
and eight feet wdde ; they draw about a foot of w ater 
when loaded, and carry between thirty and forty men, 
and are rowed by the soldiers. They have a mast 
fixed in them, to which a square sail or blanket is 
fastened, but these sails are of no use, unless with the 
wind abaft, or nearly so. After w^e left Montcalm's 
Bay, w^e were delayed considerably in getting through 

(1) — Baltimore, 1860. Tublished by the :MaryIand Hist, Society. 



REVOLUTIONARY SCENES. I29 

the ice ; but, with the help of tent-j^oles, we opened 
ourselves a passage through it into free water. The 
boats fitted up to carry us across, had awnings over 
them, under which we made up our beds, and my fel- 
low-travellers slept very comfortably. We left the 
place, where we passed the night, very early on the 
20th. 

" 20th. We had gone some miles before I arose ; 
soon after I got out of bed, we found ourselves entan- 
gled in the ice. We attempted, but in vain, to break 
through it in one place, but were obliged to desist and 
force our passage through another, which we effected 
with much difficulty. At eight o'clock we landed to 
breakfast. After breakfast, the general looked to 
his small boat ; being desirous to reach the landing at 
the north end of Lake George, we set off together ; 
but the general's boat, and the other boat with part of 
the luggage, soon got before us a considerable way. 
After separating, we fell luckily in with the boat 
brino-infj the Montreal and Canada mail. Dr. Frank- 
lin found in the mail a letter for General Schuyler. 
When Ave had weathered Sabaty point, we stood over 
for the western shore of the lake, and a mile or two 
below the point we were overtaken by the general, 
from whom we learned the cause of his delay. Mr. 
Chase and myself went on board the general's boat, 
and reached the landing-place at the south [north] 
end of Lake George, nearly two hours before the 
other boats. Lake George lies nearly north and 



130 K EVOLUTIONARY SCENES. 

south. . . . Its shores are remarkably steep, high, and 
rocky, (particuhirly the east shore), and are covered 
with pine and cedar, or what is here termed hemlock ; 
the country is wild and appears utterly incapable of 
cultivation ; it is a fine deer country, and likely to 
remain so, for I think it never will be inhabited. I 
speak of the shores, and am told that the country 
inland resembles these. 

" The season was not sufficiently advanced to admit 
of catching fish, a circumstance that we had reason to 
regret, as they are so highly prized by connoisseurs 
in good eating, and as one of our company is so 
excellent a judge of this science."^ 

The Commissioners accomplished no good by their 
visit to Montreal, and the party returned by South 
Bay and Fort Edward. 

May 31, General Schuyler was now at the lake, 
having his headquarters at Fort George. About 
this time he was visited by Mr. Graydon, who came 
to the lake to bring money for the troops. Speaking 
of the journey between Fort Edward and the lake, 
he says : " It was almost an entire wood, acquiring a 
deeper gloom, as well from the general prevalence of 
pines, as from its dark, extended covert, being pre- 



(1) — Mr, Carroll writes under date of April 5, when the Commis- 
missioncrs wore ascending the Hudson : " Just before we doubled 
Capo Anthony's Nose, BIr. Chase and I landed to examine a beautiful 
fall of water. Mr. Chase, apprehensive of the leg of mutton being 
boiled too much, was impatient to get on board." 



REVOLUTIONARY SCENES. I3I 

sented to the imagination as an appropriate scene for 
the ^ treasons, stratagems and spoils ' of savage hos- 
tility."! 

He was received at the lake by Schuyler with great 
cordiality and respect, and appears to have heartily 
approved his tactics in dealing with the New-England 
troops under his command. Graydon bears testimony 
to his irritability, but thinks that the New-England 
men deserved the contemptuous treatment which they 
received at his hands, a very striking instance of which 
is recorded. Eventually, however, his policy failed. 
As Greene observes : " New-England men could not 
persuade themselves that the man who, in his official 
intercourse with them, could not command his * peev- 
ishness ' was qualified to command them."^ This 
remark is conceived in the spirit of that ancient decla- 
ration, which teaches that the ability to rule one's 
spirit is a truer mark of greatness than the capacity 
to take a city ; yet, if mutual forbearance had been 
exercised, Schuyler might, perhaps, have continued in 
command of this department to the end, and finally 
achieved the victory that afterwards crowned the 
efforts of Gates. 

A polished gentleman of the old school. General 
Philip Schuyler carried all his high-bred courtliness 
into the camp, where he found it difficult to recognize 
the worth of those New-England men, who, at times, 

(1) — Memoirs, p. 142. 

(2)— Life of General Greene, Yol. i. p. 433. Graydon, p. 143. 



132 REVOLUTIONARY SCENES. 

like many of their fellow patriots of New York, pos- 
sessed noble and disinterested natures, veiled under a 
rude garb and ordinary mien. Hence, the mutual 
dislike and open hostility which afterwards had so 
much to do in removing this able soldier and wise 
statesman from the command of the Department of the 
North. 

But let us not anticipate events. July 17, General 
Gates, who, a month previous, had succeeded Thomas 
in command of the army, which had now been driven 
far out of Canada, issued an order from his head-quar- 
ters at Ticonderoga, forbidding " the wanton waste of 
powder " at Fort George. Powder was at this time 
scarce, and a rebuke was perhaps needed, yet Gates, 
having entered the department of his superior, had no 
authority to administer it. Nine days before, the ques- 
tion of jurisdiction had come up in Congress, and the 
decision was against Gates, who was ordered to act in 
harmony with Schuyler, and restrict the use of his 
authority to his own immediate command. 

October 1, Schuyler wrote to General Gates, saying 
that a blow at Fort George was probably meditated 
by the English, to destroy the communications of the 
American forces, and recommended a reinforcement. 
No harm came, however; yet in the following No- 
vember the New-York Committee of Safety wrote 
that tlie Tories had a plan to seize and hold Fort 
George, in connection with the Indians and Cana- 
dians. This, likewise, was simply an ungrounded 



Tl E V O L U T I O N A Pt Y SCENES. I33 

fear, as on the ninth of the same month General 
Gates writes somewhat tartly to Colonel Gansevort, 
because he kept the boats and provisions at Fort 
George, and sent forward no flour, telling him that 
" there is not an enemy within a hundred miles of the 
post." 

Several writers have statfed that about this time 
a severe battle was fought by a party of Amer- 
ican militia of Saratoga county,^ who met a band of 
Tories and Indians near Sabbath Day Point, when 
the former achieved a victory. Yet this story does 
not appear in print until a very recent date. The 
following jDaragrapli from Mr. Neilson's little book 
on Burgoyne's campaign, contains the 07ily authority 
found thus far. He says, speaking of events at this 
time, " My [step] grandfather, at the head of fifty 
men, had a desperate encounter with about eighty 
Indians and Tories at Sabbath Day Point, in which 
the enemy were defeated, with a loss of forty killed 
and wounded."^ 

Unfortunately, however, the chronicles of the day, 
which gave minute accounts of every skirmish, say 
nothing whatever either about such an engagement or 
victory. The only traces found by the author, of a 
conflict at this place appear in a fragment of a manu- 
script letter now in the State archives at Albany. It 
was written by " J. Deane, Indian Interpreter " to 

(l) — Lossing's Field Book, Vol. i. p. 116. 
(2)— Burgoyne's Campuign, p. 85. 



134 K E V O L U T I O N A li Y SCENES. 

General Schuyler, and bears date of June 25, 1777. 
In the course of his remarks he speaks of " the war- 
riors of Aghmejasne, who took a party of our j^eople 
at Sabbath Day Point."^ In the absence of reliable 
testimonj^, we shall therefore feel obliged to receive 
with extreme caution Nelson's account of a victory 
at the above place. Lossing repeats Nelson's story, 
but gives no authority. So important an engagement 
would certainly have been mentioned in some docu- 
ment or newspaper of the day.^ 

It would be improper to pass over this year with- 
out speaking of the severe sickness which prevailed. 
When the army under Gates was obliged to retreat 
up Champlain to Ticonderoga, the sick were trans- 
ported over Lake George to the hospitals established 
around the fort at its head. This site was selected on 
account of its genial atmosphere and general advan- 
tages. On the 14tli of July there were no less than 
three thousand sick men lying at this place,^ many 
of whom were suffering from small-pox and typhus 
fever. Between the 12th and 2Gth of July, fifty-one 
men were here consigned to the grave. "What is now 
the village of Caldwell was one great charnel house. 
The circumstances were rendered worse by the fact, 
that ihe hospitals were extremely destitute of all those 
means and appliances which in our own day go so fiir 

(1) — Miss. Papers, 1777, Vol.xxxviii. p. 20. 

(2) — The author has not been able to learn even ihc name of the 
person who commanded in this alleged fight. 

(3) — American Archives, Vol. i., Scries v. pp. 232-237-651. 



REVOLUTIONARY SCENES. I35 

to alleviate human misery. The sufferings cf the 
troops at Valley Forge could not be compared with 
the misery of our patriotic troops on the shore of this 
beautiful lake. 

Among those prostrated by disease and borne to 
this place, was General James Wilkinson, afterwards 
the co-laborer of Aaron Burr, and Baron de Woedtke.^ 
Wilkinson says : " There at Fort George, in spite of 
medical aid, I was reduced to the last extremity ; every 
hope of my recovery had expired ; I w^as consigned to 
the grave, and a coliin was prepared for my accommo- 
dation."^ Yet he recovered from this sickness, and in 
course of time the diseases abated, and the hospitals 
were cleared, though too many of them had been 
rendered tenantless by Death. . 

Towards the close of the season, Trumbull passed 
up the lake from Ticonderoga, in a boat with General 
Gates, under whom he was serving as adjutant-gen- 
eral. He gives in his journal a beautiful picture of a 
mountain on fire, a scene well adapted to impress the 
mind of the embryo artist, who was about to lay aside 
the sword for the mahl stick. He writes : " My taste 
for the picturesque here received a splendid gratifica- 
tion. Some of the troops who had passed before us 

(1) — Baron dc Wocdtkc was many jcars an officer in tbo Prussian 
army. Uc came to America, and March 16, 1776, "vvas appointed 
brigadier-general, and ordered to Canada. lie died at Lake (jeorge, 
at about the close of July, and was buried with the honors duo to his 
rank. "Washington's Writings, Vol. iv. p. 6. 

(2) — Memoirs, Vol. i. p. 86. 



136 K j: y o l u t I o n a u y scenes. 

had landed on the west shore of the lake and lighted 
fires for cooking. The season was cold and dry — 
the leaves had fallen in masses — the fire had extended 
to them, and spread from ledge to ledge, from rock to 
rock to the very summit, where it was from seven 
hundred to a thousand feet high. In parts the fire 
crept along the crevices of the rock; at times an 
ancient pine tree rose up a majestic pyramid of flame ; 
and all this was reflected in the pellucid surface of the 
lake, which lay like a beautiful mirror in the stillness 
of the dark night, unruffled by the oars of our solitary 
boat, and these were frequently suspended that we 
might enjoy the magnificent scene."^ 

Winter closed in gloomily upon the country, as well 
as upon the lake. About New-Year's day, the lake 
was frozen over, and navigation ceased. The cold 
season passed away without any event of importance 
occurring in the various garrisons. But when the 
of 1777 opened, the whole aspect of affairs underwent 
a change. 

In order to render the operations of the army 
more effective, Congress, May 22, confirmed General* 
Schuyler in his command, and added to his former 
jurisdiction, including Ticonderoga, Fort Stanwix, 
Albany, and their dependencies.^ Thus Gates was 
put out of the field. General St. Clair was then 
placed in command at Ticonderoga. Eventually, that 

(1) — Trumbull's Rcmiuiscenccs, p. 37. 
(2) — Journal Congress, Vol. iii. p. 183. 



R T:. V O L U T I O N A R Y SCENES. T37 

officer, acting on his own responsibility, decided, in 
view of the impending peril, to evacuate the post. 
For this act Schuyler was severely blamed, yet he 
was in no wise responsible ; while St. Clair himself 
was afterwards fully acquitted by a military court. 
The day after the evacuation of Ticonderoga, Schuyler, 
writing to Washington from Fort Edward, says, " I 
have not been able to learn what is become of Gen- 
eral St. Clair and the army."^ 

St. Clair executed this movement on the night of 
July G, sending one regiment and the sick to White- 
hall, while the rest of the troops marched by the new 
road through the woods to Hubbardstown. The Brit- 
ish, under General Frazer, took possession, and thus 
the evacuation of all points on Lake George became 
necessary. St. Clair's retreat having become known, 
preparations were made in season to leave Fort 
George ; and wdien the Americans deserted that work 
they took all their baggage and stores, and set the 
fort on fire. The match was applied July IG, and / 
Major Yates marched away to Fort Edward, with 
seven hundred men. Burgoyne, who was then mov- 
ing victoriously southward, thus writes of the affair : 

" The garrison of Fort George in manifest danger 
of being cut off by the direct movement from Skenes- 
borough to Hudson's River, took the measure I ex- 
pected of abandoning the Fort, and burning the vessels, 
thereby leaving the lake entirely free. A detachment 

{!)— ^7asbington's Writings, Vol. iv. p. 491. 



138 11 EVOLUTIONARY SCENES. 

of the King's Troops from Ticonderoga, which I had 
ordered to be ready for that event, with a great embark- 
ation of provisions, passed the lake on the same day 
that I took i^ossession of this communication by land." 
Schuyler, in his letter to Washington, before referred 
to, says that there were " no carriages to remove the 
stores from Fort George," which he expected would 
be immediately attacked. Yet it appears that Colonel 
Gates found means seven days after to bring away 
every thing in safety. Schuyler also justified the 
giving up of Fort George, on which point AYash- 
ington suspended his opinion, merely remarking that 
others had informed him " that a spirited, brave, 
judicious officer, with two or three hundred good 
men, together with the armed vessels you have built, 
would retard Burgoyne's passage across the Lake for a 
considerable time, if not render it impracticable, and 
oblige him to take a more difficult and circuitous 
route." To this Schuyler replies : " The fort was jiart 
of an unfinished bastion of an intended fortification. 
The bastion was closed at the gorge. In it was a 
barrack capable of containing between thirty and fifty 
men; without ditch, without wall, without cistern; 
without any picket to jirevent an enemy from running 
over the wall. So small, as not to contain above one 
hundred and fifty men, commanded by ground greatly 
overlooking it, and within point blank shot ; and so 
situated that five hundred men may lie between the 
bastion and the Lake, without being seen from tliis 



REVOLUTIONARY SCENES. I39 

extremely defensible fortress. Of vessels built there, 
one was afloat and tolerably fitted; the others still 
upon the stocks ; but, if the two had been upon the 
water, they would have been of but little use, without 
rigging and guns."^ 

The same poor condition prevailed at Fort Edward, 
where Schuyler had only fifteen hundred men, with 
only two pieces of small iron cannon, all the artillery 
having been sent to the southern department by order 
of Washington. We may easily imagine what must 
have been the real state of affairs. An extract from 
a letter wiitten by Governeur Morris to John Jay, 
when at Valley Forge, January, 1780, says: "Our 
troops, — heu miserors. The skeleton of an army 
presents itself to our eyes in a naked, starving con- 
dition, out of heajith, out of spirits. But I have seen 
Fort George,'' he adds, " in the summer of 1777."' 

Lake George being wholly given up by the Amer- 
icans, it now became a part of the British line of 
communication with Canada. Colonel Anstruther was 
the commandant. 

It is almost universally conceded, however, that he 
erred greatly in failing to bring his army by this 
route after the surrender of Ticonderoga. If he had 
done this, instead of moving by the way of South 
Bay, the result would doubtless have been far differ- 
ent. The general plan of the campaign was esteemed 

(1)— Washington's Writings, Vol. iv. p. 494. 
(2) — Life of (jovernour Morris, Vol. i. p. 154. 



T40 REVOLUTTONAP. Y SCENES. 

judicious, and it gained the approval of King George 
himself. But that monarch saw the dangers of South 
Bay, and earnestly recommended the route by Lake 
George. In revising the plan he says : " If possible, 
possession must be taken of Lake George, and nothing 
but an absolute impossibility of succeeding in this, 
can be an excuse for proceeding by South Bay and 
Skenesborough."^ Still, Burgoyne afterwards made 
as good a use of the lake as he was able to, and by 
this route he brought reinforcements and supplies. 
Depots were formed at both Fort George and Dia- 
mond Island, though eventually all of the stores were 
accumulated at the latter place. 

But the British were not allowed to hold the lake 
unmolested. While Burgoyne was busy prosecuting 
his campaign in the direction of Saratoga, an expe- 
dition was sent by General Lincoln to his rear. This 
expedition was placed under the command of the ever- 
active Colonel John Brown, who surprised the out- 
works of Ticonderoga, and met with considerable 
success.^ He then embarked with his forces in some 
captured vessels, and sailed to attack Diamond Island, 
situated within four miles of Fort George. In this 
expedition he failed. The artillery of the garrison 



(1) — Quoted in A]bermarle'sil/e??iories of the Marquis of Rocking- 
ham, (Vol. ii. p. 331) from the original manuscript in the handwriting 
of King George, now in the British Museum. This testimony seems 
to have escaped all of our American writers. The author's attention 
was directed to it by Major-Gencral do Teyster. 

(2) — See Chapter ix. on Ticonderoga. 



K EVOLUTION ART SCENES. I4I 

was SO well served that he was unable to come to 
quarters. The result we may give in Burgoyne's own 
words. He rej^orts : 

" On the 24th instant, the enemy upon Lake George 
attacked Diamond Island in two divisions. Captain 
Aubrey^ and two companies of the 47th regiment 
had been posted at that island from the time the army 
passed the Hudson River, as a better security for the 
stores at the south end of Lake George than Fort 
George, which is on the continent, and not tenable 
against artillery and numbers. The enemy were 
repulsed by Captain Aubrey with great loss, and pur- 
sued by the gunboats under his command, to the east 
shore, where two of their principal vessels were re- 
taken, together with all the cannon. They had just 
time to set fire to the other batteaux, and retreated 
over the mountain." 

Colonel Brown regained Lincoln's camp in safety. 
He afterwards fell a martyr to liberty. He was a 
man of much character and ability, but he was kept 
from advancement by Arnold, who then had the ear 
of General Gates. 

When Burgoyne was defeated and undertook to 
retreat, lie started for Lake George, hoping to escape 
by this route to Canada. But the skill of Gates 



(1) — Thomas Aubrey, second son of Sir Thomas Aubrey, of Glan- 
borganshir, entered the army as ensign in 1762, and served in Florida. 
lie was at the Battle of Bunker Hill, and was made major in 1782, and 
afterwards arose to the rank of colonel. Ho died January 15, 1814. 



142 11 E V O L U T I O N A 11 Y SCENES. 

finally caused liim to capitulate ; and thus Lake 
George once more became absolved from British 
rule. 

Nothing of importance occurred in this vicinity 
until 1780, when Sir John Johnson invaded the north- 
ern part of New York, and marked his track in ashes 
and flames. His object was to recover three barrels 
of silver plate buried in the cellar of his former man- 
sion at Johnstown. He succeeded in finding the 
treasure, which was borne away by forty soldiers, each 
of whom carried a portion in his haversack. Sir John 
was pursued on his return by a force under Governor 
Clinton, who went down Lake George to Ticon- 
deroga, where he Avas obliged to abandon the pur- 
suit. 

Major Carlton improved the occasion of this raid to 
strike a blow at Forts Ann and George. Fort Ann 
was taken October 10. The next day, Carlton, while 
marching against Fort George, was met by a party of 
twenty-five men sent from that place by the com- 
mander, Colonel Chipman, to obtain provisions at Fort 
Edward. They were immediately fired upon by 
Carlton, but managed to escape and return to Fort 
George. Chipman, supposing that it was an enemy's 
scout, sent out all but fourteen of his men, who met 
and engaged the enemy near Bloody Pond. The 
Americans were signally defeated, the whole force 
being either killed, wounded, or taken pi'isoncrs. 
Carlton then hurried to the fort, which v/as oblicred to 



li EVOLUTIONARY SCENES. 143 

caiDitulate. The Americans lost twenty-eiglit men, 
eight vessels, and twenty-eight flat-boats, which were 
in the lake.^ 

With this event military operations on Lake George 
ended. During the war of 1812 they were not 
renewed, as at that time the lake had lost its import- 
ance as part of a great military route. 

For the last eighty-five years Lake George has 
enjoyed all the advantages that flow from peace ; and 
yet it still retains its native wildness. The lack of 
water-power and the lightness of the soil, retard the 
progress of mechanic and agricultural arts ; and the 
shriek of tlie locomotive will perhaps never be heard 
around these shores. As this mountainous country 
will hardly require or admit the use of railroads, the 
stage-coach will hold undisputed sway, and, under a 
wise management, furnish to tourists, who pass by the 
Lake- George route to the Schroon Lake and the 
Adirondacks, a mode of transit that is at once easy, 
expeditious, and safe. 

Lake George may therefore be considered beyond 
the reach of those invasions which have destroyed the 
value of so many American retreats. Elegant villas 
will multiply along its borders, and its romantic isles 
will, in course of time, be crowned with cottages ; yet 
the visitor at the lake will never miss its old and 
exquisite charm, or fail to find retirement and peace. 

(1) — Hough's Northeru Invasion — Washington's Works, Vol. vii. 
p. 269. 



TICONDEEO GA. 

CHAPTER IX. 

Kuins! Ituins! Let us roam. 

Howe's Landing — The Falls — Situation of the Fort 
— Name — Abercrombie — Amherst — Ethan Allen — 
Beaman — Arnold — Localities — A Tradition. 




.VERYONE who visits Lake George 
will, of course, desire to see Ticon- 
deroga. Landing at the north end 
of the lake where Abercrombie 
disembarked, a ride of four miles takes 
the visitor to the ruins of this celebrated fort 
the examination of which, together with neigh- 
boring localities of interest, will consume a 
whole day. The Falls are well worth atten- 
The upper Fall is one mile, and the lower 
two miles, from Lake George. About three- 
Iburths of a mile from the fort the visitor comes upon 
the grass-grown outworks, which are numerous and 
complicated. 

Ticonderoga was called Carillon, a French word, 
meaning a chime, the name being given with reference 
to the perpetual music of the Falls. The idea was 
suggested by the Lidian name Cheonderogo, which 



TICONDEROGA. I45 

in the Iroquois tongue signifies So^mding Water. The 
remains of the fort arc situated on a beautiful penin- 
sula, elevated a hundred feet above Lake Champlain. 
It is a position of considerable strength, being pro- 
tected on three sides by water. It is overlooked, 
however, by Mount Defiance, which is nearly eight 
hundred feet above the lake. 

The first attempt to fortify the position was made 
by Colonel Philip Schuyler, who arrived July 17, 
1691, when on his way to attack the French fort at 
Laprarie. The weather being bad, his party remained 
here several days ; and, being apprehensive of an 
attack from the enemy, they used the time in building 
a " stone fort breast high.''^ 

Kothing more, however, was done until 1755. 
Twenty-five years before, the French had commenced 
the fort at Crown (Scalp) Point, where they evidently 
intended to establish the nucleus of a new colony ; 
and at the above date the walls were in so weak a 
condition that Montcalm thought it advisable to ad- 
vance to Carillon and commence an entirely new 
structure, instead of repairing the old one at the 
former place. Accordingly, he gave the proper orders, 
and the work was commenced, and by the close of the 



(1) — Col. Doc, Vol. iii. p. 902. Palmer suggests that a fort called 
by Captain John Schuyler, "The Little Stone Fort," (Doc. Hist., 
Vol. ii. p. 62). was possibly built by Captain Sanders Glen, "while 
he was waiting there for the advance of W^inthrop's army " in 1790. 
But a careful estimate of the distances will show that this fort could 
not have been situated nearer Ticoudcroga than Crown Point. 



146 TICONDEROGA. 

year 175G, it was well advanced. They liad also con- 
structed tln-ee earthworks between the lakes. The 
stone fort on the east side was a star-shaped worli, 
called Vaudreuil, in honor of the French Governor. 
From this time until the summer of 1759, the French 
labored continually to strengthen their works, which 
were spreading over a large part of the peninsula. 

On Christmas Eve, 1758, Rogers and one hundred 
and fifty of his Eangers surprised the workmen, took 
several prisoners, and killed fifteen beeves. He wrote 
a note addressed to the commander, and placed it 
upon the horns of an ox for delivery. It is given in 
the Paris documents as follows : " I am obliged to 
you. Sir, for the repose you have allowed me to take ; 
I thank you for the meat you have sent me ; I shall 
take care of my prisoners. I request you to present 
my compliments to the Marquis de Montcalm." Some 
time after Rogers met M. Wolfe at Fort Edward, 
whither he had gone to carry despatches to the Eng- 
lish, and the subject afforded some mutual pleasantry. 

Baron Dieskau's troops stopped at Ticonderoga in 
1755, when they were marching to attack the English; 
and also when they returned, broken and defeated. 
This was the rallying-point of Montcalm in 1757, 
before he moved against Fort William Henry. In 
July, 1758, it w\as attacked by Abercrombie, w^ho was 
defeated Avith a loss of two thousand killed and 
wounded. Among the killed was young Lord Howe, 
a grandson of George I. AVlien about to advance, 



TTCONDEPtOGA. 147 

Major Putnam tried to persuade him not to exj^ose 
himself; but he is reported as saying, "Your life is as 
dear to you as mine is to me — I am determined to 
go." He went. 

Before Amherst advanced the following year, a 
party of Rangers attacked the workmen outside of 
the fort, and tried to burn the buildings, but failed. In 
the summer, when Amherst appeared with an army 
of nearly twelve thousand men, Montcalm evacuated 
the place, and retreated down Lake Champlain, leaving 
the English in possession. 

After the defeat of Abercrombie in 1758, and while 
Lord Amherst was preparing to advance upon Ticon- 
deroga, the French had a deep grave dug in the centre 
of their lines, over which was raised a lofty cross,^ 
bearing a brass plate, with the following inscription : 

" Pone principes corum sicut et Zehec et Zalvimma." 

This was at once a braggart prophecy and a prayer, 
for wdiich some over-zealous priest was probably re- 
sponsible. But in the end they all found that Am- 
herst was not exactly Abercrombie, and that he had 
not brought his army down Lake George to have it 
treated like Jabin at the brook of Kison, and like 
those who perished at Endor to fertilize the earth. 
Therefore when Amherst appeared, the soldier strapped 



(1) — Wiirburton's Conquest of Canada, Vol. ii. p. 244. 

(2) — "3Iake their nobles like Oieb, and like Zceb: yea, all tLoir 
princes as Zobah .and Zalmunna." — Ts. Jxxxiii. : 11. 



148 T I C O N 1> E 11 O G A. 

his knapsack, and the priest packed his thurible, cope, 
and pyx, the latter leaving his litany to take care of 
itself. Indeed, Montcalm probably never intended 
to make a stand against Amherst. 

Soon after the capture, Colonel Eyre planned 
another new fortification ; but Colonel Ilaldeman, 
February 15, 17G7, reported the works in a bad con- 
dition ; and September 1, 1773, they were represented 
"• in a ruinous state." Still, nothing was done, and 
the w\ar of the Revolution broke out, finding them in 
the same dilapidated condition. For some time past 
the course of public events had led the New-England 
patriots to view Ticonderoga and its stores of warlike 
material with a covetous eye ; and therefore when the 
time came for action they were ready. 

At daybreak, on the morning of May 10, 1775, the 
fort was surprised and captured by eighty-five men 
from Vermont and Massachusetts, under the joint 
command of Benedict Arnold and Ethan Allen. 
The plan of this surprise was laid with secrecy and 
skill. 

The person who claimed to be the first to entertain 
the plan for taking Ticonderoga, was one William Gil- 
liland, who resided at Willsborough, on the west shore 
of Lake Champlain. In a petition to the Continental 
Congress, he says : " Your memorialist has reason to 
think, that he was the first person who laid a plan 
for and determined upon seizing Ticonderoga, Crown 
Point, and the King's armed vessel, and therewith the 



T I C O X D i: R O G A . I49 

entire command of Lakes George and Champlain."^ 
Yet this claim is put forth under circumstances that 
entitle it to little credit, and it can hardly be enter- 
tained. 

The real originator of the plan was John Brown, 
Esq.,- a lawyer of Pittsfield, Massachusetts. As early 
as February 21, 1775, he received a letter from the 
Boston Committee of Correspondence, of which com- 
mittee Joseph ATarren and Samuel Adams were mem- 
bers, requesting him to visit Canada, and arrange 
for securing the co-operation of the people in the 
cause of Independence. In this mission Brown was 
unsuccessful, but he nevertheless wrote to the Com- 
mittee from Montreal, saying : '' One thing I must 
mention to be kept a profound secret — the fort of 
Tyconderoga must be seized as soon as possible, should 
hostilities be committed by the King's troops." He 
adds, moreover, "The people on Ne.v Hampshire 
Grants have engaged to do this business, and in my 
opinion are the proper persons for the job.'"" Here, 



(1) — AVatson's Cliamplain Valley, p. 175. 

(2) — American Archives, Scries iv. Vol. ii. p. 243. 

(3) — Colonel John Brown was born in Sandisfield, Massachusetts, 
October 19, 1744. He graduated at Yale College in 1771, and after- 
wards practiced law in Tittsfield. lie was at the capture of Chambly 
in 1775; also at Quebec when Montgomery fell. He was at the Battle 
of Bennington in 1777; and was killed, 17S0, on his birthday, at the 
age of thirty-six, in Stone Arabia, New York, during the raid of Sir 
John Johnson. Forty-five Massachusetts men fell in the same action. 
But for the baneful influence ot Benedict Arnold, whom Colonel 
Brown openly denounced, he would have teen promoted at an early 
day. 



150 TICONDEKOGA. 

unquestionably, was the beginning of a work which 
was positively to be done, in case of hostilities break- 
ing out. 

The next movement on record took place in Con- 
necticut. April 27, in the morning, Samuel H. Par- 
sons, of New London, while riding towards Hartford, 
met Benedict Arnold, who informed him of the 
amount of war material at Ticonderoga. On reaching 
Plartford he had an interview with Samuel Willis and 
Silas Deane, and at once decided uj^on action. Three 
other men were afterward joined to their number, when 
they drew three hundred pounds from the i:>ublic 
treasury, promising to expend it for the use of the 
colony, at the same time making themselves personally 
responsible. The same day they despatched Captain 
Noah Phelps and Bernard Eomans to the scene of the 
proposed action, having provided them witli the requi- 
site funds. After Phelps and Romans started, the 
Committee also engaged Captain Mott to go as one of 
the leaders. He left the next afternoon, taking live 
other volunteers with him. At Salisbury, Mott came 
up with Phelps and Romans, when eight new recruits 
were added to the company, which was all they then 
desired. Reaching Pittsfield the next Monday, they 
made known their business to Colonel Easton, and Mr. 
John Brown, in order " to take their advice on the 
same." It was, on consultation, thought best to begin 
to raise more men. Easton and Mott, therefore, 
started for Jericho, while Brown and the rest went to 



TICONDEROGA. 151 

Bennington. Wednesday, ^^ay 3, Mott also readied 
Bennington with twenty-four men. The next Sunday, 
May 7, the company united again at Castleton, the 
intervening time having been consumed in perfecting 
the arrangements. 

In the meanwhile, Benedict Arnold had marched to 
Cambridge with a company from Connecticut. April 
30, in reply to a letter of inquiry, Arnold wrote to 
General Warren, stating what he knew about the 
cannon and stores at Ticonderoga. The same day 
AVarren wrote to Alexander McDougal, of the New- 
York Provincial Congress, saying that it had been 
" proposed " to him to take Ticonderoga. Three 
days later, the very day that Brown, Romans, and 
the others reached Bennington on their way to Ticon- 
deroga, Arnold was commissioned by the Massachu- 
setts Committee of Safety to raise men and proceed 
to take the fort in question. But without waiting to 
raise a man, Arnold started for the scene of action, 
as if informed by Warren of the action of Brown, 
and hoping, perhaps, to find a force prepared to exe- 
cute his orders. He reached Castleton the day after 
the volunteers, who had already assembled, one hun- 
dred and sevent}^ strong, and recognized Ethan Allen 
as their commander. Arnold at once applied for the 
command, by virtue of his commission, but his propo- 
sition, however, was spurned. He then started to 
overtake Allen, who had gone towards the lake. Sub- 
sequently, it appears, an arrangement was effected by 



152 T I C O N D E R O G A . 

which Arnold and Allen were to hold something like 
a joint command. In the meanwhile, the capture of 
Skenesborough was arranged for ; and at the same 
time Bernard Romans, not being able to agree with 
the other members of the Committee, left them to go 
quietly, on his own account, and take possession of 
Fort George. 

By the judicious course of Arnold, harmony was 
restored, and on the night of May 0, the Avhole party 
assembled on the lake at Shoreham, two miles below 
the fort, ready to embark and cross. But this jiroved 
a difficult movement, as the boats were not ready, and 
the wind was high. Arnold crossed with forty men 
and sent back the boat, which did not return until near 
daylight, being delayed by the storm. At this time 
there were only eighty-five Vermont and Massachu- 
setts men on the west shore, and it was proposed to 
wait for the others. This was strenuously opposed 
by Arnold, who declared that he would enter the fort 
alone, if no one had the courage to follow. This had 
the desired effect ; and when Arnold and Allen put 
themselves at the head of the party all were ready to 
move.^ Ethan Allen claims in his Narrative, that he 
improved the occasion to extemporize a speech ; but, 
however that may be, they soon dashed in at the 
entrance of the fort, where they found the sentry, 
who snapped his musket, and then attempted to escape. 
But he was soon made a prisoner, and obliged to lead 

(1) — N. Y. Journal, August 3, 1775. 




'mj y'.i. 



'^* * I ;i|if |ii;f 'iilli^ 



T I C O X D !•: K O G A . 



153 



the party to the quarters of the commander, Captain 
De La Place. An eye-witness testifies that Arnold 
entered the fort first, though Bancroft simply says 
he entered with Allen, keeping emulously at his side. 
Allen beyond question demanded the surrender, 
though we may reasonably doubt his having used the 
language attributed to him. The astonished com- 
mander did not have time to dress himself, says the 
account, before he was summoned to surrender, '•• In 
the name of the Great Jehovah and the Continental 
Congress." Allen^ professed little respect for the 
one, while the other did not then exist, the second 

(1) — Ethan Allen Avas born in the town of Woodbury, Connecticut, 
in 1738. At an early age he settled on the New-IIampshirc grants, now 
a part of the State of Vermont. When the troubles arose in regard 
to the jurisdiction of New York, he took a prominent part in resisting 
the law. He eventually became a sort of liobin Hood He was gen- 
erous and beloved by his friends, but a terror to the partisans of New 
York. The authorities of that State proclaimed him a felon, and 
offered a reward of one hundred and fifty pounds for his apprchen- 
.sion. "When the war of the Revolution broke out, he became promi- 
nent in connection with the capture of Ticonderoga, and afterwards 
used his influence to heal the dissensions between the States of New 
Hampshire and New York. The same year he united with John 
Urown, of rittsfield, Massachusetts, in the attack upon Montreal, and 
was taken prisoner. He was held a prisoner until exchanged in 1778, 
but never afterwards performed any active service. From 1780, to 
Uic close of the war, his sword was sheathed. It is claimed that from 
this period he was engaged in a treasonable movement to attach Ver- 
mont to the King's government. At one time this Avas reported in 
England as accomplished. Allen died in Colchester, Vt., February 13, 
1789, and was buried near Burlington. If we have left Allen less a 
hero than we found him, it is because the study of American history 
is now passing into a new stage, and it is not deemed necessary to 
engage in the indiscriminate praise of every person who happened to 
bear a part in the Itevolution. 



154 TICONDEKOGA. 

Continental Congress not assembling in Philadelphia 
until six hours after the fort surrendered ; and a week 
after — when the news came — the members w^ere 
on the i:)oint of apologizing for this hasty act. It 
therefore seems improbable that he used the language 
in question. The only person who had the semblance 
of official authority was Arnold, without whom the 
expedition possibly might have failed ; and yet he 
could not alone command a bayonet. lie was never- 
theless recognized by the people, who, July 3, pre- 
sented him an address conveying the thanks of the 
representatives of between five or six hundred fam- 
ilies residing on Lake Champlain and vicinity.^ 
Arnold's reply was w^ritten the next day at Crown 
Point. 

It is worthy of notice, too, that the first person to 
receive public credit was Colonel Easton, who is 
represented in Thomas' Oracle of Liberty, May 24, 
as demanding the surrender of the fort. It is there 
stated that Easton " clapped him [De La Place] on 
the shoulder," calling upon him to surrender " in the 
name of America."^ This of course is incorrect, yet 
the statement has a certain significance. The denial 
of Easton's claim was given, August 3," by one of 
Arnold's friends, who, while declaring he was the first 
to enter the fort, does not claim any pre-eminence for 
Arnold as the originator of the plan. Speaking of the 
action of the Connecticut leaders, the writer alluded 

(1) — N. Y. Journal, Aug. 3. (2) — ib. (3) — ib. 



TICONDEROGA. 155 

to simply says that Arnold "concerted a similar 
plan.'-'^ The statement that Arnold entered the fort 
in advance of Allen, has never been denied by any 
sufficient authority. Allen never claimed this par- 
ticular honor, while Arnold reports to the Massachu- 
setts Committee that he was "the first who entered 
and took possession of the fort."^ And his statement 
will readily gain assent when we remember that 
Arnold was a person of unbounded assurance, and 
never allowed any man to go before him. 

From this general statement of facts, it will prob- 
ably appear, to unprejudiced minds, that the plan was 
originally formed by Mr. John Brown, and carried 
out by Vermont, Connecticut and Massachusetts men 
with Connecticut money. New York was informed 
of the design some days before, but gave no aid. Yet 
there were patriots w^ho could applaud the act. Says 
one writer on this occasion : " The public spirit, jDru- 
dence, and enterprising genius of the New-Euglanders, 
will ever be admired."^ 

In tills connection there is one other point that 
demands notice. Jared Sparks, in his life of Allen, 
states that he was guided into the fort by a young 
man named Nathan Beaman. This information, how- 
ever, was received by Sparks verbally, through a 
second person, and he had no sufficient means of 



(4) — N. Y. Journal, Aug. 3, 1776. 

(5) — Force's ArcLivos, Vol. ii. 557 
(G) — N. y. Journal, May 18, 1775. 



156 T I C O N D K II O G A . 

investigating its truth. But Beaman^ afterwards pub- 
lished what he calls a narrative, which shows a most 
remarkable degree of ignorance, and bears its own 
refutation on its face. The account given to Mr. 
Sparks states that his father was not acquainted with 
the ground,^ while his published narrative states that 
he, with his father and mother, dined with Captain 
l)e La Place the very day before the capture, and that 
they spent the whole day on the grounds of the fort." 
But what is more, he states positively that Arnold 
was not at the capture at all, and that " it was some 
days after the capture of the fort that Arnold ap- 
peared."* Such is the man whom IMi-. Sparks brings 
forward to help make American history. Yet it is 
due to that eminent writer to state that he gives the 
source of his information in a note ; and it would have 
been ^vell if the popular writers who copied his 
statement had imitated his example, instead of lend- 
ing themselves to the dissemination of a fraud. 

According to his own finding, Beaman violated all 
the rights of hospitality ; and one capable of such an 
act would not scruple to corrupt history. The most 
charitable thing, therefore, that we can say of Beaman 

(1) — Beaman was a celebrated wolf-hunter, and was engaged in 
the " wolf frauds" of Northern New York. 

(2) — Life of Ethan Allen. 

(3) — See N. Y. Spectator, Feb. 7, 1847. 

(4) — He also says that when Arnold appeared, he met Allen on the 
bridge, tlirown across from Mount Independence to Ticonderoga, and 
that the latter knocked off Arnold's gold-laced hat, which sunk in 
the lake from the weight of bullion. 



T I C O N D E K O Cr A . 157 

is, that he belonged to a class of men who for some 
years lived around the lake, cherishing prejudices that 
had survived the loss of memory, and all the while 
vaingloriously imagining themselves actually to he 
the heroes that, under favorable circumstances, they 
might have been. 

By the capture of Ticonderoga, the American colo- 
nies secured what cost the British jj-overnment eio;ht 
millions of pounds sterling. A good morning's 
work I 

The American forces held Ticonderoga until July, 
.1777. The New- York Committee of Safety had the 
cannon and principal war material removed up Lake 
George, while a portion of the light artillery was sent 
to Massachusetts. When the British commander, 
General Phillips, acting under the orders of Bur- 
goyne, ascended Lake Champlain and took possession 
of Mount Hope, thus cutting off the retreat by the 
way of Lake George ; and when General Frazer also 
began to erect batteries on Mount Defiance, the posi- 
tion of the American garrison became extremely dan- 
gerous. Accordingly General St. Clair, who was then 
in command, held a council of his officers and decided 
to order a retreat. At about two o'clock on the morn- 
ing of July Gth, the Americans reluctantly began to 
file out of the works. Contrary to orders, some 
person set fire to a house, the light of which enabled 
the British on Mount Defiance to discover the move- 
ments. The forces were then obliged to hasten their 



158 T I C O N D E 11 O G A . 

departure and march with some disorder. The bag- 
gage was nevertheless got off to Whitehall, while the 
most of the troojDS took the road to Castleton, being 
pursued by the British. Thus Ticonderoga, though 
in a somewhat dilapidated condition, passed once more 
into the hands of the English. General Schuyler, 
then in command of the northern department, did not 
order this act, as was reported ; while St. Clair himself 
was subsequently justified by an investigation. 

September 25, Colonel John Brown, the author of 
the original plan to capture Ticonderoga, acting under 
orders from General Lincoln, marched with five hun- 
dred men and surprised and captured the outworks of 
Ticonderoga, with two hundred batteaux, an armed 
sloop, two hundred and ninety-three prisoners, and five 
cannon. He also released one hundred American 
prisoners, and recaptured a continental flag. Yet he 
did not, as on his first visit, succeed in getting into 
the fort, and was ultimately obliged to give up the 
attempt. 

After the surrender of Burgoyne in 1777, the Fort 
was dismantled. In 1780 General Haldiman advanced 
with a few British troops and held the place. It was 
from this point that Major Carlton marched to attack 
Forts Edward and George, during the invasion of 
General John Johnson. 

After the Revolutionary "War closed, this structure, 
though built and maintained at an almost ftibulous 
cost, was allowed to fall into decay. It is now a heap 



T I C O N D E R O G A 



59 



of mouldering and picturesque ruins, where the histo- 
rian and antiquarian especially love to linger, dwelling 
in thought upon the olden times. Some localities and 
objects can. be identified, while others must be left to 
conjecture. Let us, therefore, in imagination, take 
a stroll over the ground. 

As we go up from the steamer's pier, we pass the 
old garrison well, and proceed on the same way taken 
by Arnold and Allen in 1775. But no drowsy senti- 
nel snaps his fuzee as we enter the broken gate. 

Indeed, we can 
hardly tell where 
the gateway was. 
Nevertheless, we 
clamber over the 
fallen masonry un- 
til we find our- 
selves in the mid- 
dle of the fort, 
and begin to look 
around us. Here, certainly, were the officers' barracks, 
where the high and massive walls now instantly threat- 
en to fall. There is the entrance to the so-called 
" bakery." A poor oven, but a worse powder maga- 
zine, if the latter use ever claimed it. You must make 
your way into its dim recesses, and settle the question 
for yourself, remembering that when Amherst captured 
the place, it had three ovens or bakeries, instead of one.* 




TUE BAKERY. 



(1) — Wilson's Orderly Book, p. 105. 



l6o TICONDEKOGA. 

The use of this open space we must certainly know. 
This is the parade : 

" The men at arms were mustered here : 
Here would the fretted war-horse bound, 
Starting to hear tlie trumpet's sound." 

Up yonder, perhaps, was 

"The Lady's Cliamber, whence 
With looks of lovely innocence 
Some heroine our fancy dresses 
In golden locks or raven tresses, 
And pearl embroidered silks and stuffs, 
And quaintly quitled sleeves and muffs, 
Looked forth to see retainers go, 
Or trembled at tlio assaulting foe." 

We will say that Madame De La Place rested there. 
And this hole, which is now choked with rubbish, 

" Was the Dungeon; deep and dark, 
Where the starved prisoner moaned in vain, 
Until Death lelt him, stiff and stark. 
Unconscious of the galling chain." 

At Crown Point the Jesuit Fathers had their Chapel 
and bell, and regular hours for j^rayer. It was un- 
doubtedly so here at Ticonderoga. We may rightly 
find an ecclesiastical corner, and with our poet say : 

" This was the Chapel : that the stair: 
Here, where all lies damp and bare. 
The fragrant thurible was swung, 
The silver lamp in beauty hung." 

There can be, however, no doubt about the kitchen, 
for all soldiers must eat, even if they do not pray or 
give thanks : 



TICONDEROGA. l6l 

" This was the Kitchen. Cold and blank 
The huge hearth yawns; and wide and high. 
The chimney shows the open sky." 

And thus we might go on at any length, and spend 
the entire day in recalling the memories of the past. 
But the stage, or the steamer, we may fancy, is waiting 
to take us back to the landing at Lake George, or 
carry us down Champlain. Yet before you leave, 
visit the south bastion looking towards Mount Defi- 
ance, where tradition says that a beautiful Indian 
maiden once threw herself down headlong, in order to 
escape the importunities of a French officer, whom 
she had refused to accept as her lover. The tradition 
may not be a very ancient one, notwithstanding the 
fact that " we read in rare books "^ of this occurrence ; 
yet the summer tourist, who does not ask for histor- 
ical authorities will not refuse a pretty embellishment 
of the local history. Besides, as all Indian localities 
can produce some legend of this kind, why should 
Ticonderoga fall behind the rest ? 

(1; — See Cook's Sketch of Ticonderoga. 



SCHROON LAKE AND THE ADIRONDACKS. 

CHAPTER X . 

No chieftain raises to the sky 
The gladness of his battle-cry. 

Staging — Fort William Henry Hotel — The Route to 
ScHROON — The Lake — The Road to Long Lake — 
The Lake System — The Mountains — Camp Life — 
Distances. 




AMBLING from point to point, we 
liave now entered upon times of 
peace, and in our trip to Scliroon 
and the Adirondacks, we shall have 
'~^ but little to say of the conflicts of former 
years. The new route to Schroon Lake and 
the Adirondack region, lies by the way of 
the head, or south end, of Lake George. 
The public conveyance is found in the coaches 
of the Glen's Falls, Lake George, and Chester Stage 
Company, whose lines are now in operation, summer 
and winter, furnishing an uninterrupted communica- 
tion with Schroon. 

The present points of departure are Fort Edward 
and Moreau, stations on the Rensselaer and Saratoga 
Railroad, only a short distance apart. The coaches 



THE ADIEONDACKS. 163 

from these two i^oints unite at Glen's Falls, situated 
about six miles on the way. From Glen's Falls to 
Schroon, the distance is forty-two miles, the road run- 
ning through a beautifully diversified country, whose 
signs of civilization gradually fade away, until they 
disappear in the mazes of the great wilderness of 
New York. 

The proposed railroad, connecting the Saratoga 
road with Glen's Falls, will eventually make the latter 
place the great starting-point for Schroon and the 
Adirondack region. 

In the opening chapter of this work, the route to 
Lake George has been briefly described ; and since 
the road to Schroon passes the same way, it will not 
be necessary to speak of it again. Yet the lover of 
the horrible may be interested in viewing one locality 
not already mentioned, known as " Blind Rock." This 
rock, now sunk almost out of sight, lies a few rods 
east of the plank road on the side of the hill, a little 
beyond Glen's Falls. Tradition tells us that it marks 
" the spot where the eyes of captives were put out," 
and where, in the barbarous days of the early settle- 
ment of the country, " the Indian children set to 
amusing themselves by torturing them."^ And if the 
visitor comes to Glen's Falls by the way of Fort 
Edward, he may not only view the site of that mem- 
orable colonial rallying-point, but may also get a 
glimpse of the grave of Jane McCrea, and the tree 

(1) — Historical Sketch, by the Rev. A. J, Fennel, p. 6. 



164 SCIIKOON LAKE AND 

under which she is said to have been murdered by the 
Indians in the year 1777. Of late years the whole 
subject has been brought under searching examination, 
and the circumstances have at least been shorn of a 
portion of their romance ; yet in all coming time this 
spot will possess a curious interest for the traveller. 

The first stopping-place, after leaving Glen's Falls, 
is at the French-Mountain post-office and telegraph 
station, where there is a tavern known as the Half- 
Way House, midway between Glen's Falls and Lake 
George. Here the coach usually delays a few min- 
utes ; and the tourist, if he has occasion to do so, can 
step across the road to the telegraph office, and inquire 
the price of stocks on Wall street, or drop a word to 
a friend anywhere in the United States ; or he may 
delay this act until he reaches Warrensburg, the 
terminus of the telegraph line. 

Anon Jehu mounts the box, cracks his whip, and 
we are off on the firm plank road, which here makes 
staging so comfortable. In succession we pass Wil- 
liams' Monument, Bloody Pond, Forts Gage and 
George ; until finally the head of Lake St. Sacrament 
comes in view, with " Fort William Henry " Hotel 
standing on the site of the ill-fated colonial stronghold 
which bore that name. No one will think of riding 
by without passing some time in viewing the various 
points of interest, such as the Magazine, the Garrison 
Well, the Old French Burying-Ground, and the ruins 
of Fort George. Near the Lake House is the spot 



THE ADIRONDACK S. 165 

where Montcalm opened the trenches and planted 
his guns to batter down the walls of Fort William 
Ilenry. 

The provisions made for travellers at Caldwell are 
ample. Built in the year 1855, and enlarged in 185G, 
Fort William Henry Hotel offers sufficient accommo- 
dation for three hundred and fifty or four hundred 
guests, whose comfort and convenience the proprietor 
has consulted by securing all those modern improve- 
ments and appliances found in first-class places of 
resort. 

The village of Caldwell itself is pleasant, while its 
air is always salubrious. On Sunday, the church- 
going bell invites the traveller to the house of worshij), 
and both the Episcoj)al and Presbyterian churches 
open wide their doors. The former church, being 
built of stone, is noticeable for its neatness ; and, with 
the little stone church at Bolton, (built chiefly by the 
exertions of a young lady,) it forms the only represen- 
tation of Fpiscopacy on the lake. 

Monday noon, let us say, we mount to the top of 
the coach, (remembering that particular seats cannot 
be secured in advance, and that possession is even 
more than nine points of the law,) and thus we roll 
out of the village, passing on the right the Lake 
House, and on the left several small hostelries and 
stores. 

The road to Warrensburg is somewhat wild and 
picturesque, and passes through dense forests of oak 



l66 SCIIIIOON LAKE AND 

and pine. At Warrensburg we strike the Schroon 
River, flowing on its way to the Hudson, of which it 
forms a branch. A neat stone church, of the early 
English style, and one or two elegant private resi- 
dences, here form the chief architectural adornments. 
This place is six miles from Lake George and about 
twenty miles from Moreau. 

A few miles beyond Warrensburg, to the west, is 
Crane's Mountain, about three thousand feet high, 
noted for the profile of Washington formed by its 
being thrown against the sky. Passing on, over a 
road cut out of the side of a deep ravine, through which 
a stream is seen choked by boulders, and yet struggling 
on its way, the next village is Chester, twelve miles 
from Warrensburg, a little beyond which the summit 
of Landon Hill is reached, with its fine views of the 
surrounding country. Descending into the valley of 
the Schroon, at about six miles from Chester, we reach 
Pottersville. From Pottersville to Schroon Lake is 
nine more. At both Chester and Pottersville, the 
traveller will find good houses of entertainment ; while 
at Schroon Lake a new and fine hotel has just been 
erected for the comfort of the constantly increasing 
throngs that now come to this charming place during 
the summer months. 

Schroon Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, nearly 
ten miles long, situated partly in Essex and partly in 
Warren County. Properly speaking, this lake is an 
enlargement of the north-east branch of the Hudson 



THE ADIRONDACKS. l6^ 

River. It stands much higher than Lake George, 
being no less than one thousand feet above tide-water. 
It contains but a single island, while the mountains 
around its border rise to the height of seven or eight 
hundred feet. 

There is some difference of opinion in regard to the 
origin and meaning of its name. Spoffard says, that 
" a northern Indian, a tolerable English scholar," 
derived it from Ska-ne-tah-ro-iuah-na, signifying the 
Largest Lake.^ French writes : " Some say Schroon 
is derived from an Adirondack word," which means 
" a child or daughter of the mountain."^ But a corres- 
pondent says that he once saw it stated somewhere, that 
the lake was discovered at an early day by several 
French officers from Crown Point, who were out 
hunting. They called it " Scaron," after the second 
wife^ of Louis XIV. This correspondent also adds 
that a few years ago, "a Sappho-like origin of the 
name " was devised from •' Scarona, a Squaw, who, 
like Winona and many others, had leaped over a 



(1) — Gaz., p. 472. (2) — Gaz., p. 304. 

(Z) — Francoise d'Aiibigne Maintenon was born in a prison, in 
Kiort, France, November 27, 1635. She became a Roman Catholic, 
and was on the point of enterin^^ a convent; but in 1651, after a 
week's deliberation, married the comic poet, Scarron, who was both 
a paralytic and a cripple. She became a widow, October 14, 1660, 
and was greatly distinguished for her beauty. Her rare wisdom and 
wit attracted the attention of Louis XIV., who, unable to persuade 
her to accept any less honorable relation, made her his wife. After 
the death of the king, in 1715, she retired to the Convent of St. Cyr, 
where she continued to pass her days in charity and devotion, dying 
April 15, 1719. 



1 68 S C II R O O N LAKE AND 

precipice into the lake" and was drowned. But Gov- 
ernor Tryou's map of 1779, lays down the lake with 
the name " Scaron." The map of 179G also shows 
this name. It is, therefore, not at all unreasonable 
to suppose that this lake, like Lake St. Sacrament, 
received its name from the French, who thus sought 
to perpetuate the memory of one of the most beau- 
tiful and distinguished women of those times. 

There is considerable of interest to be seen here. 
For instance, on the north border of Chester is a 
natural bridge, under which a stream passes to Schroon 
Lake. This stream, after falling into a basin, enters 
a passage in two branches under the arch, which is 
forty feet high and eighty wide. It was described 
(1796) as running " under a hill, the base of which 
is sixty or seventy yards in diameter, forming a most 
curious and beautiful arch in the rock as white as 
snow. The fury of the water and the roughness of 
the bottom, added to the terrific noise within, have 
hitherto prevented any person from passing through 
the chasm." 

The town called Schroon was formed from a 
part of Crown Point in 1804. The town of 
Minerva was taken from Schroon in 1817 ; and 
in 1840, the township still being considered too 
large, a part of it was re-annexed to Crown Point. 
The west and northwest portions are covered by the 
Schroon Mountains, and the northeast by the Kyad- 
derosseras range. Mount Pharaoh is the highest 



THE ADIKONDACKS. 169 

peak of the latter range, it being no less than three 
thousand five hundred feet above the tide. There are 
numerous other lofty peaks that well deserve mention, 
and -which well repay the tourist for climbing. Near 
Mount Pharaoh is a cluster of small but beautiful 
lakes, the principal of which takes its name from 
the great mountain by which it is overshadowed. 
Another of the lakes, near the centre of the group, is 
known by the name of Paradox Lake. The surface 
of this lake is so near the level of Schroon River, 
which forms its outlet, that during the spring floods 
the water flows into it, instead of flowing out. This 
whole region now made so accessible by the stage- 
coach, forms a charming place for a summer resort. 
But let us now turn our steps still further westward. 

In order to reach the Wilderness region, it is neces- 
sary to retrace our steps to Pottersville, or else, when 
we reach this point in approaching Schroon, to diverge 
at once towards Minerva, leaving the jaunt to Schroon 
to be performed at another time. 

The distance from Pottersville to Minerva, taking 
Olmsteadville on the way, is nine miles. Soon we 
enter the forest, and now, for a time, the bark shanty 
and occasional log house, alone tell of life. The road 
for a few miles is rough, but projected improvements 
will soon bring the traveller relief. The wild valley 
of the Boreas is erelong seen, and soon the rapid 
river itself is crossed. The Minerva road, at fifteen 
miles from that place, intersects the Carthage road. 



170 SCIIROON LAKE AND 

which runs through the wilderness east and west. 
Six miles from this point, and after crossing the Hud- 
son, the traveller finds satisfactory quarters at the 
house of Daniel Bissell. 

Thus far the road is, for the greater part, as good 
as the average of country roads, and continues such to 
the head of Long Lake, seventeen miles, near which, 
on the lake shore, is a thriving settlement, where 
good accommodations are found. Continuing thence, 
ten miles, and crossing the outlet of Raquette Lake, 
we come to a large house now open for visitors. We 
found that in passing on to Schroon Lake, we gradu- 
ally rose eight hundred feet above Lake George, and 
during this stage of the journey, there is another lift 
of between six and eight hundred feet, which lands 
us upon the central portion of the great plateau occu- 
pied by the Wilderness of New York. 

This region embraces a large portion of the counties 
of Warren, Hamilton, Essex, Clinton, Franklin, St. 
Lawrence, Lewis, and Herkimer. In the northern 
part of this tract are the Chateaugay woods. Contig- 
uous to these are the St. Regis woods, which join the 
Saranac Lakes, and Raquette Lake. Away towards 
the east are the Adirondack Mountains ; and on the 
south, Lake Pleasant and John Brown's tract. 

There are four distinct divisions in the streams and 
lakes : the Saranac Lakes flowing through their out- 
lets into Lake Champlain ; Raquette Lake and its con- 
fluents flowin<x into the St. Lawrence ; the head-waters 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 



171 



of Black, Moose, and Beaver Rivers emptying into 
Lake Ontario ; while the fourth finally unites in the 
Hudson and runs to the sea. This whole region is 
covered by a complete network of lakes, ponds, and 
streams, so that a large portion of the country may be 




RAQUETTE LAKE. 

traversed in boats. Yet in order to gain the fullest 
views of the scenery, it is necessary to travel more or 
less on land. 

The magnificent sheet of water known as Raquette 
Lake, is seventeen hundred and forty-five feet above 



172 SCIIROON LAKE AND 

tide, in the northern part of Hamilton county. It is 
the geographical centre of the wilderness, and from 
the plateau upon which it rests, the waters of the 
Hudson, Black, Moose, and Raquette rivers, rise 
and flow in their several directions. This is the 
centre of the lake region. Raquette Lake is the 
largest of the interior lakes, and has a coast-line of 
seventy-five miles, of wonderful irregularity, forming 
projecting points and deep bays, which afford variety 
in every direction. The reflecting jDOwer of its pure 
water is remarkable. 

To the east towers Blue Mountain, four thousand 
feet high, and directly at its base nestles that gem of 
the woods, whose charms are recognized by all — Blue 
Mountain Lake — the waters of which, after mingling 
with those of Eagle and Utowana Lakes, find their 
way through Marion River to Raquette Lake. 

To the southwest of the Raquette, lies the Moose 
River chain of lakes, numbered from one to eight, the 
eighth of which is separated from west inlet of Ra- 
quette Lake by a portage of only one mile. These 
lakes extend through part of Hamilton and Herkimer 
counties, and can be traversed by boat twenty miles 
to Arnold's, on the Moose River, through which these 
lakes flow into the Black River. From Arnold's to 
Booneville on the Utica Railroad, land travel must be 
resorted to on account of the impetuosity of the river. 
Space will not permit even a notice of the lakes and 
streams tributary to this particular water system, and 



THE ADIRONDACK S. 1 73 

we can only say that the ascent of some of them 
would lead to places where the foot of man has never 
trod. 

About four miles north of Raquette Lake, and 
accessible by the Carthage road, lies Beach Lake, 
noted not only for its beauty, but for preserving the 
name of the first hunter and trapper who made his 
home on Raquette Lake, at Indian Point. And it is 
worth while, perhaps, in this connection to state, that 
Matliew Beach, though possessing little book-learning, 
had, nevertheless, acquired a valuable kind of culture. 
He was a shrewd observer of character, and seldom 
erred in his judgment of men. He studied closely the 
habits of animals of the forest, and was a careful 
student of nature. In the autumn of 1861, while 
endeavoring (after a visit to his relations) to return to 
the forest home that he loved so well, Mr. Beach was 
overcome by the infirmities of age, and finally died in 
the month of March, 1862, at the " Lower Works," 
having arrived at the advanced age of more than 
eighty years. He will long be remembered by the 
earlier visitors as a good representative of the charac- 
ter revealed in Cooper's Leather-Stocking. 

Raquette River leaves the lake of the same name, 
and after a northerly course of half a mile, enters 
Forked Lake, a large, picturesque sheet of water, 
having tributary to it a number of smaller lakes and 
ponds. Continuing its course from this lake, the 
river, after a succession of rapids and plunging over 



174 S C II K O O N LAKE AND 

Buttermilk Falls, enters and passes through Long 
Lake. This lake has been much and justly admired 
for its beautiful scenery. It is sixteen miles long, 
and its greatest breadth does not exceed two miles. 
Around its border high mountains rise in all direc- 
tions. At its southern extremity is Owl's Head, with 
its craggy summit; and in the direction of its northern 
termination is Mount Seward. The river leaving 
Long Lake is broad and rapid, with but a single 
obstruction to boat-navigation for over thirty miles. 
At a distance of six miles are the High Falls, which 
are passed by a portage of one mile. About seven 
miles farther on, a diversion can be made through 
Stony Brook, a winding stream, and the ponds at its 
head, from which, over the Indian Carry of one mile, 
the upper of the three Saranac Lakes is reached. 
And here once more we launch our boat on a beau- 
tiful miniature inland sea, where every prospect serves 
to delight the eye. The upper Saranac is the largest 
of the three lakes which bear this name. It is consider- 
able longer and broader than Tupper Lake, and is, like 
the most of the lakes, beautifully studded with emerald 
isles. From this lake we may find our way to the St. 
Regis Lake ; and, after viewing the scenery, work back 
to near the point of departure and then enter Round 
Lake, so called with reference to its shape, and cross 
to the mouth of the Saranac River. This stream 
empties into the Lower Saranac and passes out again 
at its side half way down. If l)ound far home, leave 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I75 

the lake where the river leaves it, and, following its 
course, make your next stopping-place at Baker's Inn. 
From this point, if there is time, travel by land on 
foot, or otherwise, to Lake Placid. Descending this 
lovely lake, overshadowed by mighty White Face, 
proceed to climb its sides. This done, we go back to 
Baker's, and thence, descending the Saranac River, 
emerge from the w^oods by the favorite route of 
Keeseville, Port Kent, and Lake Champlain. Other- 
wise, the Plattsburgh route may be followed, leaving 
the river at Bloomingdale, going by earth road to 
Franklin Falls, from the falls by plank road to 
Ausable Forks, and thence by carriage across the 
country to the place of embarkation on Lake Cham- 
plain. But we must go back another way. 

Returning to Raquette River, at the point cf digres- 
sion, the tourist floats down the rapid current, around 
bends, over gravelly beds, along banks rich in varying 
scene and changing verdure, when all at once, by the 
stroke of an oar, and, as if by magic, the sight cf one 
of the finest sheets of water in the world bursts upon 
the view. The effect of this sudden transition can 
hardly be described. This body of water is Tupper 
Lake, with its islands, overhanging cliffs, and rocky 
shores. A singular feature, and one without parallel 
in all this region, is the rushing of Bay River over a 
rocky ledge directly into the lake at its head. 

Passing around these falls, and up a stream, which 
is sometimes so rapid as to enforce a portage of two 



176 SCHKOON LAKE AND 

miles, made along by the side of a succession of foam- 
ing cascades, Lake Clute will be reached. This is 
another large, beautiful, and picturesque body of water. 
Continuing through a series of small lakes, with occa- 
sional portages, the tourist again finds Beach and 
Raquette Lakes, having made a long and circuitous 
voyage. At Lake Clute an easterly course can be 
taken by way of Slim and Clear Ponds to Long 
Lake. When returning homewards we shall see 
that the west branch of the Hudson has its source in 
Ilendrick Spring, within three-fourths of a mile of 
the east bank of Long Lake. Formerly the spring 
divided its flow between the waters of the Raquette 
and Hudson, but the hand of man has destroyed 
this beautiful feature. Following down the Hudson 
through Round Pond, Catlin Lake, Long and Lily 
Ponds, Lakes Rich and Harris, each with their pecu- 
liar natural charms, a point is reached just above the 
Carthage Road Bridge, where the east and west 
branches of the Hudson unite to form the noble river, 
which constantly gathers strength as it advances on 
its romantic but resistless course tov/ards the distant 
sea. But Ave are to speak of the mountains. 

Remarkable as is the network of this great inland 
lake and river system, so inadequately described, a 
iield of interest, more wonderful if possible, is afforded 
in the lofty ranges, and in that august group of moun- 
tains, which testify of natures ancient, and mighty 
upheaval. Of the ranges, there are four: The Clin- 



THE ADIRONDACKS. I77 

ton, the Palmertown, the Luzerne, and the Chateau- 
gay. These are parallel, nearly equidistant, and, 
having a north-easterly course through the heart of the . 
Wilderness, terminate on the westerly shore of Lake 
Champlain. The Clinton range, the largest of these, 
is remarkable as furnishing at its most elevated posi- 
tion, a base for the lofty pinnacles known as the Adi- 
rondack group, the principal of which are Marcy, Mc- 
Intyre, McMartin, Seward, (surrounded by Cough- 
sa-ra-geh — Dismal Wilderness), and Whiteface ; the 
first being the highest in the State, having an 
elevation of five thousand four hundred and sixty- 
seven feet. At the point of intersection of the Mi- 
nerva with the Carthage road, the visitor takes an 
easterly course along the latter for about a mile, to 
the '• Lower Works," at the foot of Lake Sanford, 
whence a road of ten miles conducts to the Adirondack 
" Upper Works." From thence to Mount Marcy, or 
Tahawus, the Cloud-piercer, it is four miles, and three 
miles farther to the summit. The view to be had from 
here will repay the fatigue of the arduous ascent uji 
the rugged, precipitous steeps. The term group does 
not fully express what might be called the personal 
characteristics of these peaks, towering in their soli- 
tary grandeur. Close by, between Wall-Face and 
^Iclntyre, is the Indian or Adirondack Pass, at an 
elevation of twenty-eight hundi'ed feet above tide. 
This pass is a great chasm, one mile in length, pro- 
duced by an ancient convulsion, and whose massive 



178 SCIIROON LAKE AND 

walls rise perpendicularly over a thousand feet. Be- 
sides those named, are Santanoni, Dix Peak, the 
mountains about Tupper Lake, Moose River Moun- 
tains, Blue Mountain, Goodenow, and many others 
havino' peculiar features of interest. The Carthage 
road, as it approaches Long Lake, passes at the foot 
of Mount Goodenow, south from which is Mount 
Joseph, bearing evidence of once having been a vol- 
cano. On the very summit of this mountain is a lake 
of great depth, whose boundary on one side is removed 
from the edge of the mountain but by a step, and at 
no place is the water-shed of suiSicient extent to meet 
ordinary evaporation, while from the lake a stream 
of good size runs down the mountain side. Whence, 
then, comes the unfailing supply ? 

In this rapid survey of the mountains and lakes of 
the wilderness, the object has been not to undertake 
full descriptions which would require many chapters, 
but to give a general idea of the routes usually fol- 
lowed, and the principal objects of interest. 

It is hardly necessary to remind the traveller tliat 
in entering the wilderness region, he will, in a great 
measure, leave civilization behind him. Indeed, it is 
hard to believe that so wild a region can exist within 
the boundaries of the State. Of villages there are 
few, and the loghouse, the bark shanty, and the tav- 
ern and the hotel, arc the chief habitations that the 
interior region can boast. These, however, prove 
sufficient for the visitors who come here, and who 



THE ADIRONDACKS. 1 79 

take a peculiar satisfaction in overcoming the difficul- 
ties of living. Yet tlie foot-falls of a steadily march- 
ing civilization are heard with increasing distinctness 
every year, and the villages are i-apidly extending 
their borders. 

At Minerva is Champney's house. Eight miles be- 
yond is Cunningham's, formerly Hewitt's. On the Car- 
thage road, one mile east from intersection of Minerva 
road, is the Tahawus Ilouse, and one mile east of that 
is John Cheney's. Six miles west from the junction 
of the two roads is Daniel BisselFs, long and favorably 
known. At the settlement on Long Lake is the public 
house of C. II. Kellogg, and also the house of Mitchell 
Sabattis, extensively known as hunter and guide. 
Three miles farther, at head of the lake, is the pleas- 
antly situated farm-house of Mr. E. Palmer. At 
Eaquette Lake, the house kept by Mr. Cary. At the 
foot of High, or Raquette Falls, below Long Lake, is 
Johnson's. At head of Tupper Lake is the rustic 
cottage under the care of Mr. and Mrs. Graves. At 
the Saranac Lakes there are good houses v/hich are 
easily found, such as Baker's on the Saranac River, 
Martin's on the Saranac Lake, Paul Smith's Forest 
Resort on the little St. Regis, Yirgil Bartlett's, twelve 
miles fi'om Martin's, and numerous others. But, 
Reader, if you go to the Adirondacks, do not give 
yourself too much care about such things. Who- 
ever travels into the "Wilderness region of New 
York for the sake of the hotels had better remain 



l8o SCHROON LAKE AND 

ill New York. Rather, take your canoe and tent 
and trust to your hook and rifle. Here Izaak Walton 
would have gone into extacies, while, for ought we 
know, Nimrod, the mighty hunter, would have died 
for joy. 

The fishermen and the hunters are indeed in their 
element. For the one, the lakes and streams are 
stocked with splendid fish, while for the other, the 
woods abound with every variety of game, from the 
wild-cat up to the deer, the moose, the wolf, the pan- 
ther, and the bear. And as with beasts, so with birds. 
You may shoot the partridge or the loon, the eagle or 
the duck. 

Until within a few years, this region was not often 
visited by summer tourists. A trip to the Adiron- 
dacks was viewed as something attended by great 
danger and incredible hardship. But now every 
season brings a great throng of nature-loving people 
from our large towns and cities, to rough it in the 
rude shanty, to sleep under white tents that dot the 
wide expanse of living green, and to broil the appe- 
tizing venison steak, with their own hands, over the 
embers of the evening fire. 

On the border of this vast wilderness may always 
be found hunters and trajDpers who are ready to march 
away into the wildest recesses of the woods, and act 
the part of trusty leaders and guides. 

The following table of distances will be found 
reliable ; and by taking it as a guide, the tourist 



THE ADIK ONDACKS. l8l 

will be able to make the most of bis time, and give 
the due proportion to every part of the work he has 
before him. 

Lake George to "Warren sburg, G miles. 

"VVarrensburg to Chester, 12 " 

Chester to Pottersville, 6 " 

rotters;vil]c to Jlinerva, 9 " 

Minerva to inlerseclion of Carthage road, 15 " 

Thence to Daniel Bissell's, 6 " 

Bissell's to settlement on Long Lake, 14 " 

From Bissell's to the head of the Lake, 3 " 

Long Lake to Raquette Lake 10 " 

From Pottersville to Adirondack, 22 " 

" " Kewcomb, 28 •' 

" "Long Lake, 42 " 

" Koots 18 " 

" " Elizabethtown, 41 " 

" " Kecseville, 62 " 

" Plattsburgh, 76 " 

At present the Glen's Falls and Chester Company 
carry passengers for the Adirondacks no farther than 
Pottersville. But thus far, at least, we have some of 
the best staging in this country. The coaches are all 
of the first class, and have skilful and experienced 
di-ivers, who are attentive and courteous, and always 
ready to promote the traveller's comfort. 

From Pottersville a semi-weekly coach runs to 
Minerva ; and from thence, once every week, an open 
w^agon proceeds to Long Lake. 

We Vthh you a pleasant journey and a safe return. 



Appendix. 



A 



P P E N DI X. 



ACCOUNT OF BERNARD ROMANS. 

[ MSS. in Connecficut State Library. Revolutionary War, Vol. iii. 
p. 23. Furnished by Charles J. Iloadly, I'^sq., Librarian.] 

Colony of Connecticut to Bernard Eomans, Esq' U\ 
for monies advanced & for which he gave obligations, viz' : 

To ]/ Heman Allen going Express after Ethan 

Allen, 120 miles £2.1G. 

To p*^ Elisha Phelps p rec' on file ... 30. 0.— 

To p*^ expences 3 Persons from Ben^'" to Albany . . 9.06 
To p*^ Benjamin French for Pork 4 bh'^ ^ rec' " . 12. 0.— • 
To p*^ Gershom Hewit Expence over lake . . 1.10. — 
To p*^ Jn" Stevens Canaan, Expence ^ rec' . . 3.16. — 
To p-^ ditto d" (^ d» . . 2.16.— 

To p*^ George Palmer Esq"" for tlower cp d" . . 3. 1. 6 

To my Expences at Albany 7. G 

To ditto, on road to Still Water, Fort EcJAvard &= 9.— 

To ditto, at & near Fort Edward, getting men to-. 

gether . 16. 4 

To p*^ Abram Wing in part for Expences . . 9. — 

To d" Cash to John Stevens . . . .1. 8. — 

To d" horse shoeing 7/6 — Expen^ on road o/- . .12. 6 
To p*^ Butler for Expen' as Express to Stillwater .12. — 
To horse hire for ditto ..... .15. — 

To Expen' on road at mead'' runbridge & Fort 

Geo : 16 men 1.10. — 

To Expen^ on Lake £^ at Ticonderoga Landing . . 7. G 



IV 



APPENDIX. 



h 



To d° at Ticond* & on Lake returning . 

To p"^ enlisted men for their Exp'. — Peter Cas- 

wel p Rec' 4 

To Expe^ on road & at Saratoga, returning , 

To d° at Lanesborough d** 

To p*^ Mayhon Wagoner to Transport Prisoners 

from Lake to Lanesborough 
To p*^ Prisoners Expences at Lanesborough 
To fetching my horse rode by Jn° Brown, & 

keeping Sz° 

To advanced mony to one of Prisoners sick 
To p*^ for 10 Loaves Bread for Prisoners 
To lO"' Pork for ditto 

To p*^ two Waggoners from Lanesbor? to Noble- 
town 58 miles each — they found themselves 
To p"^ Exp' at Lanesbor" 5/- d° on Road 7/6 
To p-^ for Ton L-on to M' French, for Chains 
To Expences advanced on the Road as ^ Bill 
from Hartford to Bennington including a Gun 
bo^ for Cap' Mott 50/- for which he must be 
charged & also 35/3 Expence paid for Mott 
To Expences on the Road .... 



9. 4 



2.— 
. 9.— 

, 7.— 

12. G 
IG.IO 



1. 8.— 



.12.— 
. 7. 6 
. 5.— 

G. 0.— 

.12. 6 
8.10.— 



19. 8. 4 



I.IG.— 



£131.11.10 



SumA — C" 

By Cash rec'^ of Mess" Deane Leffingwell &" 

^pRec* 100. 0. 

By an order on Treasurer in full this acco' this ? 

3r'day May 1775 ^ 



31.11.10 



£131.11.10 



EiTors Excepted 

^ B Romans. 



APPENDIX. V. 

11. 

PETITION OF JOHX NORDBERG. 

[ From N. Y. Miscellaneous Papers, Vol. xxxi. p. 15. N. Y. Kcvolu- 
tionary Papers, I. p. 203. In OfDce of Secretary of State at Albany.] 

" The most iiespectable Gentlemen, 

Provincial Congress in Ni^av York. 

'' I beg leave to represent to tlic most respectable Con- 
gress this circumstance. 

" I am a native of Sweden, and have been persecuted for 
that, I have been against the French fiction there. 

" I have been in His Britanick Magesty's Service sinse 
January 1758. 

" I have been twice shot through my body here last war 
in America, & I am now 65 years old — reduced of age, 
Avounds & and gravels, which may be seen by Doctor Jones'* 
certificate. 

" 1773. I got permission in Jamaica to go to London 
where I petition to be an Invalid officer, but as a foreigner 
I could not enjoy a commission in England, or Ereland His 
Magisty was graciously pleased to give me the allowance 
for Fort George 7 shilling sterling per day, with liberty to 
live where I please in America, because the fort has heen 
abandoned this 8 year and only 2 men remain there for to 
assist any express going between New York and Canada. 
I arrived here in Kew York last year in September v/ith 
intention to live in New Y'ork : as I heard nothing els than 
disharmony amongst Gentlemen which was not* agreeable 
to my age. I resolved to go to Fort George and live there 
in a little Cottage as an Hermit, where I was very happy 
for G months. 

" The 1 2 of May last Mr. Romans came & took pos- 
session of Fort George, Mr. Romans behaved very genteel 
and civil to me. I told that I did not belong to the army 
and may be considered as a half pay officer invalid, and 
convinced him that I was pleagd with Gravell, Mr. Romans 



VI. APPENDIX. 

give nio his passport to go to New Lebanon for to recover 
my li(>alth, U he told nie that in i-egard to my age, I n^ay 
go wliere I please. 

" As I can't sell any bill for my subsistance, & I can't live 
upon Avind and weather, I therefore beg and implore the 
most respectable Congress permission to go to England, 
and I intend to go to my native country, I could have gone 
away secret so well as some others have done, but I will 
not upon any account do such a thing — I hope the most 
respectable will not do partially to refuse me, because major 
Etherington, Captain Brown, Captain Kelly which is in 
the army have been permitted to go to England, and it 
may happen they return hero again on actual Service, 
which old age & infirmities render me incapable of 

" As it is the custom among the Christian nations and 
the Turks, that they give subsistance to every Prisoner 
according to their liank should the most respectable Con- 
gress, have any claim upon me to be a prisoner here, I hope 
they will give me my subsistence from th 12 of May last, 
according to My Kank as Captain I implore the favor of 
the most respectable Congress answer. I have the honour 
to remain with great respect, 

" Gentlemen 

. " Your most obed' humble Servant 

"John Nordberg. 
"New York, decemb^ 1775." 



APPENDIX. Vll 

III. 

LAKE CHAMPLAI^. 

Lake Charaplaln was discovered and named by Samuel 
de Champlain, in 1G09. It appears that he had left the 
infant colony of Quebec for the purpose of exploring the 
interior ; and having advanced as far as possible with his 
boat on the Richelieu River, he left the boat, and, attended 
by only two of his followers, joined a party of Algonqui)i 
Indians, who were proceeding in their canoes to give battle 
to the Iroquois. July 2, they travelled on foot around the 
Chambly Rapids, which had obstructed the passage of his 
heavy boat, the Indians carrying their light canoes. Re- 
embarking above the rapids, they sailed on until they 
emerged upon the great lake to which he gave his name, 
and then bore away southward up the lake, and met the 
Iroquois between Ticonderoga and Crown Point. The 
night previous to the battle both parties spent the time use- 
ually devoted to sleep in preparing for the encounter. 
This consisted in singing and dancing, and in applying to 
each other all manner of abusive epithets, accompanied by 
declarations of what on the morrow they intended sev- 
erally to acchieve. Yet, as the Iroquois were unaccus 
tomed to fire-arms, when the day came they were soon 
put to rout. Champlain gives the following account of the 
fight. He says : 

" My companion and I were always concealed, for fear 
the enemy should see us, preparing our arms the best we 
could, being, however, separated, each being in one of the 
canoes belonging to the savage Montagners. After we 
were equipped with light armor, v/e each took an arquebus 



Vlll APPENDIX. 

and went ashore. I saw the enemy leave their barricade. 
There were about two hundred men of strong and robust 
appearance, who were coming slowly towards us, with a 
gravity and assurance that greatly pleased me, led on by 
three chiefs. Ours were marching in similar order, and they 
told me that those who bore the three lofty plumes were 
chiefs, and that there were but these three, who were to be 
recognized by these f)lumes, which were considerably larger 
than those of their companions, and that I must do all that 
I could to kill them. I promised to do what I could, and 
that I was very sorry that they could not clearly under- 
stand me, so as to give them the order and plan of attack- 
ing their enemies, as we should certainly defeat them all ; 
but there was no help for that ; that I was very glad to 
encourage them and to manifest my good will when we 
should be engaged. 

" The moment v/c landed they began to run about two 
hundred paces towards their enemies, who stood firm, and 
had not yet jDerceived my companions, who went into the 
bush with some savages. Our's commenced calling me in a 
loud voice, and making way for me, oiDcned in two, and 
and placed me at their head, marching about twenty paces 
in advance, until I was within thirty paces of the enemy. 
The moment they saw me, they halted, gazing at me and I 
at them. When I saw them preparing to shoot at us, I 
raised my arquebus, and aiming directly at one of the three 
chiefs, two of them fell to the ground by this shot, and one 
of their companions received a wound, of which he died 
afterwards. I had put four balls in my arquebus. Our's, 
on seeing a shot so favorable i'or them, set up such tremen- 
dous shouts that thunder could not have been heard ; and 
yet, there was no lack of arrows on both sides. The Iro- 



APPENDIX. IX 

quois were greatly astonished seeing two men killed so 
quickly, wlio were provided with arrow-jDroof armor woven 
of cotton thread and wood ; this frightened them very 
much. Whilst I was re-loading, one of my comj^anions in 
the bush fired a shot which so astonished them anew, seeing 
their chiefs were slain, that they lost courage, took to flight, 
and abandoned the field and their fort, hiding themselves 
in the depths of the forest, whither pursuing them, I killed 
some others. Our savages also killed several of them and 
took ten or twelve prisoners. The rest carried off the 
wounded. Fifteen or sixteen of ours were Avounded by 
arrows, but they were promptly cured." 

After this the party returned, and the savages amused 
themselves by torturing their prisoners, one of whom Cham- 
plain shot, in order to deliver him from his cruel torment- 
ors. This was, undoubtedly, the first time that a white 
man ever saw the lake. In course of years, as seen by the 
history of Lake George, this lake became a part of the 
great route between the Canadas and New York. 

As early as 1730, the French conceived the idea of 
founding a great political power on the shores of the lake, 
the capital of which should be CroAvn Point. Here they 
built a fort called Fort St. Frederic, and laid the founda- 
tions of an extensive settlement, of which many traces are 
still found by the antiquarian. Twenty-five years later, as 
the reader has already been informed, the fort was built at 
Ticonderoga. But in 1759 the French power on Lake 
Champlain was broken, and their plans and settlements 
were dissolved. 

There were but few events in the history of Lake Cham- 
plain during the llevolutionary struggle, that arc not 
detailed in the history of Lake George. The day after 



X APPENDIX. 

r 

the capture of Ticonderoga, the fortress at Crown Point, 
garrisoned by a dozen British troops, also surrendered, and 
within a short time Benedict Arnold captured some British 
craft that Avere unsuspectingly abroad on the lake. Yet 
during the Revolution there was but little severe fighting 
here. 

In the year 1814, Lake Champlain was made quite mem- 
orable in our naval annals by the victory of the American 
commander, Commodore Macdonough, over Commodore 
Downie. Macdonough 's force consisted of fourteen vessels, 
eighty-six guns, and eight hundred and eighty men ; while 
Downie had sixteen vessels, ninety-five guns, and one thou- 
sand men. 

The battle took place opposite Plattsburgh, on Sunday 
morning, September 7. Soon after daylight, the Amer- 
icans had intelligence of the approach of the British, and 
the fleet was prejDared for action. 

Before the fight commenced, an unusual scene was 
enacted on board the Flag-ship Saratoga. Assembling his 
crew on deck, prayers were read by Commodore Mac- 
donough, who fervently implored the Divine j^rotection, 
and the successful termination of the conflicts, all the Avhile 
the housetops on shore being covered by spectators, await- 
ing the issues of the day with the most painful anxiety. 

When the enemy, with flags and streamers flying, came 
?iround Cumberland Head, and arrived within range, Mac- 
donough sent a twenty-four pound shot the entire length 
of the deck of Downie's flag-ship, kilhng a number of men. 
The Americans then opened a general fire, which the Eng- 
lish did not return until they were able to do so with great 
eflect. At the first broadside of the English Flagship, 
the Confidence, a large number of the crew of the Flag- 



A r r E >r D I X . xi 

c^hip Saratoga -svcrc olthcr killed cr \\-oun(lcd. But the 
men rallied and gave a iDOAverful reply, the broadsides 
being exchanged with such rapidity that the vessels at 
times seemed all aflame. Twice the cry was raised that 
Commodore Macdonough was killed, and it seemed at 
one time as if it would be necessary to surrender ; yet by 
a skilful manoeuvre the fight was maintained until the 
British commander himself was killed, and his colors pulled 
down. 

The other vessels of the fleet were managed with equal 
gallantry, and the British were all obliged to surrender, 
with the exception of the small gun-boats, which, at the end 
of two hours and a half, escaped from the harbor with the 
aid of their sweeps. 

While this battle was going on, the British were active 
upon the land, fourteen thousand men under General 
Provost attacking an unequal force of Americans under 
General Macomb. The result of the contest on the lake, 
however, disheartened Provost, who finally beat a retreat. 

Thus ended a memorable struggle, rendered all the more 
interesting by the place where it occurred, which was not, 
like most naval engagements, on the dark, blue, boundless 
sea, but on this inland lake, bordered by hamlets, villages, 
and farms, and environed on all side by green hills, mea- 
dows, and distant mountains. 

The people of Ncav York and Vermont residing on the 
shores of the lake, thus found themselves at liberty to 
pursue their respective avocations until the war Avith 
England closed. 

Lake Champlain is one hundred and fifty miles long, and 
varies greatly in width. Some parts being only a fourth 
of a mile Avide, and others stretchinir out to a breadth of 



Xll APPENDIX. 

tliirteen. It covers an area of more than five hundred 
square miles. Its water, unhkc that of Lake George, is 
more or less discolored, especially on approaching the 
southern terminus, or South Bay, where the y/ater becomes 
muddy. Here, too, the channel grows narrow, and at 
times the steamer glides along within a few feet of over- 
hanging clifFs which lie on the east side ; while on the west 
arc the so-called " Drowned Lands,'' consisting of swamp 
and marsh. It was by this route that Burgoyne brought 
the bulk of his army in 1777. 

Towards the north, the scene constantly improves ; yet, 
nevertheless, we miss the sweetness and beauty of Lake 
George. We occasionally fall in witli odd-looking craft. 
The number of vessels engaged in the navigation of the 
lake is not large, though their extremely picturesque char- 
acter renders them objects of interest. Modeled often afier 
the pattern of the Ark, or at least the Chinese junk, these 
clumsy craft — half French and half American, and rang- 
ing from thirty to a hundred tons, now sloop nov/ schooner 
rigged, and now carrying the piratical lattcen sail — go 
creeping at snail-pace from port to port all the summer, 
the domestic stove-pipe on the quarter-deck ever sending 
lip its curling cloud-wreaths, and proclaiming the presence 
of the " skipper's " family, who, like himself, have a roving 
commission for the season, and no homestead, except that 
adbrded by the surface of Champlain. We may also see 
rafts of canal boats from the ports of New Jersey that have 
come up the Hudson, reaching this lake by the Champlain 
Canal, on their way to Montreal. 

In order to see every part of the Lake, the tourist must 
embark at Whitehall, where the steamers leave daily on 
the arrival of trains from Albany and New York, and 



APPENDIX. Xlll 

proceed down the lake. After passing tbrougli wliat is 
known as tlie South Bay, and passing Ticonderoga, where 
the steamer always makes a landing, the lake begins to 
widen, affording a broad expanse of water, dotted here 
and there with islands ; while in course of time the 
mountains rise in the distance on either hand; Camel's 
Hump and Mansfield Mountain looming up towards the 
east, and the cloud-splitting Adirondacks lying with 
especial boldness against the western sky. 

Among the points touched on the lake, in addition to those 
already mentioned, are Chimney Point, opposite Crown 
Point, so called from the remains of French masonry ; Port 
Henry a mile and a half north of Crown Point, on the 
same side ; "West Port, sixteen miles further on, lying at 
the east side ; Basin Harbor, and Fort Cassin ; the former 
five, and the latter eight miles from West Port. Cassin 
Harbor is named after Lieutenant Cassin, who, in 1814, 
defeated the British In their attempt to destroy the Amer- 
ican fleet. Split Rock, on the west shore, near which is 
the lighthouse, forms the terminus of one of the ranges of 
the Adirondacks. Here a part of the mountain is split off, 
and separated from it by a chasm twelve feet wide, forming 
a very remarkable feature. Seventy miles from Whitehall, 
on the east side, is the city of Burlington, the seat of the 
University of Vermont. Port Kent, a small village, lies on 
the opposite side of the lake, which is now ten miles wide, 
and In the distance the Adirondacks appear. Port Kent Is a 
point from which these mountains may be reached. At 
this place the tourist will feel repaid by delaying to visit 
the Falls and the Walled Rocks of the Ausable River, 
which, though comparatively unknown, afford some of the 
wildest and most impressive scenes to be found in the 



XIV ArrENDIX. 

country. Everything may be seen in the course of a day. 
The next point of interest is Port Jackson, on the west 
shore, with Valcour Island opposite. Near this point, in 
177G, Arnold was severely defeated by Captain Pringle, 
who commanded the British. On the same side is Platts- 
burgh, situated one hundred miles from Whitehall. Twen- 
ty-five miles further on, at Rouse's Point, we pass the 
American lines and enter the dominion of the Queen, 
where we at once begin to realize that we are in a foreign 
country. Tliis is indicated by an occasional soldier in the 
Queen's uniform, and by the constantly increasing number 
of French Canadians of the lower classes, who, to their 
untidy aspect, add the equally poor attraction of their 
wretched patois. Here, also, the custom-house officials pay 
their respects to the traveller's baggage, and ply the ques- 
tion, " Anything dut'able ? " The tourist may here go on 
twenty-rthree miles by water, or take train for Ogdensburg 
and Montreal. 



MA^P OF LAI 




Diamond Island. 
The Threa Sisters 
Long Island, 
The Three Brothers, 
llechise Island. 
Dome Island. 
Green Lsland. 
Hog Island. 
Fourteen-Mile Island. 
The Narrows. 
Floating Battery Islands 
Vicar's Island. 
. Harbor Island. 
Odell's Island. 
Friends" Islands. 
Mutton, or Prisoner's Island. 
Clay Island. 



Length of Lake 

Greatest Width • • 

<;reatest Depth, (.-urvey of 17o5) 
Elevation above the Sea 



LE OEOROE, 




Site of Fort William Hrjry and Hotel. 
Trout Pavilion, 
Bolton. 

Tongue Mountain, 
i^helving Rock 
Black Mountain. 
Sabbath Day Point 
North West, or Gauasoake Bay. 
Bosom Bay. 
Hague. 

Friends' Point. 
Anthony's .No53. 
Ticonderoga. 
Buck Mountain. 
Rogers' Slide. 
Peak of French ilountian 
- Montcalm's Intrenchmeuts— Campaign 
of 1757. 



about 34 Miles. 
4 " 
84 feet. 
240 " 



(R. 






l^^i 



